Discovered why my 1031 clatters...

Keith_J

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Schertz TX
I thought it was because it had so few miles (9009 when purchased in 2012, 14250 now). I just noticed the wiring for the governor install is WRONG!!! This was done at Able Body Manufacturing or where the US Army had the work body and generator installed.

In stock configuration, the cold start advance and high idle receive power though a green wire that comes from the cold start switch which receives power from the fuse block. But in my 1031, there is the add on wiring that comes from the transfer case neutral switch which is fed from the relay on the governor control. This is wrong, the add on wire should go to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injector pump. The intended purpose is to shut the engine down if the transfer case is not in neutral when the governor is activated.

Anyhow, this incorrect wiring is BYPASSING the cold idle/cold advance switch, always supplying 12 volts to the cold idle/advance. This is causing the engine to clatter.

I am going to cut the wire and see if this reduces warm engine clatter. Also, I will adjust the cold idle plunger to specification. It was set too low so the engine would idle at one speed only.
 

Keith_J

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Location
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Ok, THAT was exciting. Corrected that problem, then when testing to adjust idle speed, the starter HANGS. As in STUCK ON STARTER RUNNING WITHOUT KEY!!! Yes, I did the Doghead conversion so I pulled that. STILL CRANKING WITHOUT STARTER RELAY!!! Before the batteries died, I managed to disconnect them.

Going over everything, no faults found. Relay works, starter solenoid works, no burned fusible links, no blown fuses. Starts up fine now. Must have been the Bendix drive solenoid as there is a latching coil and movement coil. Probably need to remove and clean it, old style 27MT direct drive.

Oh well, good thing I have Timo247 as my helper/step son. If he doesn't have a job after school, he will pull that beast. I showed him how to do it, now he can return the favor.
 
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