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Extreme Expedition Vehicle

The Gimlis

New member
92
3
0
Location
Minden, NV
We have thought about the singles, but one of our trips convinced to stay with the duals. A big old rock took a huge chunk out of the tread on one of the steer tires. We just took off one of the rear, switched it with the bad front, and away we went. Since we go out in the the extreme boonies, we don't need to worry about flattening a single and being stuck. If you look thru our pictures, you will not see a spare (there is an additional 50 gal diesel tank where the spare tire used to be).
 

maynard83

Member
296
2
18
Location
OC, California
We have thought about the singles, but one of our trips convinced to stay with the duals. A big old rock took a huge chunk out of the tread on one of the steer tires. We just took off one of the rear, switched it with the bad front, and away we went. Since we go out in the the extreme boonies, we don't need to worry about flattening a single and being stuck. If you look thru our pictures, you will not see a spare (there is an additional 50 gal diesel tank where the spare tire used to be).
Makes complete sense, especially were you guys go and you were able to prove your justification for staying with the duals.
 

maynard83

Member
296
2
18
Location
OC, California
Yes, Maynard83, good eye - that is the propane tank. It works good, but on the next one, we may set it up a bit different. Right now you have to watch those big tree limbs! Oh yeah, Mr Gimli says to tell you that we have a remote fill right by the passenger door so that one does not need to climb up there to fill the propane tank.

donttreadonmebmg, we can build you one......!! Let us know!!!;-)
The location of that tank would be a concern for me too and I am glad to hear you plan on setting it up differently. Plus you can use that spot for cargo or even a spare tire! :)
Do let us know what something like your setup would cost along with build time. I deal a lot with refurbished equipment as well as leveraging my business for good pricing (electronics, intercom systems, networking, wireless, computing, etc...) so I can provide a lot of that stuff for my own camper (and anyone else on this forum if they like)
If you prefer to send me a PM regarding costs I would appreciate it.
 

The Gimlis

New member
92
3
0
Location
Minden, NV
Thanks everyone for the compliments, we do appreciate it.

It's real hard to give you a cost on the build because we were able to get used parts for free, others at reduced rates and plus the steel we used was leftover from other jobs, so that was basically paid for. Plus we would be giving away business secrets :razz:

If you are trying figure out what it would cost YOU to make this, start a big list of everything you need/want, figure if you are going to do the welding/electrical/cabinets/plumbing/paneling/etc. If you cant do it, take our pictures, and find your local business who can do those things (like us!). Because we have a steel fab shop, I didn't have to pay other than my guys' hourly wages for the labor. Also we can turn one over within about 2-3 months because we can work all day on it.

Find your suppliers either local or on the web, then add up all the parts and labor, add another $2500 or more for unknowns, boo-boo's and what nots. No, its not cheap. Not when you go to this extent of detail.

For those of you that liked the ladder, when you build your door frame, just inset it enough have your ladder even with the side of the rig. Ladder is just aluminum C channel, with hinges at the bottom, and a helper spring to make lifting it up and down very simple.

Any other questions, let us know. Thanks again everyone!
 

M920

Member
892
24
18
Location
chama/nm
Sweet Truck! Having built my own MV / RV I know just how much work went in to yours!
I really like the idea with the ladder on the door.....does it have some assist to lift or is it light enough to just push up and latch?

Soni
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,806
724
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
Amazing rig! I would like some more information on the pass through from the cab to the box- my wife has been wanting me to build one in our m109. I was thinking some kind of plenum with enough folds to 'flex' when the box and the cab move opposite of each other off road.
 

The Gimlis

New member
92
3
0
Location
Minden, NV
Sweet Truck! Having built my own MV / RV I know just how much work went in to yours!
I really like the idea with the ladder on the door.....does it have some assist to lift or is it light enough to just push up and latch?

Soni
Hi M920! The ladder is surprisingly light but not light enough for a decrepit old lady like me so we attached a helper spring that assists with the up and down. The spring is actually made to help with raising and lower the drop down trailer door/ramps (like on an enclosed car trailer). It works perfect on the ladder.
 

The Gimlis

New member
92
3
0
Location
Minden, NV
Amazing rig! I would like some more information on the pass through from the cab to the box- my wife has been wanting me to build one in our m109. I was thinking some kind of plenum with enough folds to 'flex' when the box and the cab move opposite of each other off road.

Well, Iron Horse train guy, it's pretty darn easy. Cut the holes in both the box and the cab (PLEASE make sure they line up!!!). Frame both sides with sq tubing, making sure that there is a minimum of 3 inches between the box and the cab. We attached a 1/8" x 6" flat piece of steel, screwed to the box side on the bottom of the opening. This piece extends to the cab frame - but do not attach it to the cab! This piece must be able to move, but it will give you a place to step so you don't fall through. Then cut a piece of 1/8" thick rubbery type of material wide enough to cover the area from the opening frame of the cab and the box. Of course this needs to be long enough to go alllllll the way around the opening. Use a rubber cement (like weather strip adhesive) to glue it to the frame. We placed a 1 1/2" x 1/4" flat piece of aluminum like a picture frame on inside of the box and the inside of the cab to hold the rubber in place ( with self tappy screws every two inches.) This set up allows plenty of movement for the cab and box. Very simple! Has not leaked!
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,806
724
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
Thank you very much Lisa! Great, another project!

I think I have it all pictured in my mind. If you happen to have any pics of it close up I would appriciate it. One worry I had was the chance of weaking the cab tub. My wife will be pleased.
 

zout

Well-known member
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
Yrs ago some of the semi tractor mfg's use to use these style of rubber pleated boots to go between the sleepers and cabs - WM is an ole trucker along with PB and I am sure others remember these. They came in all styles shapes and sizes - some that come to mind were the GMC's.

If you could get your hands on one of these that was not rotted from age sitting on someones shelf that would make a perfect pass through porthole - as that was what they were originally made for. Structure integrity should not be harmed - they had support brackets that fitted to seal the boots from both sides to the sleepers and to the cabs making them flex resistant and putting that flex onto the boot.

I like seeing the truck in action and this makes it come together for how you built it the way you did for your usage.

For your spare tank in place of the spare tire rack - did you use another MV fuel tank or another tank with an external 24v pump - I did the external on ours because I could get the 50 gallon tanks for free with the mounting brackets and hardware.
 
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