• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

First Attempt to Start MEP 803a

ZackMan

Member
47
1
6
Location
Virginia
I recently acquired a MEP 803a with 363 hours. I changed both fuel filters, ensured the coolant was full, changed the oil and oil filter and recharged the original batteries that came with the unit (Optima Red Tops with 800 CCAs). Both batteries have 12.56 volts each via of a digital volt meter. I also performed a battery load test on each and they were in the acceptable range. Before I attempted to start it, I cut on the panel lights and there was nothing. Secondly, I attempted to start it by using the Master Switch and nothing. I then went to the dead crank switch and the engine turned over, but did not start.

I reviewed the TM's troubleshooting section and as a result checked the DC Control Power circuit breaker (CB1) located behind the control panel and it was energized (pushed in). There was not much else other than FU1 which was intact as well.

It seems that current is amiss somewhere. I am stumped and I am sure there are other tests I have missed.

I am requesting feedback as to what may be my dilemna. Any ideas and/or suggestions? Thanks.
aua
 

CT-Mike

New member
238
2
0
Location
CT
I just had a similar issue with mine today during my initial start following fuel drain valve replacement. Would dead crank fine, but when I tried to start it I got nothing but a clunk sound, like something was pulling too many amps not allowing enough current to the starter. Eventually I dead cranked it for 15 seconds, took the dead crank switch to on, and immediately hit start. Worked like a champ, and the problem hasn't reoccurred in several subsequent starts.

It will not start using the dead crank switch - that exists to turn the engine over without allowing it to start.
 
Last edited:

ZackMan

Member
47
1
6
Location
Virginia
Okay everyone, I followed DieselAddict's lead in regard to the Emergency Stop button. It was pushed in and that's why I had no panel lights or Master Switch activity. Thanks DieselAddict and CT-Mike for your responses.

I am now going to try and start the engine. If I can't, "I WILL BE BAAAACK."
 

ZackMan

Member
47
1
6
Location
Virginia
Even if you can you should come back and tell us about it. ;)
Thanks for the reminder DieselAddict. I was able to start the engine and ran it for 5 minutes and everything checked out okay on the panel with the exception of the AC Volts gauge which did not go above 140 volts. I turned the voltage dial but it had little effect on the numbers. I also noticed after shutdown that the right side of the engine seemed to have some oil leakage up top where the top and bottom halves attach. I will follow this one closely. The fuel injectors were dry and so I am concentrating on what I think is an oil issue for now.

If any of you have any ideas, you have my complete attention and thanks!!!
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,486
1,890
113
Location
Efland, NC
What do you have the voltage selector behind the instrument panel set to?

What is the voltage on the convenience outlet when you adjust the voltage knob?

When you turn the voltage knob all the way to the right do you get an overvolt alarm on the alarm panel?
 

ZackMan

Member
47
1
6
Location
Virginia
What do you have the voltage selector behind the instrument panel set to?

Voltage selector is on 120/240

What is the voltage on the convenience outlet when you adjust the voltage knob?

I'll need to go back and check this one.

When you turn the voltage knob all the way to the right do you get an overvolt alarm on the alarm panel?
When I turned the Voltage Knob all the way to the right, there was no alarm.
 

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,486
1,890
113
Location
Efland, NC
OK. That doesn't always happen.

See if you can take the voltage reading at the convenience outlet across the range of the voltage knob.

Also check and see what the setting of the voltage output switch is behind the control panel.
 

ZackMan

Member
47
1
6
Location
Virginia
Okay, I went back out to the MEP 803a and checked the selector switch behind the panel and it was set on 120/240 one phase. I then checked the panel itself and ensured that the AM-VM transfer switch was set to 1 phase L3-L1 position. I started the unit and checked the frequency meter (60 hertz) and AC Voltmeter (240 volts after I adjusted the Voltage Adjust potentiometer).

Previously, I may have had the AM-VM transfer switch in the 1 phase L3-L0 position which may have caused the anomaly. All seems to be running okay for now.

Oh by the way, the voltages at the convenience switches were 121.5.
 
Last edited:

Chrispyny

Member
294
12
18
Location
NY
Good to hear that it is up and running, and hopefully the oil leak is a minor fix.
I haven't taken possession of my 802a yet as im waiting for my EUC to go thru ( uuuurrgghhh) but from all the reading i have done here, i distinctly remember reading that the 802 and 803 engines had occassional head gasket issues. You may need to replace your head gasket. Keep a very close eye on the oil and coolant levels and condition.

Good luck.
 

ZackMan

Member
47
1
6
Location
Virginia
I haven't taken possession of my 802a yet as im waiting for my EUC to go thru ( uuuurrgghhh) but from all the reading i have done here, i distinctly remember reading that the 802 and 803 engines had occassional head gasket issues. You may need to replace your head gasket. Keep a very close eye on the oil and coolant levels and condition.

Good luck.
Chrispyny,

Thanks for your response. I will take note.
 
Top