FLU 419 alternator bracket broken.

[joeblack5]

[h=2]Copied this post from the test forum to start new thread.

FLU 419 alternator bracket broken.[/h]

Today i worked on getting the alternator to charge. Figured that the polarity relay was the culprit.

Kind of a pain to work around EMP / EMI filters behind the alternator.
That was only taking of , putting it back on is going to be more complicated.
Then i found that the alternator bracket was broken where it was previously welded.


Removed the battery polarity protection relay and also the EMI filters to get a little more space in the future.

The bracket was Migged on one side ,penetration about 25%. Now that i have it off, I will TIG it from both sides and maybe add a brace.
Did not test the alternator yet.

Found a deteriorated rubber / braided hose that runs to the little black square container behind the alternator. It has a little dipstick . Did not look yet what that is about.

If their is anything wrong with posting images this way please let me know. Not sure if attachment are better the insertion in the thread. If this is better of in the Unimog section then maybe it can be moved to the appropriate section.

Later J​

 

[joeblack5]

When I had the bracket on the bench it was warped. Welded the tab back on and while it was still warm was able to straighten the whole bracket.
Here is a picture .

I am no welder as you can see but time will tell how bad I am. On the screen in the background when Mom and I picked up Mogli from Gnadenhutten ,OH.

Tested the alternator and it seems to put out current at 900 RPM so I will mount it , remove the EMI filters and polarity relay and see if it works. More likely if I can get it to work.

Later J

Later J

 

[joeblack5]

Put the bracket and alternator back in. Thank you for the wiring documentation that explained some extra wires I head and were not in the simple schematic. Page 22 of the flu419 handout .Wire 140 and wire 141 are hooked directly to the alternator and go to the DCA connector. I think for me that DCA connector has no function and funny enough these wires bypass the EMI protection filter on the back of the alternator so that the alternator is sensitive to a nuclear EMP again.

I could use some advise regarding the significance of the little tube that run from the top of the power steering reservoir to the engine hour counter?

Was not able to finish the complete wiring but testing shows I have no voltage on the Field wire. So bad connection or a burned out alternator indicator light.

Later J

 

[joeblack5]

Put the alternator back in without the EMI / EMP filter and had to make the battery and field wire longer and with a larger lug. The charging light did not work so i applied 24 volt for a second to the field lug and the battery voltage jumped to 26 Volt and the tachometer started working. So that was good.

Set the idle on 1200RPM and played with hoe a little. The right Boom cylinder is leaking. Funny enough the with the hoe all the way extended 4" above ground it does not drop. Unfortunately the leak did not stop and it comes out pretty good, solid stream.
That seemed to be the only leak for now.
tested the engine speed switch and the bucket switch, both worked.
Folded the hoe back on the truck and had a problem with one locking cylinder not releasing. Helped it out with a crowbar and after that it worked fine.
By the time I was all done the hydraulic cooling fans came on although it felt hardly warm.



Drove it around a little and it stalled out. Reprimed and it started immediately so i think the fuel filters are clogged and it starves
Could not get the Hi Low slide shifter on the transmission to work, not sure if it is stuck in high or low. all other gears seem to work. When I revved it up to 1800 Rpm the alternator came back to life without me having to jump the field so that was lucky.

Most of the outer hydraulic wiper seals are hardened and gone , wondering If I can split a seal and find a way to keep it in place?
Anybody about the 6MM hose from the power steering reservoir to engine hour counter?

After an hour with a nice warm engine the oil pressure at idle dropped from 50 to 20. A little low I think.

Although I did not get any tools with the FLU I did find the bucket attachment tooth



later J

 

[joeblack5]

So ...after.... reading the manual it is not the hi lo but the intermediate that I could not get to work. Probably I did it wrong. Read something about having to depress the clutch and the clutch switch actuates the solenoid? Need to read the owners manual a little more.


Later J