Droop screw doesn't want to turn

[RaggedyMan]

Do I just need to use my man-hands or is that screw suppose to turn somewhat easily? I used right much pressure to try to turn it either way but I didn't know if I'd break a zizwheel or a kanibling pin or some such thing inside there so I left it alone. It runs better up hills since I turned up the fuel, temps and pressures nicely below max. On my test route there is a curvy little road that requires throttling up and down, it smokes like **** while casually cruising it.

 

[jbayer]

Do I just need to use my man-hands or is that screw suppose to turn somewhat easily? I used right much pressure to try to turn it either way but I didn't know if I'd break a zizwheel or a kanibling pin or some such thing inside there so I left it alone. It runs better up hills since I turned up the fuel, temps and pressures nicely below max. On my test route there is a curvy little road that requires throttling up and down, it smokes like **** while casually cruising it.

YOU DO NOT TURN THE SCREW. You will break a zizwheel or a kanibling pin or some such thing inside there.
Please search turn up fuel.

 

[RaggedyMan]

It's suppose to say DROOP screw. I'll try to see how to edit it

 

[jbayer]

Oh, I thought you were talking about main fuel screw.
Did you look at the LDS trouble shooting manual?
Link: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...oting-Manual&p=1460149&viewfull=1#post1460149
As I recall it was not too hard to turn mine.

 

[RaggedyMan]

I've been looking at manuals and searching posts for days and found everything I was looking for. I finally bumped up the fuel, tested & tested some more, checked and rechecked the numbers and am real happy with the results. Nothing to aggressive and I can get up long grades without holding everybody up behind me and more importantly with less than 1100* temps. That smoke while leisure cruising though.....

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

I've been looking at manuals and searching posts for days and found everything I was looking for. I finally bumped up the fuel, tested & tested some more, checked and rechecked the numbers and am real happy with the results. Nothing to aggressive and I can get up long grades without holding everybody up behind me and more importantly with less than 1100* temps. That smoke while leisure cruising though.....

There are some other things that may be contributing to your smoke...
If you have an LDS, it's just flat-out going to smoke more than an LDT. If yours isn't an LDS;
Have you washed out your air filter lately? Even though it may look clean, you might be surprised at how much filth will rinse out, rinse, after rinse, after rinse...
Have you had your injectors serviced lately? If so, are they one-hole type? seems like one-holers dump more fuel into an LDT than it can use efficiently at low rpms.
Are your valves well adjusted?
As for the droop screw, when I got my truck my droop screw was missing. Had to put a replacement in. It does have a fair amount of resistance when adjusting, even without loctite or such. Don't know if the threads are intentionally machined a bit tight or what, but mine is stiff enough that it certainly won't vibrate loose.

 

[RaggedyMan]

It's an LDT. Only things I've done is change the fuel filters and the air filter is pretty recent. Some of the other things you mention are going to be new to me but I ain't scared to get into it. The only place I see oil where it doesn't belong is around the turbo. I'm going to switch it out with the D that was originally on the truck and see what happens and rebuild the C while I have it out.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

It's an LDT. Only things I've done is change the fuel filters and the air filter is pretty recent. Some of the other things you mention are going to be new to me but I ain't scared to get into it. The only place I see oil where it doesn't belong is around the turbo. I'm going to switch it out with the D that was originally on the truck and see what happens and rebuild the C while I have it out.

My air filter was supposedly new 15 months before I took delivery of my truck, and it still looked quite clean. But, it took about 10-12 5 gal. buckets of dawn and warm water before it stopped turning the water so brown/green that you couldn't see the bottom of the bucket through the water... nasty.

Going after the leaky turbo is a good plan. If it's leaking oil into the intake side, it can cause more smoke (and possibly a runaway if it gets bad enough). If you've never taken one apart before, you'll probably be amazed at how dirt-simple they are.

I really recommend every deuce owner get familiar with tuning their own injectors too. Whether shim, or screw-type, they're really easy to clean and adjust, 2-hole tips, part #12354295, are still available from www.easternsurplus.net for $15 ea.*, and a new pop-tester can be had for only $100 on that big "E" auction site. * the biggest reduction I've had in smoke at lower rpm came when I changed from one-hole to two hole injector nozzles.

And, of course, while the injectors are out is a perfect time to adjust the valves too!

 

[RaggedyMan]

I agree on all counts. Got off track a little on that dang droop screw though. Still would like to know what's going on with that so I can adjust if needed.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

I agree on all counts. Got off track a little on that dang droop screw though. Still would like to know what's going on with that so I can adjust if needed.

We're talking about the allen-head set-screw, behind the allen-head plug, right? Have you had the top/cover off, and checked visually to make sure someone hasn't put a lock-nut on it or something? Just trying to imagine what would bind it.

 

[RaggedyMan]

We're talking about the allen-head set-screw, behind the allen-head plug, right? Have you had the top/cover off, and checked visually to make sure someone hasn't put a lock-nut on it or something? Just trying to imagine what would bind it.

If it was just the cover I would have popped it off and looked but the FDC is still on there (it is disconnected). I haven't researched to see about lifting it off w/o running into other stuff, I didn't want to just blindly start pulling it off.

 

[Floridianson]

If it was just the cover I would have popped it off and looked but the FDC is still on there (it is disconnected). I haven't researched to see about lifting it off w/o running into other stuff, I didn't want to just blindly start pulling it off.

If your sure your getting the Allen head into the droop screw through the end of the IP then yea it might be a little tight. Have you done you main first? The droop is very touchy so a little goes a long way. Clockwise lowers the fuel.

 

[RaggedyMan]

If your sure your getting the Allen head into the droop screw through the end of the IP then yea it might be a little tight.

Thanks Floridianson, that's what I was wanting to hear. Makes me feel better but we'll see if that's the case. Yes, I've set the main fuel adjustment where I want it but before I do any more adjusting I'm going to go ahead and rebuild the turbo since I've got to take it most of the way down to fix the leak I can see on the outside.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea you want everything correct and the pyro plus tune to your location. You might be able to keep the main where you have great performance but you don't want to lower the droop to much. If you have a boost gage would be nice and see how much you can drop the droop without loosing main. I might start with 1/4 clockwise and see if it cleans up some of the lower rpm smoke. You will most likely still have some black on take off or blipping the throttle but as long as it clears when you up around full throttle not under load. Under load she is going heat up faster so watch the pyro and tune to save fuel if your going to use it to haul loads.
Myself I when I tweek the main I don't worry about the droop as I drive it like I stole it.

Now it has been tried before but I think the spring was put back under the plunger /piston FDC like it came. What he had was adjustable fuel on the fly but if I remember he had to push the cable knob in for more fuel. If you could your FDC is bypassed so you drill a hole and tap the top of the FDC plate. Figure a way to hook the cable to the FDC piston. Using a adjustable cable slack adjuster fitting at the FDC top plate and a push pull cable into the cab. Now if you reverse the FDC piston spring when you pull it the cable it would increase fuel lifting the piston and when pushed back in it would reduce it. You would need a locking type of push pull cable of some sorts but it has been done.

 

[Floridianson]

Had to add this because you got me thinking and that is new to me. It's been 10 years since I was playing with the Deuce's IP systems. Sorry stepped up to the big boys. If I remember your FDC is bypassed so the FDC piston is no longer moving with the IP fuel pressure changing from idle 30 psi to high idle 60 psi. I don't think after adjusting the main fuel the droop will just decrease the main fuel so leave it alone. Now as for the adjustable FDC wedge plate I think it could be done with some thinking and more thinking but that would be real cool.

 

[RaggedyMan]

Some of the smoke could have been coming from here I suppose.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

Some of the smoke could have been coming from here I suppose.




View attachment 735706View attachment 735705View attachment 735703View attachment 735704

Time to take advantage of wsucougarx's thread here; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?75970-Turbo-Rebuild-3LJ-319-(Whistler)

 

[RaggedyMan]

I read and re-read that post and you know what? I failed to mark either housing for alignment when I put it back together. Going to take a little longer getting those 3 pieces in just the right position.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

I read and re-read that post and you know what? I failed to mark either housing for alignment when I put it back together. Going to take a little longer getting those 3 pieces in just the right position.

DOH!... that sounds like something I'd do!