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This buzzer is supposed to alert the operator of problems when sitting in the backhoe seat (from which the warning lights and buzzer in the cab are not noticeable). The test button on the dash is to verify the functioning of that buzzer. You have to hold the test button for a while to make the buzzer go off - if it is working. My rear buzzer is shot but I at least get 24 Volt on the wire during the test. Since the original part is Unobtainium for reasonable money I am thinking to replace it with two cheap 12 Volt buzzers wired in series.A year or two ago somebody mentioned the possibility of a second warning beeper, somewhere in the system.
Well, when taking apart the switch box for the loader and high rpm to fix a switch, guess what I found?View attachment 715364
That means that the backup alarm one can go bye bye, and there may still be a warning for low oil pressure, high temp, or whatever this one is supposed to shriek about.
Brent, I have a similar issue on my SEE. I think that FLUs right in regards to the rear tank. One thing I definitely know is that the valve immediately adjacent to them (on page 4-313 of TM 5-2420-224-20-2) is the valve that supplies air to the trailer brakes. It strange that you asked this question tonight because I'm actually sketching up an air line schematic for myself to try and clean out the whole system now that I have some time to myself again. Let me tell you that you'll be amazed at the amount of debris that build up in our air lines. The good news is that Wabco is still making all the valves (I think) that are used so you can get direct replacement for those that are too far gone corroded (see attached picture of one of the valves on mine before TLC). You may also want to check the protection valve on page 4-332. It also has lines that go to the read gladhands.
If I finish this schematic of the whole system at a glance this weekend I'll post it.
I tried to buy some from Freightliner and was told they are in the computer but not able to be ordered. Went online searching for them with no luck. Ultimately ended up rebuilding the exact one you posted the pictures of. They are very simple to rebuild, but a royal pain to remove, as everything has to be put on and taken off in order. I ended up almost taking off all the airlines in that area before I could unscrew the regulator. Be very careful when you put it all back together again, as I adjusted the regulator for a little too much air pressure, and must have blown a hose somewhere as none of the air driven accessories work now. Haven't had time to try and search for the problem, but hear air purging under the center console when driving it now, so it should be a small area to find the problem.
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