Engine knocking LDS-456

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Jeepsinker

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Hope you don't have a headgasket that didn't seal... that could also cause your ticking and make it run at an elevated temperature. You'd likely see other symptoms though.
 

Oerthedge21

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That would be really sucky, but it's like you said the truck has no symptoms of such an issue. I'm gonna get those gauges installed today and see what's going on
 

Oerthedge21

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Finally got a nice long ride in today, took the truck through the hilliest part of town. Did great, sounds good too. Ticking is still there but until it gets worse I no longer care. Oil pressure is still 30-60 psi, and no leaks or fluid contamination so far. The exhaust is so much cleaner as well, that picture is with the truck running. It used to Chuck a cloud just idling in the driveway. Seems to be getting great fuel mileage too, gotta do some exact calculating but right now I'd guess around 11-12 mpg.IMG_20191028_171408207_HDR.jpg Got the gauges installed before I left, truck will build to about 19 lbs boost if you're really hammering on it. Temporary temp gauge is reading 160, original gauge is still at 220 so I guess I need a new one of those too. I did run into a pretty concerning issue however. The brakes in this truck have always been soft, but they do work and they don't leak. I know they need an adjustment, but this is a separate issue. It happened twice today and it's happened once before. I was coming to a stop at an intersection and the pedal just stopped as I was pushing it down, fully locked as if it was jammed up solid. Let it out and pushed in again really quick and operation resumed as normal. The one time before this I had just figured something had gotten stuck in the linkage or whatever, and chalked it up as a weird occurance. But now I see this is definitely an issue. I noticed when t jammed that when I let off it quickly to let it come back up and push down again, on the initial let up the airpack could be heard releasing more air than it usually does, even if I'm really stepping in the pedal hard. My guess is the airpack needs a rebuild, but I'm not sure. The linkage should be fine, I've greased it more than once and it all moves smoothly. Any input on that that is?IMG_20191028_171421985.jpgIMG_20191028_171436205.jpg
 
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Jericho

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Been following your saga, I have a noise in mine, i just get used to it, I have noticed alot of them have ticky injectors. Some noiser than others. What brand ,source did you use for your boost gage and where did you install it in the system
 

Oerthedge21

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I used a Bosh FST 8213 from Advance Auto, like 17$. Does vacuum and boost, which I'm not a huge fan of but it was cheaper than sourcing one online and faster than waiting for shipping, I'm extremely impatient. I mounted it under the dash panel, at the edge of the lip to the bottom right of the shut-off cable. Only thing is the backlight for the gauge is 12v, but it's a removable bulb so if I source a 24v one it'll be good to go. Works good so far, although I'm gonna paint it green to match the truck. Tractor supply sells a camo green paint that matches the CARC on my truck perfectly. Attached is a picture of a place I touched up where there was a big rust patch, you can barely tell. I also spilled some oil on the black part so it looks really dark and put of place now lol. IMG_20191028_175852162.jpgIMG_20191028_175855897.jpgIMG_20191028_180013937.jpg
As for my ticking, it's not the injectors or valve train, it's its own noise. I'm not a fan of the "they all make different noises" diagnosis because i had read that about the knock it made before, but upon further investigation it was not just "a noise it makes". That's really the big reason I was so concerned about it, after just blowing all that cash on a rebuild for a noise I ignored, I wanted to try and be at least a little bit wiser, but that's just me. Anyhow I appreciate that you've been following along, I didn't expect this thread to get so many views, or go on for so long, but I'm glad other people can see what I'm doing and hopefully use my experience to help themselves in the future
 

frank8003

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Many Deuce brake problems come from dissimilar brake pistons/springs/cups and bound-up, not sliding on pins shoes.
Before you go refurbishing the brakes just put dry service air into the right rear glad hand and put a 100psig in there. Go operate the brakes a hundred times, You need helper "C", give her a beer, and look and listen.
Works good without engine/compressor running.
Every leak will be easily found to be corrected. Especially look for blown brake lines, they are all over the place under there. Dawn soap and a HF pressure washer is your friend here.
There is about a hundred and two things to make brakes NOT work good
Put air in there and operate the brakes to decide which one to take apart and repair.
View attachment deuce brake adjuster repair proof RR tandem IMG_3045.MOV
 

cattlerepairman

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It is also a good time to put a bit of air tool oil into the air pack, either through the little plug on the back if it can be motivated to come out, or loosen the J pipe and put it in there.
 

Jericho

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I feel your pain, I spent months and mucho dinero trying to make it squeak, leak and knock free. I did cure a lot . Went down the jackshaft route DID HELP. change U joints, greased greased and greased. Then realized I had put 6000 plus miles on it in the interim with no break downs!. Have new seals and bearings for the wheels and new airpack , master resovior and remote brake fluid package ready to install, was a fast summer, never got to any of it, Now its ready to prep it for winter and 7 months of snow and subzero ! I think you pay attention to your mait and have an ear for things that are acting up You will do fine
 

Oerthedge21

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Same here, have about 250$ worth of seals and axle boots to put on before the snow hits. Gonna try to get it all done this November but we shall see. Although now that I finally picked up an impact that'll take the lugs off I might actually be able to get some of it done
 

gimpyrobb

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I didn't see in any of the troubleshooting if you checked the push rods. Maybe one got bent somehow? Thats the last thing I could think of.
 

Oerthedge21

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I looked them all over when had them out. None were bent that I could see, and there was no damage or wear to the ends of them either. Lifter/pushrods were one of the things I considered in my search for the sound but I didn't recall seeing anyhting out of the ordinary with them when they were out
 

Oerthedge21

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Been taking the truck for a drive every day after work, usually about an hour, as that's all I have time for and all I can tolerate with that rock solid drivers seat. The good news is the ticking seems to have been quieting down, and today during cool down I could not hear it at all. Bad news is the truck still has excessive blowby, stinks of oil however, not exhaust gas, to the point where there is a film of liquid black oil sludge in there that will drop it occasionally. All fluids still good, and I discovered I'll be needing a new J pipe. IMG_20191031_170601302.jpg
Not a big shocker, it already has a piece of pipe clamped over it just after that hole so I kinda saw it coming. Not the source of the ticking sadly, but thankfully that seems to be fine so I don't much care. Next time it stops raining all day I'm gonna take the truck out farther, several towns over theres more and steeper hills to run, and now I trust the truck enough not to fail on me that I'm comfortable going that far out. Hopefully I can get these rings to seat, I've been hammering on it and making it work for it every chance I get, keeping EGTs under 1300, running a Max of about 15lbs boost, any more than that and I have to be in the throttle enough to climb right past 1300°. Exhaust seems to be getting cleaner as I drive it as well, less smoke. Tried ordering a new temp gauge but PayPal wigged out and flagged it as suspicious so now I have to try again, got new axle boots and wheels seals on my table for when I have the chance to out them in. Picked up an Ingersoll Rand 1" electric impact as well, takes the lugs off with ease and requires no big compressor, just a 110v outlet, one of he best tools I've bought off Craigslist in a long time. For anyone still following this, I'll keep it updated as I run it more until I get the rings to seal, or if I run into any issues
 

davidb56

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tie a plastic bottle to catch the blow by and see just how much is coming out. My transfer case leaks from the seal and it looks like its covered down the side of it, but I check it often and haven't had to add any yet.
 

Oerthedge21

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I taped a plastic bottle to the slobber tube, cut a vent hole up on top so it wouldn't blow off. All I've caught is a little bit of condensed oil, no soot staining or smell of exhaust so I'm satisfied. I've put about 200 miles on it so far. Runs great, no issues I've noted. Gonna do my axle seals this weekend, o finally had time to yank the wheels and do a brake adjustment, drivers side rear has oil in the brakes so o gotta reseal it, plus the front end boots and leaking axle seals. After that I can finish up test driving it with confidence and hopefully not have to deal with any more issues. Gonna convert it to spin on oil and fuel to help keep it going. I'll post up the page numbers of the TM I printed that I used for this rebuild to try and save someone the time of searching through hundreds of pages
 

cattlerepairman

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... has oil in the brakes so o gotta reseal it, plus the front end boots and leaking axle seals. After that I can finish up test driving it with confidence and hopefully not have to deal with any more issues.
You are the eternal optimist! Doing the front seals is rewarding. I have very good experience with the slightly oversized boots from rockwelloffroad.com as well as their modified inner front axle seals with the "sock tube" type of seal that seals better than the lip seal. Not affiliated, no kickbacks, just a satisfied product user.

seal: https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/product-page/upgrade-2-5-ton-billet-retainer-with-tube-seal-wobble-seal-1
 
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Oerthedge21

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Dammit I already have a set of the OEM style seals sitting on my table. I guess if I screw the installation up and they still leak I'll get the upgrade instead. I'm hoping the old seals and retainers come out easily, I'm gonna do the rear axle seals first since that's an easier fix first, my OTC 3" socket should be here tomorrow that is to Amazon prime.
 

frank8003

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One can NOT tell what one has unless one put the pushrods in machinist V-blocks up against a dial indicator in tenths. |Does that engine have solid lifters or hydraulic lifters. Many ticks associated with lifters and guides!
Guides fail with bad lifters and with lack of lube AND with slightly bent rods in the .0007 out of TIR range.
You got it done, now can perfect it........

Never ever re-use the axle holder-oners . Wheel can come off.
Do you need any tablocks?

https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=partner-pub-4015606617893285:1751224275&ie=UTF-8&q=pushrods&sa=Search&ref=www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?190023-Engine-knocking-LDS-456/page8

Turn transmission-to-transfer propeller shaft (1) only to
right to prevent damage to equipment.

TM 9-2320-211-20-3-1

Do you need a nice joke to relax?

If you ever take it apart again....................
If one has nothing else to check rods with then a few new machinist lathe tool bits one may use instead of the V blocks. The tool bits are within .0001. If you have not any of them I can send you some. If rod is bent you will see it right away.
Guides and lifters and cams wear out.
Assure stuff is straight, number everything, test the rods, that will show which guide it worn out. Have a scotch, continue.
 
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