FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Migginsbros

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Howdy... today we found one SEE tire looking like bad pressure. Only 1.5 bar/20.7PSI on one wheel. Attention please. Last time with a little bit less pressure the tire collapsed and got into the rim. No chance to fill him up with common tools. Have to take off the wheel and bring it to a tireshop. So we immediatly fill up the tire.
Have a nice day.
Migginsbros
 

Migginsbros

Well-known member
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Location
Berlin-Germany
Ahab you´re right , definitely more . We have many monasterey in duty in Germany. Know a girl ( some years older than me) .She has some problems living in this world. Sometimes she go to the Buddas religion plant near Berlin. After weeks or month of holding talks or working in the garden she come back to the city, for a new try.
Cheers, stay save.
(y)
 

peakbagger

Active member
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Location
northern nh
Howdy... today we found one SEE tire looking like bad pressure. Only 1.5 bar/20.7PSI on one wheel. Attention please. Last time with a little bit less pressure the tire collapsed and got into the rim. No chance to fill him up with common tools. Have to take off the wheel and bring it to a tireshop. So we immediatly fill up the tire.
Have a nice day.
Migginsbros
I had all four of my tire stems fail as the sealing rubbers on the stems were deteriorated. I expect you have already replaced them but many owners may not realize they should be changed. I find some non original one that would work but of lower quality than Mercedes. I have since gotten Mercedes replacements and will change them out when I next have the tires off.

I did buy an air cannon type bead sealer. It worked on tire that I could not seal with ether. Its is lot safer and less dramatic than ether. One caution is when the handle is pulled it does have considerable kick back so brace yourself.
 

Migginsbros

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Location
Berlin-Germany
I've had them come off the bead at maybe 15 psi, but don't you have the official air-up-from-the-SEE hose??
Of course we have the air hose as a tool on board. The SEE is piggy back sitting on the MAN F2000. It works with the Air line from the shop. But if you reach the moment the pressure drop to let the tire jump into the rim bed, you have a problem. ;)
 

glcaines

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I finally got tires of some of the fuses in my FLU419 not making good contact. When something didn't work, I always had to rotate the appropriate fuse back and forth until good contact was made. I purchased a whole new set of original fuses from EI. After removing the fuses, I cleaned the terminals in the fuse holder with a small wire brush hooked to my Dremel. I have a corded Dremel tool so it would have been easier with a cordless model, but this ~40+ year old tool still works well. I tried cleaning them on low speed, but that didn't work as well as I liked, but high speed did the trick. I cleaned all 48 terminals very carefully. After installing all of the new fuses, I measured the resistance between each end of the fuse and the terminal with a VOM and each was making good contact. Now, everything is working. After repairing the fuse holders, I drove 45 miles round trip to town for fuel and some other chores. I'm impressed about how good it runs, but also impressed with the lack of power on the highway. I live in the mountains with very steep hills. On one hill I was limited to 20 mph. On the level sections I averaged 40 mph - any faster scares me, especially on curves.
Cleaning Fuse Holder Terminals With Dremel.JPG
Fuse Holders With New Fuses.JPGFuse Holders With Covers.JPG
 
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Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
I purchased a whole new set of original fuses from EI. After removing the fuses, I cleaned the terminals in the fuse holder with a small wire brush hooked to my Dremel.
View attachment 826686
There are some conductive anti-oxidant gels on the market that you might want to consider for those terminal ends in the fuse box:

- I can't speak to the name of the product, and I really don't know enough to advise you properly

But The FLU Farm or somebody wiser like him might chime in here about this.
 

Guyfang

Well-known member
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
I finally got tires of some of the fuses in my FLU419 not making good contact. When something didn't work, I always had to rotate the appropriate fuse back and forth until good contact was made. I purchased a whole new set of original fuses from EI. After removing the fuses, I cleaned the terminals in the fuse holder with a small wire brush hooked to my Dremel. I have a corded Dremel tool so it would have been easier with a cordless model, but this ~40+ year old tool still works well. I tried cleaning them on low speed, but that didn't work as well as I liked, but high speed did the trick. I cleaned all 48 terminals very carefully. After installing all of the new fuses, I measured the resistance between each end of the fuse and the terminal with a VOM and each was making good contact. Now, everything is working. After repairing the fuse holders, I drove 45 miles round trip to town for fuel and some other chores. I'm impressed about how good it runs, but also impressed with the lack of power on the highway. I live in the mountains with very steep hills. On one hill I was limited to 20 mph. On the level sections I averaged 40 mph - any faster scares me, especially on curves.
View attachment 826686
View attachment 826688View attachment 826689
I laugh and laugh every time I see these fuses. The exact same ones I had on every VW bug and bus I owned. We all carried a handfull in the glove box. As everyone knows, it pays to be careful putting them in, and taking them out. The caps come off easy. A few months ago, someone came in my recycling yard, with a 5 liter bucket full of these fuses. Opa, (Grandpa) had passed and the kids were cleaning out the basement. Opa had owned the VW garage in town here. These type fuses are still easy to get here, but VW bug and bus parts are better then gold. I told the kids to put any car parts, in Ebay. Like gold. A friend of mine needed a replacement engine for his bug. Had to order a short block from the States. Postage was a killer. Since he was still working for the US Army, he could have it sent to his APO address. Still was pricey.
 

glcaines

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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
There are some conductive anti-oxidant gels on the market that you might want to consider for those terminal ends in the fuse box:
- I can't speak to the name of the product, and I really don't know enough to advise you properly But The FLU Farm or somebody wiser like him might chime in here about this.
A friend of mine recommended Permatex brand Non-Conductive grease. I was suspicious that non-conductive grease would cause problems with contact. I sent an e-mail to Permatex Technical Service asking the question and they told me that putting the Permatex Non-conductive grease on the fuse ends and terminals was a good idea. I was very skeptical and still am so I didn't put the non-conductive grease on. However, I haven't found any Conductive anti-oxidant grease that wasn't specifically designed for aluminum or aluminum to copper connections. I've previously used Permatex Non-conductive grease on high voltage Pin and Sleeve connectors to make them easier to insert and remove and had no problems.
 

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
But The FLU Farm or somebody wiser like him might chime in here about this.
When/if I get around to play with the fuses - at this point only a taillight or two works, but all the useful stuff still does - I'll put some dielectric grease on there. That may not be what you had in mind, Ahab, as it's non-conductive. But that's what generally used on electrical connections to keep them from corroding, and to keep moisture out.

By the way, glcaines, it looks awfully clean under that hood. Will you at some point wax the SEE, too?
As far as I know, only General Hood used to do that.
 

Speedwoble

Active member
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Location
New Holland, PA
A friend of mine recommended Permatex brand Non-Conductive grease. I was suspicious that non-conductive grease would cause problems with contact. I sent an e-mail to Permatex Technical Service asking the question and they told me that putting the Permatex Non-conductive grease on the fuse ends and terminals was a good idea. I was very skeptical and still am so I didn't put the non-conductive grease on. However, I haven't found any Conductive anti-oxidant grease that wasn't specifically designed for aluminum or aluminum to copper connections. I've previously used Permatex Non-conductive grease on high voltage Pin and Sleeve connectors to make them easier to insert and remove and had no problems.
Usually the grease gets scraped off are the point of contact. I use it. Conductive grease is at risk of making shorts between terminals.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
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Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
When/if I get around to play with the fuses - at this point only a taillight or two works, but all the useful stuff still does - I'll put some dielectric grease on there. That may not be what you had in mind, Ahab, as it's non-conductive. But that's what generally used on electrical connections to keep them from corroding, and to keep moisture out.

By the way, glcaines, it looks awfully clean under that hood. Will you at some point wax the SEE, too?
As far as I know, only General Hood used to do that.
I got lucky. When I received the SEE, it was mostly very clean inside and out. The engine compartment was also very clean. I don't think it had been used since it came back from Iraq. There was no dirt on it, only desert sand here and there. The tool compartments were loaded with sand. No waxing for me! I got the SEE to dig trenches on my property, not to look good!
 

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
- I'll put some dielectric grease on there. That may not be what you had in mind, Ahab, as it's non-conductive.
I use NO-OX-ID compound on terminal connections, on the recommendation of a Sparky I know.

But almost everything electircally-related is like VooDoo to me, And I thought it was conductive but likely isn't. Listen to me with extreme caution!

And of course I hit my head once as a child, and really nothing has ever been right on my end since.
 
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