MrFilson
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Has anyone added an extra tank to the other side of the truck? Does anyone know of one for sale? Can you foresee and problems?
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Dual Tanks
- Thread starter MrFilson
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grounded
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http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attach...lly-media-thread-2009-02-21-11-53-17_0009.jpg
do a search for "diablo build" it has dual tanks.
i plan on putting duals on mine soon. and no there should not be any reason to have problems
do a search for "diablo build" it has dual tanks.
i plan on putting duals on mine soon. and no there should not be any reason to have problems
Sumoman
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Like anything else I would check auction sites, more then likely you could find what you want
gimpyrobb
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Someone here will have some. Boatcarpenter added some extra tanks. Might want to search for "extra tanks" or "air tanks" to find his thread. Good write up with pics.
Filson manufacturing?
Filson manufacturing?
gimpyrobb
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Sephirothq
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Are you referring to fuel tanks or air tanks?
rmgill
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I would assume Fuel Tanks. There's 2 air tanks in the middle of the truck. The syntax of the sentence above seems to indicate fuel.
Proceeding on that assumption, I'll chime in that I have in fact, added a 2nd fuel tank to the left side of my Truck.
You have two basic ways of doing it assuming you go with a deuce tank mounted on fuel tank hangers per the usual method on the left side. You have to loose the spare tire mount and pioneer rack of course so figure on putting those in the bed of the truck.
Method A. Fill the right side tank from the left side tank with a transfer pump or usual in tank pump.
Method B. Switch between the left and right side tanks with valves and electrical controls.
Challenges:
1. You need to provide power to another lift pump and control it manually
2. You need to provide for switching between pumps OR control the filling of the right tank from the left tank (fuel transfer method).
3. You can either use a single fuel level indicator OR switch with a DPDT switch between left and right.
A. The way I did mine was mount the tank as usual with grade 8 hardware (fine thread) and pretty much match the way the right side tank is mounted.
- be careful when drilling the holes that you do NOT cut air or power lines on the inside of the frame rail. That would be messy and hard to fix.
B. Add a 2nd fuel gauge to the cab.
- run wires as usual to a additional splitter for power AND the signal line to the tank area.
C. Added a single pole double throw switch to the dash in a place you can reach. That runs to an aluminum project box mounted above the right side fuel tank to provide power to a relay. The relay switches the power from the right side tank and shunts it to the left side tank for powering the fuel lift pump. I wanted to do this in such a way that required the least amount of cutting of the existing harness as possible (little to none). Make a mistake cutting the wire harness and you could spend weeks making it right.
D. Snag a 6 port three position (center is off) fuel valve from a 5 ton. I got mine from Memphis Equipment. This gets mounted in the usual place just in front or behind the parking brake control. I put mine behind so it was easier to reach while running down the road.
E. Run brass fuel lines to the new tank and use rubber hoses to make connections from the fuel lines to the fuel valves. You will have to make a modification to the existing fuel system here BUT I seem to recall that there was a union on the right side frame rail which prevented the need to actually cut the fuel line. Just remove the old line from the right side tank and run it direct to the left side tank. Obviously the output of the fuel valve runs to the right side frame rail and joins up to the hard line going to the primary fuel filter.
-Use double flare tube tools for the fuel line. It can be fiddly but once done right leaves you with some trouble free tubing. Finding the tubing fittings that match is tricky but do it right and it can look like it was designed that way.
-Remember, the fuel lines have a supply AND return. You have to switch that as well or else you'll over fill the other tank and leave a trail of diesel behind you running via the vent tube.
F. Find a longer fuel tank sized solid mudguard from the right side of a donor deuce and place it on the left side so your left side solid mudguard extends to the bottom of the tank to protect it from stones thrown by the front left tire set.
Proceeding on that assumption, I'll chime in that I have in fact, added a 2nd fuel tank to the left side of my Truck.
You have two basic ways of doing it assuming you go with a deuce tank mounted on fuel tank hangers per the usual method on the left side. You have to loose the spare tire mount and pioneer rack of course so figure on putting those in the bed of the truck.
Method A. Fill the right side tank from the left side tank with a transfer pump or usual in tank pump.
Method B. Switch between the left and right side tanks with valves and electrical controls.
Challenges:
1. You need to provide power to another lift pump and control it manually
2. You need to provide for switching between pumps OR control the filling of the right tank from the left tank (fuel transfer method).
3. You can either use a single fuel level indicator OR switch with a DPDT switch between left and right.
A. The way I did mine was mount the tank as usual with grade 8 hardware (fine thread) and pretty much match the way the right side tank is mounted.
- be careful when drilling the holes that you do NOT cut air or power lines on the inside of the frame rail. That would be messy and hard to fix.
B. Add a 2nd fuel gauge to the cab.
- run wires as usual to a additional splitter for power AND the signal line to the tank area.
C. Added a single pole double throw switch to the dash in a place you can reach. That runs to an aluminum project box mounted above the right side fuel tank to provide power to a relay. The relay switches the power from the right side tank and shunts it to the left side tank for powering the fuel lift pump. I wanted to do this in such a way that required the least amount of cutting of the existing harness as possible (little to none). Make a mistake cutting the wire harness and you could spend weeks making it right.
D. Snag a 6 port three position (center is off) fuel valve from a 5 ton. I got mine from Memphis Equipment. This gets mounted in the usual place just in front or behind the parking brake control. I put mine behind so it was easier to reach while running down the road.
E. Run brass fuel lines to the new tank and use rubber hoses to make connections from the fuel lines to the fuel valves. You will have to make a modification to the existing fuel system here BUT I seem to recall that there was a union on the right side frame rail which prevented the need to actually cut the fuel line. Just remove the old line from the right side tank and run it direct to the left side tank. Obviously the output of the fuel valve runs to the right side frame rail and joins up to the hard line going to the primary fuel filter.
-Use double flare tube tools for the fuel line. It can be fiddly but once done right leaves you with some trouble free tubing. Finding the tubing fittings that match is tricky but do it right and it can look like it was designed that way.
-Remember, the fuel lines have a supply AND return. You have to switch that as well or else you'll over fill the other tank and leave a trail of diesel behind you running via the vent tube.
F. Find a longer fuel tank sized solid mudguard from the right side of a donor deuce and place it on the left side so your left side solid mudguard extends to the bottom of the tank to protect it from stones thrown by the front left tire set.
Last edited:
coyotegray
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Could you just add a second tank and connect the two tanks with a pipe from one tank to the other at the bottom so that when one tank was filled it would fill the other at the same rate/level and empty the same way. No need for additional wiring, pumps, etc..? Any problems with that..?
Andy..
Andy..
Sephirothq
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I have seen that method done on IH tractors.
DaveP
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the cross over line would work just fine as long as you never take it off road.
gimpyrobb
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Never thought about fuel tanks, duhh.
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Depending on the reason for having a dual tank system, the set-up can vary.
On my deuce a dual tank system was implemented to start on diesel (small tank) and run on biodiesel/veggie oil, (large tank). The standard 50 gallon tank was divided for this as posted extensively in the past.
The 8x8 has a dual tank system with two identical tanks, both with pumps and a valving system so that each tank works independently of the other.
The selector switches are shown in the image below with a pilot light, which turns on when the fuel return and supply settings don't match.
On my deuce a dual tank system was implemented to start on diesel (small tank) and run on biodiesel/veggie oil, (large tank). The standard 50 gallon tank was divided for this as posted extensively in the past.
The 8x8 has a dual tank system with two identical tanks, both with pumps and a valving system so that each tank works independently of the other.
The selector switches are shown in the image below with a pilot light, which turns on when the fuel return and supply settings don't match.
Attachments
pilot
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tanks
My M543a2 wreckers use two fuel tanks with a transfer pump to deliver fuel from the right tank to the left tank.
Greg
My M543a2 wreckers use two fuel tanks with a transfer pump to deliver fuel from the right tank to the left tank.
Greg
rmgill
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The self leveling tank system from one to the other tank is a BAD idea if you want to have any degree of reliability. A pipe running from the underside of one tank to the other would VERY easily catch things on the ground and would likely tear away. It would leave you a nice double trail of fuel back to where the obstacle was though. 
Looking at all those controls on that 5 Ton of Bjorns. Now I know why he bought it. It's got more gauges and switches and levers than some aircraft.
Looking at all those controls on that 5 Ton of Bjorns. Now I know why he bought it. It's got more gauges and switches and levers than some aircraft.
Dueceownerjoe
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On old equipment we would just pump from a spare tank into the the tank the engine feeds off of. No crossoverline just a feed line from a pump in the spare tank. You have to watch the tank gauge when filling from the spare.
rmgill
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That is the other issue with a transfer type system. You can over fill your primary tank if you forget to shut off that pump.
Lorax
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My M813B has dual tanks. The passenger fuel tank is in the location that the passenger side tool box would normally be located. Switching between tanks is done using the spider valve under the driver's seat.
Yup, an M813"B". That's what you get when you take an M818, stretch the frame, and drop an M813 dropside bed on it. The "B" is either for basterd or the first letter of my last name, depending on mood.
Yup, an M813"B". That's what you get when you take an M818, stretch the frame, and drop an M813 dropside bed on it. The "B" is either for basterd or the first letter of my last name, depending on mood.
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OK so another project to add to the list. Note to self
-Add fuel tank
-Add seond air tank also
-Add fuel tank
-Add seond air tank also
beck
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I vote for Method B. By using 2 complete systems you can run different fuel mixes in the tanks. One tank could be straight diesel and the other have a mix of WMO and diesel. The straight diesel tank could be used as a start up / shut down tank so the motor starts easier with just diesel. Or in very cold weather you could run the diesel and after the weather improves you could switch back to the blend.
Connecting 2 tanks is a bad idea for all the reasons stated above and the connecting tube would need to be BIG so the 2nd tank could fill as fast as the first was being filled.