nudewheeler
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- Tucson, AZ
Howdy Folks!
This may take some wind to fully describe how my M1009 is behaving after this weekend's work. I will try to be concise as possible. Here is the situation:
Problem: While engine is cold, up to 60 seconds after startup, and a modest blip of the throttle (50% or greater) the stock 6.2 stalls.
Weather: Tucson, between 75-95 degrees when I've experienced this.
Background: Before this weekend's work, my M1009 would start up properly and never hesitated after a modest throttle blip just after startup.
BEOFRE: Gen 2 in a spin activated alternator (to initiate it charging, it must reach a certain RMP, which requires the engine to rev above idle for just a second).
During any time after start up I could mash the throttle to any degree and the engine would seamlessly return to idle. Thing was bulletproof, and it was awesome. I would hear the glow plug relay click off after a certain amount of time, but I never really paid attention to it.
This weekend I had a thrash session on the blazer. Finishing up an AC install, put in a tiny tach, removed the stock radio, added some power accessories etc etc. I performed some modifications to the truck.
Voltmeter leads were extended and the gauge was mounted by T-case lever.
Tany tach, I tapped into an ignition source of power for the display. In the engine compartment, I mounted the engine ground lead for the transducer (thingy that bolts around an injector line) to the same valve cover stud that one of the alternators uses for it's engine ground (driver's side alt). No biggy, very minimal source required.
Removing the radio I may have made a mistake. Batteries were connected. The radio was not connected to anything, so I just had to remove it from the dash. Upon doing so, I arced a good one while across the starter solenoid. Sparks flew for a brief zap as I yanked it out. Oops.
Now, after extending the voltmeter leads, tapping into an ignition power source, putting another grounding ring on the driver's side alternator engine stud, and adding three accessory power outlets (positive rings around the 12v bus, and grounded at the parking brake common ground bracket) my starting procedure has changed.
AFTER:
***Now, during any part of this process for the first 60 seconds of run time (regardless of where the voltmeter reads or which alternators are charging) if I blip the throttle any more than 40%, as the engine is returning to idle it generally just dies. If I blip 30-50%, sometimes the engine will dip well below idle, but it will maintain running. During more aggressive blips, the engine just dies.
Let the turd warm up for 90-120 seconds, or give it 20% throttle for a minute or so, it warms up enough that during throttle blips it returns to idle just fine. During subsequent warm startups, the engine does not have these problems.
It almost sounds like the glow plugs need to stay lit for a bit longer after startup. Maybe I have glow plugs going bag, or some other component in the glow plug system going bad. Any ideas folks? At a loss....
Why does the 6.2 die just after a cold startup after a throttle blip?
Thanks in advance...
This may take some wind to fully describe how my M1009 is behaving after this weekend's work. I will try to be concise as possible. Here is the situation:
Problem: While engine is cold, up to 60 seconds after startup, and a modest blip of the throttle (50% or greater) the stock 6.2 stalls.
Weather: Tucson, between 75-95 degrees when I've experienced this.
Background: Before this weekend's work, my M1009 would start up properly and never hesitated after a modest throttle blip just after startup.
- Both alternators are good (just had one rewound not too long ago).
- Replaced both relays under the dash (one for the gen2 light, the other for the voltmeter).
- I've replaced the starter solenoid with the suggested 200amp intermittent relay from Napa.
- Glow plug controller card and glow plug relay in the engine bay claimed to have been replaced by previous owner.
- New DuraLast gold batteries, fluid levels are good in both.
- Spin on fuel filter, no pinched fuel lines.
BEOFRE: Gen 2 in a spin activated alternator (to initiate it charging, it must reach a certain RMP, which requires the engine to rev above idle for just a second).
- I would turn the key to run, wait until the 'wait' light disappeared (voltmeter sitting mid way in the yellow), and start the truck.
- Gen 1 light would go out upon startup, and the voltmeter would rest ~ 1/2 to 3/4 through the yellow.
- With a small blip of the throttle (40-60%), the gen 2 light would go out, and the voltmeter would hop just into the green.
- Charging system would charge the batteries from the start and send the voltmeter into the green for a short while, then return to steady state just above the yellow/green line.
During any time after start up I could mash the throttle to any degree and the engine would seamlessly return to idle. Thing was bulletproof, and it was awesome. I would hear the glow plug relay click off after a certain amount of time, but I never really paid attention to it.
This weekend I had a thrash session on the blazer. Finishing up an AC install, put in a tiny tach, removed the stock radio, added some power accessories etc etc. I performed some modifications to the truck.
Voltmeter leads were extended and the gauge was mounted by T-case lever.
Tany tach, I tapped into an ignition source of power for the display. In the engine compartment, I mounted the engine ground lead for the transducer (thingy that bolts around an injector line) to the same valve cover stud that one of the alternators uses for it's engine ground (driver's side alt). No biggy, very minimal source required.
Removing the radio I may have made a mistake. Batteries were connected. The radio was not connected to anything, so I just had to remove it from the dash. Upon doing so, I arced a good one while across the starter solenoid. Sparks flew for a brief zap as I yanked it out. Oops.
Now, after extending the voltmeter leads, tapping into an ignition power source, putting another grounding ring on the driver's side alternator engine stud, and adding three accessory power outlets (positive rings around the 12v bus, and grounded at the parking brake common ground bracket) my starting procedure has changed.
AFTER:
- Turn ignition key to run, voltmeter reads mid way through the red.
- After I hear some sort of click (I assume this is the controller card clicking off the glow plug relay) the voltmeter rises to mid way through the yellow.
- Start the truck, and the voltmeter drops back down into the red (I assume the controller card kicks the glow plugs on again). Both gen lights are on at this point (DIFFERENCE, gen 1 light used to go off during startup)
- Give the truck a bit of fuel, gen 1 light goes off, and voltmeter rises into middle of the yellow.
- Give truck more fuel, gen 2 light goes off, and voltmeter rises into the green.
***Now, during any part of this process for the first 60 seconds of run time (regardless of where the voltmeter reads or which alternators are charging) if I blip the throttle any more than 40%, as the engine is returning to idle it generally just dies. If I blip 30-50%, sometimes the engine will dip well below idle, but it will maintain running. During more aggressive blips, the engine just dies.
Let the turd warm up for 90-120 seconds, or give it 20% throttle for a minute or so, it warms up enough that during throttle blips it returns to idle just fine. During subsequent warm startups, the engine does not have these problems.
It almost sounds like the glow plugs need to stay lit for a bit longer after startup. Maybe I have glow plugs going bag, or some other component in the glow plug system going bad. Any ideas folks? At a loss....
Why does the 6.2 die just after a cold startup after a throttle blip?
Thanks in advance...
