Fender-mounted heater THAT pathetic?

[Bill W]

"I definitely feel stupid for assuming those little draincock handles were merely draincocks and not the actual shut-offs they are"

well join the club
I thought the same thing when I first saw those valves on my deuce

 

[asgtoolman]

I started installing a cab heater in my deuce this past weekend and this forum has really been helpful; all "equipment " and ductwork has been mounted, now I just need to hook up hoses and wire it--any body got pictures or diagrams on wiring? The technical info I tried to download on this site is virtually unreadable.
I THINK [assume] that power goes to center post on fan switch, then low speed wire goes thru the resistor and ties in to a wire that comes straight from the high speed side of switch and then the wire goes on to the fan motor.
But I know all too well what ASSUME means---any help available?

 

[Kohburn]

Never heard of such choices.
What application did they come from?

They both sound impressive, though!

cable actuated ones are common in aftermarket coolant based heating kits.
air actuated valves are more an industrial item but can be sourced from mcmaster.com

 

[jwaller]

FWIW the hmmwv uses a cable shutoff for it's heater core.

 

[Barrman]

The -20 talks you through how to wire it. The simple version is this. The truck has two circuit breakers on the out side of the steering column on the engine side of the firewall. One is the horn and I forgot what the other one does. Wire #11 is power in to the breaker. Use one of the fancy T Packard connectors to split off wire #11 to another breaker you still need to mount on the firewall. You will notice there are about 3 more blanks where screws can go that are spaced perfectly for the breakers. Run power to your switch from the new breaker. Then, the switch out goes directly to the heater motor.

Use screws to mount the low speed resistor to the firewall. Do not use zip ties to hold it up to the throttle and cut off cables. I couldn't figure out what that burning smell was until melted zip tied landed on my leg and burned through my pants into my skin.

 

[92RT-TT]

lots of great info in this thread. I'll probably have to refer back to this once I get my deuce being I'm def going to want heat!

 

[Barrman]

Crane truck actaully has a great heater wiring thread from a few years ago. Once the server/picture issues are fixed this afternoon, do a search for it.

 

[Wildchild467]

about the heater valve, i bought mine from napa to adjust the heat. It works great. its cable operated, 5/8" x 5/8". I mounted my heater core inside and the cable that went to the damper now goes to my heater valve. I wish i had the part number, but it also fit Fords and International Scouts. I dont have the time at work here to look up the part number or else i would. ill check when i get home. im sure it can be found on napa's website if you look for international scout. it had a part number that could have been like xxxx-xxxxx....so there was a dash in the part number somewhere for what it is worth...might help finding it.

 

[Kohburn]

Napa search turned up this one for 5/8" hose http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6601140_0069256228
and this one for 3/4" hose http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6601441_0069256509

 

[Karl kostman]

I live in Fargo ND and on my deuce I installed the heater unit Under the glove box area and plumbed it in as Bill W mentioned, it works GREAT I also have an arctic front on my Deuce and when I restored the truck I installed all 1' tractor cab insulation over the entire cab top area and replaced about 95% of all the weather stripping in the cab. Today is supposed to be our first snow of the year but so far the truck seems to be great for heat, -30 will definately be the real test! Good Luck
KK

 

[MO MV man]

Yet another example of why I love this site so much.......
My simple post has turned into an outpouring of awesome info.

Soon we'll be all shlogging around in the white stuff with our monsters so tis the season to get those heaters going!

Drove my rig to work today.

 

[LanceRobson]

• i just put a heater in my deuce about 2 weeks ago, but i shortened my fender mounted heater and put it under the dash, about how the M35A3 are set up and it works great

How did yo deal with the air flow to the diverter? If you have any pics it would help.

Thanks

Lance

 

[treeguy]

I have been looking high and low for the correct heater hose plumbing locations. I have heat but it takes my truck a long time to come up to temp. I have one hose on the manifold at the temp sensor and the other on the port after the thermostat above the water pump before the 2" hose to it. Like I said, I have heat but I seem to be bypassing the thermostat hence the long heat up time. So I read this thread and saw your hose location and it seems that there isn't much differance between ours ,it is virtually doing the same thing at a similar location. So does it seem to anyone that this location totally bypasses the thermostat rendering it useless?

 

[treeguy]

What will happen if the first heater hose is tapped at the top port of the thermostat housing and the second threaded into one of the lower ports to the water pump[ on the pipe or on the pump]? The coolant should still circulate right? But you probably won't have heat until the thermostat opens.....?

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Barrman, Do you have any photos of the circuit breaker setup on your firewall that you mentioned in this post?

 

[asgtoolman]

Barrman, Do you have any photos of the circuit breaker setup on your firewall that you mentioned in this post?

I also would love to see the pics of circuit breaker setup

 

[tm america]

the hose routing bill w has is the correct routing . .i'm gonna move my heater to under the glove box.I just don't like how hard it is to get at the fuel filters with it in the factory location..It works fine there but better wouldn't be a bad thing

 

[OPCOM]

A word about breakers - if you are adding them, try to use DC-rated magnetic trip breakers, not the thermal auto-reset types. The magnetic ones are faster, more durable, do not change trip amps after x amount of trips, not made in China, and can also be used as switches. I used over 20 of them in my last project and they can be found surplus in different styles for $5-10 each, in sizes of 1-100A. You can substitute 50/60Hz AC-rated ones, just don't use the consumer house-breaker-box types. Use industrial panel mount ones. These are distinguished by usually having screw terminals or studs on the backside for use with wire lugs. Do as you please, I'm just showing what seemed to work extremely well.