Dist. & plugs

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dodjh

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On a 4cyl. Hurricane engine, I need to check location and routing of the plug wires on the distributor and engine.

Been looking for 30mins. and can't find a diagram or if CW or CCW movement on a '53-M38A1..Thanks
 

NDT

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Look in the technical manual forum under Korean War era, use the M38 manuals, ignition system same as A1.
 

exhogflyer

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Rotor in distributor turns CCW. Bring engine to TDC by crank mark, that is #1 cyclinder. firing order is 1-3-4-2. #1 is front cylinder, rearmost is #4
 

clinto

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And the distributor shaft can only slide into the oil pump shaft one way- the slot is offset. And people frequently forget to "time" the oil pump to the cam so the slot will be where you expect it.

20160425_170127.jpg20160425_170143.jpg
 

dodjh

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I replaced point and condenser and after setting #1 plug on TDC, on the distributor the the rotor button was pointing at the #4 plug position.After discovering that, I set up a temporary fuel supply but engine still wont start. What should I do? RSR, coil and ignition switch are all new and working properly.

Mine is on a 12 Volt system. When replacing points and condenser, I rotated rotor cam to high lobe position with points open and swapped in the new points and condenser.

How do I need to make sure rotor is pointing to #1 plug on distributor?
 

NDT

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Well it should come as no surprise that it wouldn’t start with #1 at tdc and the spark occurring at #4. Easiest is just change the plug wires to match the distributor, more difficult is to properly time the oil pump to the distributor, I would only do that if you are using stock shielded ignition wires and want everything to look right.
 

exhogflyer

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Remove plug on #1 cylinder, slowly turn it over with your thumb in the hole. Make sure it's actually on TDC for #1 not 180 degrees out ( would be on #4 then). Air will blow out your finger if you're actually on #1.
 

dodjh

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Thanks exhogflyer for your post, Today I checked #1 and every time the air blew, I glanced at the rotor position it was pointing toward #4 plug post. Also checked it numerous times in the last several days but arranging the plug wire accordingly the Jeep still would not start.

Received a post from NDT this morning about placing #1 wire where the rotor was pointing after TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder. I placed them CCW 1-3-4-2...the engine made it's first sign of trying to start. Two more tries and she fired right up. Starts every time now, haven't done a test drive yet because I still have some wires to button up before placing the panel back in position.

What a relief...Thanks to everyone who helped me achieve this. Charles
 
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Saberr

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Awesome to hear that simple fix worked, i have to admit, i probably wouldn't of have thought of just moving the wires. Do suggest though, when you do messing with your pump or distributor again, to time the pump correctly. That way it will match manual and no one else will get confused in future. It only takes about 10-15 min to time the pump, not hard.
 

clinto

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clinto posted about doing that...might need to do that when all of the current work is completed. Thanks for your post.
And remember, on these you'll have to re-prime the oil pump after re-indexing it. Pack it with grease.
 

Saberr

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I personally like to pack with Vaseline, its light weight, doesn't drip everywhere and returns back to oil when hot oil mixes.
 

dodjh

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I have a jar that has been here forever...sounds like a good way to get some use out of it,

especially if it breaks down and is harmless. Thanks!
 
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exhogflyer

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And remember, on these you'll have to re-prime the oil pump after re-indexing it. Pack it with grease.
Another way to do that is simply overfill the crankcase so oil is at pump level. Start engine and as soon as you have oil pressure, shut it off and drain excess.
 

dodjh

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Okay, might go that route, one thing that happened in all of this was the oil gauge ceramic pieces separated in the gauge, so have to pick a new one up. The needle doesn't

have room to swing due to the pieces.
 
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