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Finally bought a M37!

chapmajs

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Buena Vista, VA
Threw a new parts counter 12V fuel pump on in place of the original, changed inline fuel filter, runs and drives now. It has a boat fuel tank in the bed, guy I bought it from had the original gas tank but someone had, for whatever reason, cut it in half. Fortunately, the tank straps are still in place.

Just ran it for a minute since I still need to get an oil pressure gauge hooked up. Zero smoke on startup, after doing a loop around the lot there was some burn-off smoke but I'm pretty sure it's from oil on the manifold...I think this truck has literally never started since whoever had it before the guy I bought it from...who'd had it for 10 or so years!

I have the slightest amount of braking at the very bottom of the master cylinder stroke, so probably time for a new MC.
 

John Mc

Well-known member
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290
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Location
Monkton, VT
Threw a new parts counter 12V fuel pump on in place of the original, changed inline fuel filter, runs and drives now. It has a boat fuel tank in the bed, guy I bought it from had the original gas tank but someone had, for whatever reason, cut it in half. Fortunately, the tank straps are still in place.

Just ran it for a minute since I still need to get an oil pressure gauge hooked up. Zero smoke on startup, after doing a loop around the lot there was some burn-off smoke but I'm pretty sure it's from oil on the manifold...I think this truck has literally never started since whoever had it before the guy I bought it from...who'd had it for 10 or so years!

I have the slightest amount of braking at the very bottom of the master cylinder stroke, so probably time for a new MC.
Was the new pump rated in the 4-5 PSI range, or did you have to keep the pressure regulator you mentioned earlier in the system?
 

chapmajs

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Buena Vista, VA
Was the new pump rated in the 4-5 PSI range, or did you have to keep the pressure regulator you mentioned earlier in the system?
It's 4-7 PSI so I kept the regulator, which is definitely working. With the clear inline filter, I can see when the float closes and stops the fuel from entering the filter.
 

chapmajs

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Buena Vista, VA
That's good. The high end of that pressure range could overcome the carb.
Yeah that's been my experience with other generic electric fuel pumps. End up flooding out the bowl vent!

Any chance someone in central VA wants to swing by and help me dial in the timing? Pretty sure it's way late.
 

chapmajs

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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39
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Location
Buena Vista, VA
Well nevermind, looks like I *will* be doing a carb rebuild! After sitting with gas in the bowl for a little bit, the float filled up and it floods. Kinda figured that was too good to be true!

I looked into the no gauges issue and think I found the problem:
IMG_0224.jpeg

Nothing's hooked up! I rescind my previous statement about the rewire job being pretty OK. I see a new harness in my mid-term future. I did bench test the dash and everything seems to work, though someone did hook up the high beam indicator as a dash light. Couldn't test the speedometer, there's no cable in the dash and I didn't want to jam something that's not the right size in there.

I sat the dash on the fender and croc clipped it in so I could try and read oil pressure, but no luck. The gauge pegs out when the sender wire is touched to ground, but does not read anything when connected to the sender by the dipstick. I'd guess bad sender...I *hope* bad sender!
 
Last edited:

glcaines

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Hiawassee, Georgia
Threw a new parts counter 12V fuel pump on in place of the original, changed inline fuel filter, runs and drives now. It has a boat fuel tank in the bed, guy I bought it from had the original gas tank but someone had, for whatever reason, cut it in half. Fortunately, the tank straps are still in place.
If the tank halves are in good shape, you can get the tank welded back together.
 
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