Dump Bed Kit Installation

Ironhorse

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[FONT=&quot]I bought a dump bed kit from C & C Equipment and thought I'd go through the installation. This kit was originally made for trailers so the factory instructions are rather generic. Longer hydraulic hoses have been included by C & C but you will need a set of battery cables.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]First remove the trailer light plug bracket and pioneer rack from the bed. Then remove the ten bed mounting bolts.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Using your M816, lift off the bed and set it aside.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Remove the bumperettes and the rear shackle mounts.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Position the hinges so the tops are level with the 3/4 in. wooden strip on top of the frame and the bottom flange extends approx. 3/8 in. outside the frame rail. The wood strips will eventually be replaced with steel. Using the bumperettes or 3/8 in. plate steel, make a pair of brackets that support the outside of the hinges. Bolt the brackets and tail lights in place. Weld the hinges to the rear cross member and the brackets. Reinstall the shackle mounts by turning them over and having your lackey drill two new holes in the cross member.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Place the hoist so the mounting flanges are on the doubled cross member. I had to trim about 1/2 in. off each flange so it would fit between the frame rails. Square the hoist to the frame and weld.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Mount the pump under the passenger seat and, using one of the knockouts in the floor, route the hydraulic hoses back to the cylinder. Make up new battery cables as the ones included in the kit will not work. IMPORTANT: The pump is 12 volts, connect accordingly. Fill the reservoir with oil and play with...uh, I mean, verify that the hoist works.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Insert the pivot plates into the topside of the hoist and reinstall the bed. I needed to remove a center rib and notch two cross members on the bed for clearance. Weld the bed to the hinges and the pivot plates, install the prop bar, hit it with some paint and grease and go dump something![/FONT]
 

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m16ty

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What's the dump capacity of that setup?

I've installed two deuce dumps myself. One with a scissor hoist like yours and another with a telescoping cylinder. I had to do more crossmember clearance than you did on the scissor setup. My hoist is also mounted much closer to the front than yours.
 

m16ty

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Is that included in the kit? :p
That's what I was wondering. He said that like everybody has a wrecker around back. :p

Shoot, with a wrecker you don't even need a dump. Just hook the boom to the front shackle mounts and lift the whole truck up.
 

rednckii

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Nice write up whenever i come up with some spare change i want to do this to my deuce. Maybe i can do a roadtrip since my 816 is still waiting for my bank account to realize it is needed.
 

mckeeranger

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[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Using your M816, lift off the bed and set it aside.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
So what I'm hearing you say is: I have to trade the M817 for an M816, then install a dump on the M35? Seems like an awful lot of trouble to me.

Seriously, Good job. Thanks for the write up and pics.
 

Ridgerunner

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No need for all that fanagled, mechanical, mumbo jumbo nonsense. I just run the Multi-fuel up to 6,500 RPM, side step the clutch and pop a wheelie, and all the dirt comes out of the back. I thought all Deuce owner knew how to do this. I think it even says somthing about it, in the operators manual.


Good job on the dump. I'd like to turn my Bobber into a tipper, this summer. I have everything for it, now I just have to find the time.
 

1 Patriot-of-many

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that's what i was wondering. He said that like everybody has a wrecker around back. :p

shoot, with a wrecker you don't even need a dump. Just hook the boom to the front shackle mounts and lift the whole truck up.
lmao!!!.....

IronHorse, could you provide a link for the kit? I imagine this would work for an A3 too, I was thinking about a dumper for my A3 since I looked at it. Looks pretty straight forward for a conversion.
 
Last edited:

JarheadMtn

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Get that kit from the guy in Unionville? Was considering getting that one. Just have to figure out how to lift the bed in a safe manner. Two big swing sets???

A high lift jack to lift the bed up one end at a time and then run a few 4" X 4" posts across ran under the bed. Use a few 4 X 4's as uprights to hold them up. A few 2 X 4's to brace them or diig some holes for the posts. Once the bed is supported in the air you can drive out from under the bed. Make sure you lift the bed high enough so that you can back under it again once you have the lift installed. Lots of inexpensive ways to lift heavy objects. Our Motor T shop used 3 roadside snowpoles stuck into some rebar to pull engines.. I pulled a v-8 connected to the tranny and transfer case with that set up.
 

Orionspath

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Northern Virginia
Another Installation?

[FONT=&quot]I bought a dump bed kit from C & C Equipment and thought I'd go through the installation. This kit was originally made for trailers so the factory instructions are rather generic. Longer hydraulic hoses have been included by C & C but you will need a set of battery cables.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]First remove the trailer light plug bracket and pioneer rack from the bed. Then remove the ten bed mounting bolts.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Using your M816, lift off the bed and set it aside.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Remove the bumperettes and the rear shackle mounts.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Position the hinges so the tops are level with the 3/4 in. wooden strip on top of the frame and the bottom flange extends approx. 3/8 in. outside the frame rail. The wood strips will eventually be replaced with steel. Using the bumperettes or 3/8 in. plate steel, make a pair of brackets that support the outside of the hinges. Bolt the brackets and tail lights in place. Weld the hinges to the rear cross member and the brackets. Reinstall the shackle mounts by turning them over and having your lackey drill two new holes in the cross member.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Place the hoist so the mounting flanges are on the doubled cross member. I had to trim about 1/2 in. off each flange so it would fit between the frame rails. Square the hoist to the frame and weld.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Mount the pump under the passenger seat and, using one of the knockouts in the floor, route the hydraulic hoses back to the cylinder. Make up new battery cables as the ones included in the kit will not work. IMPORTANT: The pump is 12 volts, connect accordingly. Fill the reservoir with oil and play with...uh, I mean, verify that the hoist works.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Insert the pivot plates into the topside of the hoist and reinstall the bed. I needed to remove a center rib and notch two cross members on the bed for clearance. Weld the bed to the hinges and the pivot plates, install the prop bar, hit it with some paint and grease and go dump something![/FONT]
So what would you charge to install one on my M35A2C in Delaware?
 

m16ty

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A high lift jack to lift the bed up one end at a time and then run a few 4" X 4" posts across ran under the bed. Use a few 4 X 4's as uprights to hold them up. A few 2 X 4's to brace them or diig some holes for the posts. Once the bed is supported in the air you can drive out from under the bed. Make sure you lift the bed high enough so that you can back under it again once you have the lift installed. Lots of inexpensive ways to lift heavy objects. Our Motor T shop used 3 roadside snowpoles stuck into some rebar to pull engines.. I pulled a v-8 connected to the tranny and transfer case with that set up.
The best way I've heard of is to take four 55 gal drums. Jack the bed up and put pieces of pipe between bed and frame. Hook the bed to a tree or something and pull forward a couple of feet place two drums under the bed overhang off the back. Pull forward again until the bed is almost at the end of the frame. Place the other two drums under the front end and then pull away.

I've got a big forklift myself but if I didn't this is the way I'd do it.
 
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