FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

MSMOG

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84
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8
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Jackson, Mississippi
I wish. But the Zerk's holes would still be at the ends, not on the sides, so the only result would be that the plumbing becomes more problematic.
With any luck, this particular "problem" cylinder may be the only one like it on a SEE. If they were common, surely someone else would've noticed these issues within hours of taking possession of their "new" SEE.
In my case (no pun intended) this one has been parked since I bought it in February, with one exception for a photo op, and was intended to be a parts car. While checking/changing fluids and lubing would've normally happened very shortly after delivery, and definitely before any actual use, it didn't.
Now that it'll become the regular, working backhoe, I'm scrambling to get it fully operational before winter sets in.
If we even get any winter to speak of, since I have all but guaranteed that we won't by converting the other SEE to a snowblower. Impatiently awaiting the ordered fittings and hoses needed to finish that project.
Well I'm sure you can get a couple new holes drilled and threaded before dark... And if I had an HMMH, I wouldn't need a proper jack to remove the front end loader. Ie, I must need an HMMH.
 

FOD

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Interesting, did you reverse them accidentally or did they come that way? I'll have to check that out.

As an update I pulled the plug that sits on the filter housing and cranked the motor, only a small amount of fuel came out. I then tried the hand pump to get a feel for comparative volumes and it was a lot more flow. Leads me to believe the issue is the fuel pump either not taking a good prime due to air ingestion or something mechanically with the pump. I'm going to connect an electric fuel pump tomorrow to see if I can observe flow back at the return and verify the entire path is open. Does anyone know how the overflow that goes back to the tank from the injectors works? I want to make sure I don't pump a gallon of fuel directly into my cylinders or something stupid like that.

I also checked the vent and it seems ok.

Fuel system troubleshoot update...problem solved.

So the culprit was the fuel shut off valve. I learned that the valve is not a standard ball valve even though the valve body and 1/4 turn style give the impression that it is. If you remove the valve body there are port holes (much smaller than line size) which lead up from the body into the head and back into the body. These ports had significant plugging. It started right up after cleaning and reinstallation. I apologize for not getting pictures but I got too excited and forgot. After seeing how the valve guts are configured I highly recommend taking it apart and cleaning it if you haven't before (it's an 18mm pressure fitting btw).

I bought a small electric pump to use during the troubleshooting. I left it inline after the fix and I think I'm going to wire in a switch to allow quick startup in case of main pump failure or future troubleshooting. I ran the machine like that for a good 30 minutes while using the backhoe and the system did not seem affected by the pump sitting there idle.
 

The FLU farm

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FLU Farm, wasn't there one of the Army cartoon service bulletins that dealt with that particular zerk issue?
I don't remember the solution, but they had a recommendation.
Mark, thanks for the tip. I can't recall seeing that one, but then I probably haven't read them all yet. Anyway, I think it's a rarity, or others here would've noticed it.
What I have started reading, again, is this thread from the beginning. Lots of good info which went over my head when I read it the first time. Now, after having had a few fights with these machines, some of it makes much more sense.
And I feel sorry for speedwoble after seeing what he started with. Rat damage being but a minor obstacle to overcome.

Today has, so far, been filled with truly minor obstacles. I've started to wonder if things would've been easier had this particular SEE not been overhauled. Which must've been on a Friday afternoon. Which may help explain why it never made it to the paint shop.
Today's findings include loose fasteners on the steering arm and a disconnected hose also on the right side. No clue what it does (must be air, for something out by the wheel hub) but at least it's now reconnected.
Also, this one seems to have ended up at a quickie lube. Several things appear to have been greased on one side, but not the other. And the king pins were definitely lubed with the vehicle weight on them - and I doubt that the military would make such a rookie mistake.
Another simple task has turned into over half a day's worth of work. Thankfully I'm down to the last grease cartridge, so not much more lubing until another case is ordered and delivered.
But don't get me wrong. Not for a second do I regret buying the FLUs. It's been a lot of work, and it's far from over, but I can always sleep, and relax in general, after I die.
 

The FLU farm

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Climb, Brother; though the road be rugged. :beer:
Hey, I can't whine too much. Especially after getting reminded of speedwoble's SEE, and keeping in mind that this was supposed to be a non-functional parts car.
But I am disappointed in how it was serviced. Even a quickie lube should've noticed that all four reduction gear housings are low (possibly even empty). Also, the front axle is a bit low.

Sure glad I'm not one of the several here who drove their SEE home, some for long distances. This one probably wouldn't have made it.
 

MSMOG

Member
84
1
8
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
I wish. But the Zerk's holes would still be at the ends, not on the sides, so the only result would be that the plumbing becomes more problematic.
With any luck, this particular "problem" cylinder may be the only one like it on a SEE. If they were common, surely someone else would've noticed these issues within hours of taking possession of their "new" SEE.
In my case (no pun intended) this one has been parked since I bought it in February, with one exception for a photo op, and was intended to be a parts car. While checking/changing fluids and lubing would've normally happened very shortly after delivery, and definitely before any actual use, it didn't.
Now that it'll become the regular, working backhoe, I'm scrambling to get it fully operational before winter sets in.
If we even get any winter to speak of, since I have all but guaranteed that we won't by converting the other SEE to a snowblower. Impatiently awaiting the ordered fittings and hoses needed to finish that project.
yeah, I looked at mine again today, and they seem to be where they are supposed to be. The bottom one is recessed so it doesn't shear off (as easily) when the bucket is curled and rested on the ground.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Moon another note, the 54" farm Jack will require modification. Not sure when, how, or why, but the front end loader fell over since I was here yesterday. I think the o my damage is some scuffs to the concrete. Must have been those **** feral cats.

image.jpg

Lastly, I found this pic in one of the civi Unimog manuals.

image.jpg
 

General Hood

Member
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18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
So what's the difference, General Hood, between one that sits unused in a government lot and yours that sits unused in your lot?
At least the gov. boys could probably get theirs started if they wanted to. (Sorry, couldn't resist kicking you while you're down).
That was a kick, especially since Ive been down with the flu bug :-(
 

The FLU farm

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Moon another note, the 54" farm Jack will require modification. Not sure when, how, or why, but the front end loader fell over since I was here yesterday. I think the o my damage is some scuffs to the concrete. Must have been those **** feral cats.

View attachment 650563
Yeah, you really should look into using that "receiver" and a more proper jack setup.

And speaking of proper, who in their right mind would replace the tie rod, and reuse the old tie rod ends with shot seals?!?DSCN1387[1].jpg
This is the kind of stuff I keep coming across. Okay, I'm done with my rant. I hope. Well, for today anyway.
 

FOD

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Has anyone else experienced an issue where your backhoe boom would not retract far enough to re-engage the boom lock? The hydraulics appear to all function fine with the exception of that last 3 inches of travel to retract the boom. Got it back on with a helpful push from another tractor but hardly convenient.
 

The FLU farm

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Has anyone else experienced an issue where your backhoe boom would not retract far enough to re-engage the boom lock? The hydraulics appear to all function fine with the exception of that last 3 inches of travel to retract the boom. Got it back on with a helpful push from another tractor but hardly convenient.
Had I not read about it in earlier posts, I probably wouldn't have figured it out myself. Anyway, pull the boom back, then when it starts to slow down, push the lever forward.
It's an over-center design.
 

FOD

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Had I not read about it in earlier posts, I probably wouldn't have figured it out myself. Anyway, pull the boom back, then when it starts to slow down, push the lever forward.
It's an over-center design.
I'll give it a shot, thanks for the tip. I don't remember reading about it but I guess when you try to digest 115 pages of material in short order you lose some...although maybe it was too much booze while reading.
 

Mark1954

Member
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6
Location
Midland/Abilene/Llano TX
I don't think its possible to rat proof a SEE. Most of the harness damage occurs behind the dash which is easily accessed from the engine compartment. Mine had a hole chewed in the steering wheel boot when I got it, along with a brand new boot in a box. I think the prior owner of mine was trying to restore the truck to military condition which is fine but those nice boxes with Mercedes part numbers that arrive in the mail inevitably cost an arm and a leg. A chunk of thick resilient rubber gasket with a couple holes in it looks like a nice way to seal that boot.

On slightly related note I am curious if rapid prototyping would be good way to replicate rubber parts for the SEE. I think the RP would make the mold versus the final piece but its something to consider.
Has anyone else used the Balsam Fir Oil anti-rodent packets from the Tractor Supply chain. I have had good luck in buildings and autos. Didn't know where the best place to put or hang packets to repel mice/rats from dash wiring. Any suggestions?
 
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...who in their right mind would replace the tie rod, and reuse the old tie rod ends with shot seals?!?
Not sure if he was in his right mind, but apparently the same guy who worked on mine. Looks like they blew out in the late 90's. Anyone seen replacements, or maybe just keep them greased up till they actually die?

Ooh, and was it you talking about the LED headlights? Got a part number I can paste into Amazon? I have a true talent of buying all the wrong crap.

Edit; I always heard that mothballs keep all the bad critters away from yards, and presumably FLU's as well. Guess we'll find out, I'll throw them in a sock somewhere under the hood.
 
Last edited:

Migginsbros

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Location
Berlin-Germany
MSMOG, the jack and the loader must build a unit. We build a steel nose that fitted exactly into the original place at the loader. We secure with a pin.
So it is almost safe if the loader moves a little bit into softer ground or due to pressure loss.
SEE jack 003.jpgSEE jack 002.jpgSEE jack 001.jpg
SEE jack 004.jpgSEE Front Loader 002.jpgSEE Front Loader 003.jpg
 

Tinstar

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Has anyone else used the Balsam Fir Oil anti-rodent packets from the Tractor Supply chain. I have had good luck in buildings and autos. Didn't know where the best place to put or hang packets to repel mice/rats from dash wiring. Any suggestions?
A product called "Fresh Cab" that is also at Tractor Supply.

Works wonders in my RVs and MVs. Smells great too.

No issues with mice at all since I started using it.
 

The FLU farm

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Ooh, and was it you talking about the LED headlights? Got a part number I can paste into Amazon? I have a true talent of buying all the wrong crap.
There are quite a few to pick from, Gadget, but I searched "LED work light" and autvivid (ASIN B00XMT9534) came up. Just make sure that they're 60-degree (not 30) and multi volt. Well, I prefer the wider 60-degree versions, your results may vary.
Now, if you actually meant LED headlights, you're on your own. I have a pair of really nice JW Speaker lights, meant for my pickup, that I still haven't managed to make housings for. Would I put them on a SEE? Absolutely not.
I don't think it matters what kind of headlights a SEE is equipped with, since the bucket, loader, and hoses, makes them all but completely useless. Which is why I like replacing the factory work lights with those cheap LED lights.
 
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