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Extra fuel

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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A few months ago I picked up a 100-120gal fuel tank. I am getting ready to install it at the front of the bed, just behind the cab. I would like it to be easily removable if I should ever need an empty bed. Its roughly 25.5x72.5x17.5. It has an oval depression in the bottom center roughly 6x8. The depression means I'll need to have it "sit" on some kind of frame. I got a stock deuce fuel tank bracket and it is too short to keep the oval from touching bottom, so it looks as I will be using some 2x3 tubing under the tank. I was wondering, the stock brackets have some kind of webbing as a gasket for the tank. What type of "gasket" should I try to make? I have a big pile of 900r20 tubes, would strips of rubber work ok? I know in another thread (that I can't seem to find) someone said there was a source for the gasket, but I like to keep things cheap and have tubes to cut up. I'm also wondering the best way to strap this thing in securely AND be able to remove it in less than a full days work. An thoughts are welcome.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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The tubes will work. Is it possible to incorperate a D ring on the top of the tank straps so a ratchet tiedown or turn buckle can be used to secure it in the bed?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I was told that if it isn't bolted in, I need a haz-mat cdl for any amount over 117gal. If it looks like its a temp settup, I am screwed, if it looks like its bolted in, I'm ok. I was thinking of making some kind of strap similar to stock straps, but the end would have a bolt welded to it. I am thinking something like a T bolt setup, where it drops through the bed floor and spins 90* to lock in, then have a nut welded to the bed (between the cab and bed) to hold everything in place. That means I will have to cut a slot in the bed, but I might have no other choice.
 

ALFA2

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Phoenix, Arizona
gimpyrobb, there are several cheap ways to make easy and usable for off road terrain fuel tank mount gaskets. The one we had the best results with are old fire hoses, they will outlast any tube rubber, can be tightened harder, and best of all they do not squeak on you, when the frame and bed flex off road. Since they are not metal, scrap yards will be happy to see you just take them away, since they can not be reused for fire hoes use after they fail inspection, or crack from long and improper storage. the 4" and bigger hoses are thick enough to be using just one ply strip to line your tanks brackets and other points of metal to metal contact. We had very good results with aluminum, steel, and stainless tanks, using this method, and it was free, regardless of length of strap needed on any fuel tank we have installed this way. A volunteer fire department may let you know where or when they upgrade or inspect their hoses, and when they get rid of the ones they don't like any more. If they know that you will not attempt to resell the hoses for fire use, or use them for carrying water, they will not cut them, may be just take off their hose couplers, which will not effect you use of the hose in any way. Hose material is also good for soft and smooth skid liner, on the bottom of your removable fuel tank's skids/frame?, where it will contact the truck bed.

Hope it helps some.

ALFA2
 

cranetruck

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Gimp, I would cut an opening in the bed (can always be restored later if need be) for that oval depression. Makes it possible to drain the tank from below also. This would provide continuous support for it, adding straps and padding (fire hose material) as needed.

Filled, the tank will weigh close to 1,000 lb, so you need to spread the load, don't think two brackets alone is advisable.

Is it aluminum? Does it have baffles to reduce fuel sloshing?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Cincy Ohio
I don't think I would want that large of a hole in the bed Bjorn. It is a heavy gauge steel and yes it has baffles in it. I might know a guy that has access to fire hose.
 

Jakob

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Location
Louisville, KY
This is interesting as I was considering something around 100 gallons to put in the bed. How are you going to tie this tank in to the existing fuel system?
 

sdb3023

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deathrowdave

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falmouth, ky
Gimp, I may some old fire hose laying around ,I will check Monday. If you do not here back from me ,I forgot call me to remind me !!! Have a great Holiday,Dave
 

rideni

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Location
Aberdeen, MD
IIRC any permanently installed tank over 119 gallons requires a tank endorsement, which generally needs a CDL tank endorsement, if portable you need a tank endorsemnt for over 1000 gallons. This is both for trailer and vehicle mounted tanks. If your total weight is over 1000 pounds of total diesel you need placards and a hazmat endorsement which requires a CDL. The tanker endorsement is a available in commercial and non-commercial licenses in maryland. Also some states have stricter rules in tanks and placards
 

maxim

Member
I do not know the configuration of your tank, but if there is a farm salvage, or farm implimant dealer around they may have a old chemical saddle tank bracket they use on tractors. Also combines had a fuel tank up in the back that came in many different shapes depending on the combine make. Perhaps you couild even find the tank and mount with vents and drain and fill cap already in it who knows...
 
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jatonka

Well-known member
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Ephratah, New York
No matter how you set it up, you sure have increased your range to G.O.O.D. And you can pick the cheapest fuel stops and take advantage of the lower price. You can do a selector valve like the 818 tractors and the 1970's pickups that added second tanks for carrying slide in campers. I think it is a great idea to have extra fuel on board. JT
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
748
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Yeah JT, I figure around 1500 miles per fill up. In the past I have used gravity feed with a 3/4" hose and it works fine. I have been thinking of using a powered pump to refill on the fly, but that means I will need to get my fuel gauge working. :)
 

jesusgatos

Active member
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on the road - in CA right now
Take a look at what McMaster's got. I just bought some adhesive-backed silicone to put between the framerails and the skidplate on my dirt bike. When I removed and reinstalled my fuel tank, it looked like they just used cotton webbing. So I bought some cotton webbing at a local fabric store, but I'm going to replace it with something from McMaster when I install a second fuel tank on the driver's side.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
748
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I might get something from them if my "home brew" doesn't work. I have access to inner tube and fire hose material. I'll try to post a pic later.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
748
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I understand what you are getting at. Infact I have been using an IBC that hols 275gal or so. Most of my fuel is filtered and thinned prior to going into my fuel tanks, so that step is not as big of deal while on the road. I did have some issues with fuel once and decided its not worth the hassle on the road. Just in case, I do carry extra fuel filters with me. :mrgreen:
 

andyindy

Member
116
1
18
Location
Rising Sun Indiana
Gimp, I too have canvas fire hose as well as round baler belts. Only concern w/ innertubes is if they come in contact w/ fuel, they will distort and get soft, but probably not an issue in this application. Wish I knew you needed hose when you were here! Let me know if you want some. Andy.........
 
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