• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

First MUTT

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Hello everyone, my name is Kyle. New to the site and after years of searching finally picked up my first A2. I tried joining the G838 forum but have to wait till they fix it. My MUTT is a 1973, was cut but in such a way that the frame rails we're untouched. Hard to explain, but it was in three pieces. The reweld looks done correctly too. I will post pictures soon.

My father and grandfather got me hooked on MVs when I was a kid and my dad owns an A1 that sat for 25 years unfortunately, and the body is pretty shot. He originally drove an A2 in the Army but he could only find the A1. I'm still hoping to salvage it somehow in the future.

Look forward to learning what I can here to keep my A2 on the road and bring my dad's A1 back to life with your help.
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
2,090
44
48
Location
Maine USA
Welcome aboard, although I do not currently own one I have restored 5 mutts, some whole, some half cut and one x cut.
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Thank you. Have you ever come across one cut from the front roughly 3 in up from the frame along the front fender to the floor boards then out to the sides below the seats the n back in along the rear fender Wells roughly 3 in and out the rear? From what I can see it was in three pieces this way. I have read/ seen pictures of the typical cuts, this one is unique in that the supporting rails are untouched.

I'm working on the brakes right now. First was the oil change and ignition Gremlins. Went to solid state I believe Swiss controls. Had signs of bad coil turned out to be a loose points plate ah the simple things. She is in pretty solid shape from what I can tell.
 

SturmTyger380

Active member
482
31
28
Location
Easley SC
Welcome. It sounds almost like the Y cut method of demill. Making these M151's so no one should be able to use them was up to the local units that had them at the time they were sold out.

We need pictures! :-D
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,025
113
Location
London England
Welcome to the site and hobby. It would be nice to see some pictures of your truck though, and then pictures of your ongoing progress with the renovation.
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Hello everyone. It's been awhile and I posted some new pics. I am currently replacing the entire hydraulic brake system and had a question on whether the hub needs to be torn apart to get the wheel cylinders out. The TM says they should be able to slide out from behind the hub but the cyliders mount for the brake line is too thick to slide past the slot. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

More picks to come soon. Thanks
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Thank you for the compliments. She is a strong runner. I thought about converting the radio by removing the guts and converting it to AM FM. This way it looks the part yet plays music. I plan on driving her around quite a bit. I am curious about the radio and the double antenna setup though. Any one have knowledge on this set up?
 

hambone

Well-known member
288
508
93
Location
El Dorado, Ar
Good looking A2, I own a few myself, the wheel cyls are a tight fit, just loosen the axle nut a couple turns and the spindle will pull out far enough to change the cyl. :wink: Hambone
 

WIZ87

Member
34
0
6
Location
North East Ohio
Update: I removed all brake lines, wheel cylinders, brass blocks, pedal assembly, and wheels. I'm replacing all brake components, pedal assembly bushings, master cylinder as well as repacking the bearings. Cannot for the life of me find a new brass blocks for the rear rubber lines. The existing one looks like a modified intermediate block which in turn caused premature wear on the rubber lines. Any one have a source for these? I thought of modifying a front block because it has the long bracket for added clearance. This issue also has me questioning the routes for the rubber lines in the rear. Does anyone have a clear picture?

With the wheel bearing seals. If they are in good shape and tight should they still be replaced? Front two are great, back two are shot which allowed for moisture intrusion. I also cannot find the special tool or a comparable one for removing the outer bearing from the hub/spindle. Any suggestions on tools for the seals and bearings/races would be greatly appreciated.

I have also new tires and tubes ready to be installed as well. Hope to have her back on the road soon. I will post new pics soon. Thanks everyone.
 

nattieleather

Well-known member
1,884
133
63
Location
Cleveland, OH
Congrats on the new ride. It looks good. I knew a few guys back in the day who would Y cut the mutts to get them off the DRMO lot, but would make reweld easy. Yours might be one of them. Take a look at RAPCO http://www.rapcoparts.com/ you might be able to get the brake parts you need there. Mark Dodd is the owner and a straight up guy.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks