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Doghead starter relay is must if you get new starter

als804

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kimcheon, ROK
Hello
I had seen many writing about doghead style relay mod. But I didn’t know the reason. But 3 days ago i got the reason. The reason is preventing from destroying the starter. Omg. Yes my new 28mt starter was FUBAR after a day from installing it.
My 27MT starter solenoid is not much- more consuming many wattages than 28MT starter solenoid needs. So contacts points of the relay were welded by heat then starter was not stopped I didn’t know during driving. When i stopped a car i found the fired-up.

conclusion: if you install new starter doghead style relay starter is must to go. Otherwise your starter may be burned up.

question :is it enough for burned starter to be repaired by replacing new solenoid? ( bcz when i connected my burned starter the motor can revolve)

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2FD7FC59-1EB4-41BF-BBE0-6AF210C7F709.jpegEE512786-EBD7-413B-8B83-68B9034EF6AA.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Curtisje

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Or just replace the failed 35 year old relay with a new one for $30. Eitherway I hope you fixed your problem and don't burn up anymore starters.

It sucks when this happens. If it were me I would take it to a pro and have him go back through it to be sure.
 

dougco1

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Or just replace the failed 35 year old relay with a new one for $30. Eitherway I hope you fixed your problem and don't burn up anymore starters.

It sucks when this happens. If it were me I would take it to a pro and have him go back through it to be sure.
I agree with Curtisje.
Fix it by replacing the oem relay. Keep in mind; Any and all relays will fail and weld themselves if you have weak or undercharged batteries or low voltage. Other causes; If your starter is drawing to many amps or your truck has starting/running issues and you have to keep cranking the starter for extended periods to get it to start. A well maintained CUCV needs all mechanical aspects to be working together as "one system". Diesels need to crank quick and fast when starting. If they don't start in a few seconds then there is something wrong and you are stressing your entire system. They are not like the old gas engines, keep cranking till it starts.
I would never cut out original wiring & plugs just to install an off the shelf relay.
 

cucvrus

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Amperage is the KILLER. Load test all batteries. Low Amperage Batteries are the problem. Voltage is a minor part of the issue. Good Luck. Fix things as they fail. No need to redesign the system. Besides I don't want all them open positive leads under a completely steel negative dash. I seen a quarter burn thru a CUCV dash that fell on a snow plow relay that was put in place of the stock relay. It grounded out and melted its way thru the steel. Nice spark show at dark. I had no idea what was happening at the time.
 

als804

Member
89
66
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Location
kimcheon, ROK
I agree with Curtisje.
Fix it by replacing the oem relay. Keep in mind; Any and all relays will fail and weld themselves if you have weak or undercharged batteries or low voltage. Other causes; If your starter is drawing to many amps or your truck has starting/running issues and you have to keep cranking the starter for extended periods to get it to start. A well maintained CUCV needs all mechanical aspects to be working together as "one system". Diesels need to crank quick and fast when starting. If they don't start in a few seconds then there is something wrong and you are stressing your entire system. They are not like the old gas engines, keep cranking till it starts.
I would never cut out original wiring & plugs just to install an off the shelf relay.
Actually my CUCV can be started within less 1 second cranking. I guess The reason was much stronger 28MT (6KW by spec. ) because my old 27mt starter was slow but enough. And new 28MT is super strong like machinegun’s shooting. Actually it also sounds like a machinegun
 
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als804

Member
89
66
18
Location
kimcheon, ROK
Amperage is the KILLER. Load test all batteries. Low Amperage Batteries are the problem. Voltage is a minor part of the issue. Good Luck. Fix things as they fail. No need to redesign the system. Besides I don't want all them open positive leads under a completely steel negative dash. I seen a quarter burn thru a CUCV dash that fell on a snow plow relay that was put in place of the stock relay. It grounded out and melted its way thru the steel. Nice spark show at dark. I had no idea what was happening at the time.
Thanks my redesigned starter relay is already grounded with original ground wire which is hard to be seens in the picture but behind of the relay.

in my opinion, a weak battery can discharge weakly than a good battery. So more difficult for contact points to be welded with a weak battery. Actually a even very weak battery have enough current drawing for an original starter relay.( ~less than 1A)
 
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doghead

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The debate of this topic reminds me of the current political issues between the dems,, and the republicans.

To each their own.

Simply reading the replies, you can tell who understands things and who does not.

’merica
 

als804

Member
89
66
18
Location
kimcheon, ROK
The debate of this topic reminds me of the current political issues between the dems,, and the republicans.

To each their own.

Simply reading the replies, you can tell who understands things and who does not.

’merica
in my experience,
Relay contact poInts can be weleded

1. When using weak battery for energizing relay, the contact points repeatedly vibrate & spark and make heat . Finally could be welded.

2. When load’s current is high for contact points in relay, that contact area is too small means high resistance. This high resistance result in making heat.

3. When surge current is super super high for contact points As soon as relay is energized the contact point can be welded immediately like spot welding.


I guess my case is 3, because my car was started within 1 second with new 28mt (24v) starter installed a day ago.

Factory OEM starter relay is too small for 28MT having powerful solenoid
 
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