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Electric fuel Pump install?

1986Blazerk5

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You want an Airtex E3158. When looking for an electric pump on my M1009, I sourced one that was for an '88 P30 Van with a 6.2L engine. I installed it this past weekend and it solved many problems I was having with my mechanical pump. I ran a new 3/8 rubber line to my fuel filter inlet, bypassing the mechanical pump and line under the intake completely.
How did u cut the fuel line under the truck, did you drain the tank?, how long did it take you to do this.
 

grayw0lf

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Clanton, AL
I also run the Airtex E8153 for my SVO pump. It seems to work great & haven't had any problems yet. Its also about the cheapest pump out there, yet seems to be very good quality.

A properly functioning IP really shouldn't be affected by slight variations in pressure.
 

wallew

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How did u cut the fuel line under the truck, did you drain the tank?, how long did it take you to do this.
Actually there is a spot up under the passenger side floor board. That's the spot he's talking about.

There is actually about a six - eight inches of rubber fuel hose that connects the two METAL fuel lines together.

Cut that out, put the pump there. Run power to the fuel pump. Mine comes on as soon as the key is turned on. As has been said it makes bleeding the air out of the system a breeze.

Take a look at the photo's again. You will see what I'm talking about. Or just look up under your truck on the passenger side.
 

lavarok

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Fellsmere, FL
:ditto:

Exactly, however...I did trim about 4-8 inches of metal tubing off the metal line that runs from the tank. I used a hacksaw blade and gloves. I believe there is a tubing cutter you can buy, but I dont think there is enough clearance to use it.

On the M1008,31, etc (pickup style trucks) you can do the job fairly easily without any cutting. Just remove the heat shield that protects the rubber hose joining two metal lines under the passenger side cab. On my M1009, I just found having the metal line shorter allowed me to run my inlet hose straight and not coil or put a kink into it.
 

wallew

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If you are going to cut METAL fuel line, wrap it with a couple of layers of tape (I use the blue stuff). That way your cut will be a bit smoother and it will protect the edge of the metal tube you are cutting.
 

gvaneck

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I hate to bring back an old thread but if I do install an electric fuel pump will I need to take the mechanical pump out and put a block off plate were it was.
 

sht2kll

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Spring Creek / Nevada
I have been trying to decide if I want to install one on my M1008 also. Like on of the previous posts. If I do install one, would I have to bypass the engine driven lift pump? I was thinking of installing the electric pump on a switch< more for priming then running constantly. Will fuel pass through the electric pump while it is not on if were to try to use it as a secondary (priming pump)?
 

NRGarrott

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I have an electric airtex pump installed. Be careful which model you purchase, i got one that was for a civvy early 90's chevy diesel and it has metric fittings on it.
 
I hate to bring back an old thread but if I do install an electric fuel pump will I need to take the mechanical pump out and put a block off plate were it was.
As my grandpappy used to say, do it right or don't do it at all. I would strongly recommend removing the old mech pump and pushrod, and installing a block-off plate. The reason most people go to electric vs mechanical is to save a HP or 2 by removing the mech pump from the engine, but I've also heard tale of an old pump developing a leak and losing the engine's oil. I'm pretty sure if the old mech pump no longer has diesel fuel flowing through it to cool and lubricate it, there would be a way for problems to develop with it pumping dry.
 

jdemaris

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I bought an electric fuel pump it delivers 8psi to the IP,
The Stanadyne injection pump does not need any other fuel pump and on some applications, there is none used.

On the 6.2 used in trucks, the mechanical pump maxes at around 4 PSi and electric around 15 PSI. Anything over 20 PSI can make the pump work incorrrectly since timing advance inside the injection pump starts to kick in at 20 PSI.

Stanadyne DB2 injection pump has its own fuel delivery pump built into it and it can draw fuel from 15-20 feet lower. Not good on a long truck pointing up a hill, and also not good for priming fuel filters.

So, when 6.2s are used with no fuel pumps, hand-primers are added for filter changes.

In trucks with 6.2s, they all need fuel pumps so they can climb hills. The mechanical can draw fuel much better then an electric pump. That's why an electric must be mounted near the tank. Nice thing about electric is it pressurizes the entire fuel line -so if it gets a leak, it drips on the ground and you know it. A mechancial pump sucks fuel, and if the line leaks - it sucks air and you cannot see it.

By the way, diesel fuel is NOT as thick as motor oil in cold temps. Nowhere near it. #2 diesel at 30 F below is not as thick as 15W-40 at 20 F above. That being said, the Delco electric pumps are rotary vane pumps and not very rugged. Walbor makes a HD elecltric diaphram pump that is MUCH more rugged. It will grealy outlast the Delco electric pumps and it can also handle off-ball thick fuels live waste motor oil and waste vegetable oils. Walbro FRB-5. Used in many HD rigs, boats, etc.

Fuel pumps specs - electric Delcos EP158 - 10-14 psi and 20 gal/hour.
EP309 - 10-15 psi and 32 gal/hour

Walbro FRB-5 heavy duty diaphram pump, rated at 60 gallons per hour. Has a duty life with a diesel of 18.000 engine hours (around half a million miles). Has a built in filter that can be removed and cleaned. Self priming. Works with gasoline, diesel, biodiesel, gas-alcohol, etc. in temps from minus 40 F to 155 F plus. Draws 2 amps max at 14 volts DC. Output pressures can be ordered from 3 PSI to 13 PSI. I use 3 PSi on my 6.2s. Built in filter can be 70 or 420 microns.
 

Iamnewatthis

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Dallas, TX
Okay JD so where do we get this walbro FRB-5 pump?
Also the shop who supposedly ordered my return pressure valve never called me back.
Do you have one i can buy from you, or know where i can get one?
I ordered a spin on adapter to replace my stock fuel filter and will be putting it in tomorrow.
thanks.
 

JUNKYARDJOHN

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somerset ky
WOW... you guys are good. I'm used to having to come up these little upgrades, experiment till I get it right & come up with these little solutions on my own. Just another big chunk-o-work you guys saved me. Another upgrade to add to the list. :beer: Times two now as I just picked up a M1031. THANK YOU John
 

top_prop

Member
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Location
Suffolk, VA
Thanks for all the info and research so many have posted here. I'm getting my M1009 soon and want to do this mod. I've checked around for the Walbro.... to expensive.. and found the 88 Chevy Van pump (E8153) seems to be the best compromise in cost and performance...

Airtex - Diesel Electric Fuel Pump
Part Number: E8153
Line: AIX
UPC: 80044090571
Universal
Type: Solenoid
Volts: 12
Pressure: 10-14 PSI
Flow (GPH): 35
Inlet/Outlet Size: 3/8 Inch Hose

I plan on putting a clear non oem filter in between it and the tank as a prefilter.... I'll take and post pics here.
 

Ronbo

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Mid TN.USA
Thanks for this info guys.. My truck is down at the moment and needing a fuel fix... I have 2 questions , sorryif its a repost , 1 If you bypass the manual pump do you just connect the fuel lines at that point or reroute the fuel line from the new electric pump? and 2 I really need the info for the spin on filter , Does it have a place to put the wires/ heater etc advise on an install.. Thanks a lot .its greatly appreciated...
 

southdave

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ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
Ron
you could use it for awhile, but why risk a break down.. you don't need the heater summer may not need it down your way at all. heater help with the waxing effect form water in fuel in cold weather. the wax cloggs your filter ect.. dont forget the screen filter before the pump..
 
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