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Electric Fan

Jon0249

Member
109
4
16
Location
Dallas, TX
Hoping to retrieve the approximately 15hp sucked away by the factory fan, I installed the Flex-a-Lite 430 Pusher Fan, and I am unimpressed. Actually, pretty ticked off at myself. A preliminary search for the CFM rating of the OEM fan yielded nothing, so I figured the article from Four Wheeler was the definitive narrative on this subject. Boy was I wrong. And, of course, I found the OEM fan CFM rating AFTER I put the elec fan in. Turns out, the OEM fan moves between 8k-10k CFM, and the elec fan moves 2,500. So, down here in Texas, it might be useful in our hot summers as a supplemental cooler, but useless as a primary fan.

I removed the clutch altogether, instead of just the fan. Not knowing how it all disassembles from the beginning, I ended up taking it all apart. Putting it back in was a breeze, but now I have an annoying cavitating whine. It is not leaking, but I suspect I need to bleed the system? Not really sure. I applied compressed air to the line and got no movement. It all seems to be too tight, like I put the clutch components back together incorrectly.

Help please! I'm cooling better than ever, but the cavitation is irritating and is not good for the pump.

Thx,
Jon
 

Action

Well-known member
3,581
1,552
113
Location
East Tennessee
I understand it that testing has shown electric fans on the humvee restrict airflow through the cooling stack. If your Humvee is overheating, fix it. Don't just put a bandaid on it. These are slow anyways.
 

alpine44

Member
397
16
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Sound like that this is a waste of time and money. I was hoping that the electric fan would prevent the noisy engine-driven fan to engage only in the most severe conditions. Did anyone achieve this with an electric fan?

On a related topic: How do they keep the GEP 6.5 turbo engines cooled?
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,265
3,885
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Your not going to find anything that moves the amount of air you need better then the factory setup.
its been engineered folks. The 6.5TD uses the same setup and also a geared fan drive with thermostatic fan clutch on the M115x series trucks. Just leave what's in there and it will do what's it's supposed too.
 

Jon0249

Member
109
4
16
Location
Dallas, TX
I reinstalled the fan clutch, but it won't disengage, meaning the clutch is not moving when I start the engine. Compressed air doesn't do anything either. And I have a slight whine from the P/S system.

I'm reading that the clutch band sometimes sticks, so taking it off and tapping with a dead blow hammer while applying compressed air might help. Any experience with this anyone?

I'll bleed the system per TM, but the only thing I did was disassemble the clutch to get it off, reassembled it and put it back on. When I removed the clutch cap, is it possible that this particular dead-end leg of the P/S fluid system picked up a pocket of air and needs to be bled? If so, how is that done with engine off? Loosening the clutch cap?
 

Jon0249

Member
109
4
16
Location
Dallas, TX
Thanks for the tip. I think I have a pretty good grasp of the way the system works. My issue is that the clutch appears to be stuck, and compressed air is not moving it. Short of removing it and convincing it with a dead blow and air pressure, I was hoping to tap into some of the experience here. My suspicion is that there is air in the clutch line, resulting in what I would best describe as a soft pedal on a brake system in need of bleeding - not enough pressure to engage the clutch. If I loosen the clutch cap retainer nut, will the bleed procedure force fluid into that line? Intuitively, I don't think it will just by turning the steering wheel with the front wheels off the ground, but I haven't tried yet. Just seeing what others have experienced.

I noticed you edited your comment. Smart man.
 
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