FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

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kombisutra

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Kermit gettin' some! That -looks- a little precarious there, but I'm sure you had that program down long before you attempted moving that heavy lathe. What's the poundage on that thing? 1000lbs? The lock-out doesn't sound that hard to make from your words, I've never seen an HMMH though.

Looks like I may have burned up the drum on the printer at work trying to print out the 1000 plus pages of the FLU419 -35 manual. Ooopsy! : )
 

bchauvette

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You said you had less that 30 days to go. When we got toward the end of our tour in Viet Nam (spelling is correct) We would declare our sellfs as being short. Probably for "Short Timer". We would draw a cartoon-ish picture of a helmet sitting on top of a pair of boots with just the boot toes and heals showing underneath the helmet, making sure everybody saw the picture so we could gloat. We would get more and more vigilant as rotation time drew near.

God Speed on your return home.
 

kombisutra

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Thank you for your service, and the little visual from that time so long ago. We call it "getting short" just like we did when we were active duty. We use all the same jargon day to day as well, military courtesy, it's just natural. We're all veterans for the most part on my contract. Much more respect is due to you for your time in Viet Nam, as I'm more as a mercenary -by definition- over here, and you were in one of the worst conflicts in US history. I know they had contractors back then too, and we all have important jobs that we do, but being that they're paying me Unimog Bucks for being here, I can't accept all the respect often sent my way. Yes, I am part of a team that saves lives and that is honorable, but that they do pay me, gives me a different kind of identity than what so many might wish to applaud me for. Mercenary seems to fit, but thanks, I'm expecting my trip home through Amsterdam to go smoothly... only to come back here again after a month off.

Here's an image from the desert from the drive up:419 In The Desert Lights.jpg

Wait til you see the pictures of the blow-out!
 
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kombisutra

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Question: Is there another common and domestically available wheel with the same bolt pattern as the FLU419/406/416? I would rather buy some cheaper, easier-to-find wheels to sacrifice for the low-ceiling carport passage application I have. Gotta' dig in the back yard, but access is only through a low ceiling in the carport. Is the Unimog Bolt Pattern common?

Also. Here on base, I found a needle in the haystack, in that I went out one day on my bike, actively searching for the missing 419 I had seen on base prior to my last R&R, and while I didn't find it (still haven't), I actually DID find a 406 Transmission, on a pallet, preserved, taped-up, and... abandoned in a ditch... along with a nice 20,000lb hydraulic winch and a Bosch Fuel Pressure Pump. Unfortunately, I'm not going to be able to ship the transmission home, but I wanted to ask: is there anything INSIDE this transmission that I should attempt to remove for future use or to sell/barter to someone in need? The Transmission I believe came from the Canadian Compound before they departed.

Here are a few images:photo4.jpgphoto3.jpgphoto7.jpgphoto5.jpgphoto6.jpg

Thanks for your knowledge. Standing by!

Brian
 
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kombisutra

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I just checked yesterday, and yep, it's all still there. I think I'll grab the fuel pressure pump, and bring it in and start washing it up in the parts washer. Can someone ID the application that the pump possibly was used for?
 

kombisutra

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Here's a 419 I studied up in Bagram before bidding on mine. The bed is supposedly off a Hummer Trailer. Thinking after cutting down my ambulance box, I may have about the same overhang. I have more detai images of this one if any body is curious.
 

mkcoen

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Now that the GL auctions are back on I'm hoping to join the club. Unfortunately when the majority of these were coming out a few years ago I wasn't in a position to get one. Think I've finally convinced the wife it'd be better than paying double that to buy a small tractor that couldn't do half the job.
 

kombisutra

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Well, I'm home on R&R now and DIGGING IT! Literally! The 419 and I are getting acquainted on the home digging job that I had talked about. The second set of wheels I intended to modify for extreme low-ceiling carport use are fortunately NOT required after lowering the tire PSI to 20 on the fronts and 5 on the rears (after removing the Case Back Hoe. Yes, I'm digging with the loader and taking full buckets with no back hoe attached. The reason for pulling the back hoe was clearance... again the ceiling of the car port I have to run dirt through is about three inches above the cab -and that's after removing the FOPS over the cab AND the exhaust can up top. The machine is doing an admirable job, but the extreme off-balance weight distribution absolutely DOES have the rear wheels come off the ground when elevating buckets stuck in the earth, when full... very, very, very light on the rear.. I have a 1500 pound Toro Dingo I use for clean-up, and I'm very much considering using the hard points on the the two machines and simply hanging the Dingo off the ass end to balance it out.

Question time: When I switch the machine into either four wheel, or four wheel differential locked, the air pressure leaks down and the screaming buzzer of death indicating the air pressure -hence brake assist- is dropping. There is seemingly a leak in the system when this four wheel or differential locks is switched on, but not when in simple two wheel drive. Have any of you other 419 / 406 Savvy drivers ever experienced this and could I get a tip as to where I might check to stem the leak?

Thanks for any input.
 

bchauvette

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The air lines going to the diffs where completely rotted on mine. Also the airlines going to the 4WD engage cylinder on top of the transmission was loose. You need to tilt the cab to get to it.

I drilled holes through the center of the back hoe mounting pins and use a hydraulic porta power to pull the pins . You can also use threaded rod and pull it through by turning the nuts . Grease the pins first. You need to remove the left side rear taillight assembly for clearance. I also ground chamfers on the pin mounting ears and tabs for easier alignment.

I hope you chained the back hoe legs together. The assembly will sag to a point where you won't be able to catch it to install.

Did you connect the feed and return lines together on the MOG side? It will raise **** if you didn't and someone engages the PTO. Be sure to rout the line over the round cross member on the MOG side when you re-connect the back hoe.

I made a How-To. I'll post it as soon as I find it.
 
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N Arizona

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Well I guess I need to join this thread. Here is my Unimog. Does anyone some commercial part numbers for the filters (Oil, fuel, Air, ETC) for these trucks? I can not seam to find them. Thanks
 

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kombisutra

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Santa Rosa California
The air lines going to the diffs where completely rotted on mine. Also the airlines going to the 4WD engage cylinder on top of the transmission was loose. You need to tilt the cab to get to it. I drilled holes through the center of the back hoe mounting pins and use a hydraulic porta power to pull the pins . You can also use threaded rod and pull it through by turning the nuts . Grease the pins first. You need to remove the left side rear taillight assembly for clearance. I also ground chamfers on the pin mounting ears and tabs for easier alignment. I hope you chained the back hoe legs together. The assembly will sag to a point where you won't be able to catch it to install. Did you connect the feed and return lines together on the MOG side? It will raise **** if you didn't and someone engages the PTO. Be sure to rout the line over the round cross member on the MOG side when you re-connect the back hoe. I made a How-To. I'll post it as soon as I find it.
Exceptional advice! Thank you VERY much for the input on the rotted and loose lines, that sounds like what I'm dealing with. Yes, I put a jackstand under the center of the back hoe to prevent the sag, and I use a highly effective Harbor Freight Farm Jack (direct copy of Hi Lift) to move the unit side to side, up and down and I'm optimistic that re-installation won't be too much of a bear. Your advice on the pins, as well, VERY appreciated! Brilliant! No, I did not join the two lines off the back while running the front loader via the PTO, but since the rear system and front system are separate, I'm hopeful I'll be ok. I'll join them later today, again, thank you.

Standing by looking forward to your HOW TO post later.
 

tennmogger

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Air to the diff locks can certainly leak if the hoses split, but the locking cylinders inside the axle can leak also. Leaked air goes into the rear/front axle, through the diff, up the torque tube, and exits out the transmission. Sometimes you can hear a bad leak by putting a hose/stethoscope in the dip stick hole of the tranny. Maybe I should spell that out..transmission.

The cause is dry o-rings seals on the locker pistons. Part of normal maintenance is to flush lightweight oil through the hose/tube going to each axle's locker. That oil is then drained from the locker cylinder by removing a small plug in edge of the diff assembly. (not talking about the diff fill or drain plugs). This is in the 406 Unimog manuals, but I am not familiar with the SEE manual.

Where: The flex hoses are located where the lines flex (not trying to be a smart A) and that's at the joint of the transmission to torque tubes on both front and rear. On my 406's, this tube is simply a braided rubber line with hose clamps. 1/4" rubber hose will fit but I have been replacing bad ones with single wire hydraulic hose. Single wire hose flexes just fine and will probably last a lifetime. (Easy to cut with abrasive wheel.)

Bob
 
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kombisutra

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Wow! Bob... you're amazing... you have EIGHT UNIMOGS!! Daaaaayyyyymmm! It must be fun at your place!

Thank you for the detailed input about the locking cylinders. I have seen the oil procedure in 406 handbook I have, and while the German to English translations are sometimes difficult to understand, your description of oiling those cylinders helped confirm what the handbook was saying. I am hot on the trail of reproduction 406 manuals out of Germany right now, but that will be a while. I DO have the complete set of US ARMY SEE service manuals that arrived today from Kandahar, complete, in four binders, all 2500 pages printed from the PDF manuals found online. Looks like I'll be opening them up tonight.

Regarding the original 2 part Mercedes Unimog manual set: I bid on an English set on Ebay a couple weeks ago, and I threw down $350 to ensure I would get em' and all be **** if I wasn't out bid! I went through Gaggenau while last week for the Merex 25th anniversary, and Rene said Mercedes sold the rights to a German firm to reproduce the vintage manuals. The suggested price for the 406 manuals as he stated, was VERY reasonable: with shipping something like $150. This... for new manuals. Very nice to hear.

Ok. Back to the regularly scheduled program...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjoqlcV7YG0
 

bchauvette

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Getting Kermit ready for the rally. Mounted the front winch and pintle hitch. Fabricating jump seats. Gonna have 10 gals of extra fuel,a Baofeng UV-5RE Plus and GRMRS. Ready for any rescues Kermit can help with. Will be hauling him on the M1061 behind Ken's M923A1.
 

bchauvette

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IMG_0179.jpgIMG_0181.jpgIMG_0182.jpgIMG_0183.jpgIMG_0414.jpgIMG_0898.jpgIMG_0899.jpg

The channel is C8X11.5 or 2-1/4X8X30-1/2. The original bolts are just long enough for full thread coverage with out any lock or flat washers. The slots are to clear the gussets. Notice the right slot is deeper than the left. The assembly needs to be installed at an angle and slipped to the right to by pass the round bucket mounting thingy on the left. The cables run through where the front PTO would come through. There is a piece of garden hose around the positive cable in that area to prevent chafing. The ground is bolted to the chassis. The positive is directly connected to the battery. Keep in mind the pos cable is not fused. A short circuit could be catastrophic so route the cable carefully.

There is a battery switch connected to the chassis and the negative terminal. The MOG battery disconnect isolates the ground. The additional switch is so the winch current doesn't go trough the MOG disconnected switch.

Ther are some really nice winches for sale on the site.

How do you like my winch installation tool? it's green to. My favorite color.
 
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ACUF

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Just got my SEE today, glad I found this thread and joined the group of 419 owners. I have other Unimog, but these units seem to be much more robust than the MB equivillents, etc. I am interested in getting ahold of some of the printed materials, or at least links to the PDF out there. I already have the operators manual on PDF , but sounds like there's service material out there too. Thanks for getting this thread started.



ACUF
 
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