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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

profo

profo

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jeanerette,la
They were owned by a guy whos name was Dan who would not sell just one door, so he sold them to a Richard who didn't want the passenger door but didn't want to sell it anyway either, so I just totally just reskined mine and it came out good.:roll:
 
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profo

profo

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jeanerette,la
Cleaned up the back deck today finished mounting the hydraulic welder/Generator 250 amp weld/5.5 kw generator to the bed, moved the cooling fans to center,mounted oxy/acetylene bottles, had to tie into the back hoe hydraulic circuit with a diverter valve to get enough flow for 200 amps of welding but everything works great.IMG_1376.jpg
 
A

adavis

New member
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Location
Washington....state that is.
FNG checking in. Purchased my 419 2 months ago and am loving it. I'm having one **** of a time finding a part for it though....any chance someone knows where I can get a part for the hydraulic valves for the front end loader (the valve body behind the cab)? Here's a picture of mine (kinda easy to see the two pieces I need).......

I've tried searching the "classifieds" but must be doing it wrong....I can't find a single ad for anything "419" "SEE" or "unimog". Does anywhere in the country part the FLU419 out or is there a place with a large inventory of 419 parts? I've tried dang near everywhere with no luck.
 

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Another Ahab

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
profo said:
Cleaned up the back deck today finished mounting the hydraulic welder/Generator 250 amp weld/5.5 kw generator to the bed, moved the cooling fans to center,mounted oxy/acetylene bottles, had to tie into the back hoe hydraulic circuit with a diverter valve to get enough flow for 200 amps of welding but everything works great.]
Click to expand...
I was curious what the liquid container is carrying.

What are you using that for?


jug.jpg
 
BnaditCorps

BnaditCorps

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479
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Location
Solano County, California
Another Ahab said:
Well, you know, the man IS from Louisiana:

- It gets hot down there.

- There's the chance it could be for all his sweet tea. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...
1) You do not know hot until you have lived in California, during a drought. At least in Louisiana there is humidity, here we just have hot hot hot, oh and by the way, more hot.

2) that is valid i guess, he best not throw that of the truck while fording a river though, might cause a war:mrgreen:
 
profo

profo

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jeanerette,la
BnaditCorps said:
1) You do not know hot until you have lived in California, during a drought. At least in Louisiana there is humidity, here we just have hot hot hot, oh and by the way, more hot.

2) that is valid i guess, he best not throw that of the truck while fording a river though, might cause a war:mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Yall are are correct but it's beer!!!!!!!
 
mkcoen

mkcoen

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Spring Branch, TX
Looking at a SEE right now and wondering about a couple of the issues listed. None of the gauges or the heater are operational. That sounds like a ground issue or issues but wanted to check with current owners to see if there is a systemic type of failure that would cause this. Also it's stated that the rear hydraulic controls are non-operational but has pictures with the backhoe both stowed and extended. Is there any way to extend the backhoe if the controls aren't working or is this likely a typo?
 
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peakbagger

Well-known member
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northern nh
I had similar issues with mine which had been in Texas for awhile. A rodent decided to build a nest behind the dash and ate part of the wiring harness. The nest and damage was not visible until I removed a lot of stuff like fresh air ducts and the fuse box and part of the harness. It took awhile to fix as there is no wiring diagram available and all the wires are black with no color coding. The majority of the circuits all are individually grounded behind the dash at one common ground point (also inaccessible without removing stuff) so its probably not a ground issue.

There is known issue with the rear hydraulic cooling fans wiring that allows water into the fans, this shorts out the fuse that supplies much of the power to the back of the truck including various solenoids on the hydraulic system. The actual backhoe hydraulics do not require electric power and will work to stow and retract the backhoe but the various solenoid switches that control the remote throttle, the hydraulic accessory hose reel the remote operator of the front bucket and the rear equipment lights will not work with this circuit blown. These components will work if the 16 amp fuse is replaced but if the hydraulics come up to temperature and the fans turn on, the circuit will blow again.

Good luck, looks like there are several for sale in Texas on Government planet
 
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P

peakbagger

Well-known member
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northern nh
I have been spending time trying to get my air system to work as it stopped working previously. The air system is obviously integral to a lot of systems. It took me awhile as parts take awhile. I did swap out the air pressure regulator initially but that didn't do it. I ended up disassembling a lot of the system from the alcohol injector to the air tanks. I never found the proverbial "smoking gun" but did find a lot of rust and grit in the system. I also found that the air pressure regulator does not have a internal screen that is shown in the parts break down. The source of the grit and rust is two fold. There are two technical bulletins on the SEE that apply. The first bulletin regards the alcohol injector reservoir, The cover is only accessible with the backhoe in operating position and its quite easy for someone to step on it and damage the reservoir. Once the top of the reservoir is broken, it will fill up with grit quickly. The technical bulletin calls for mounting a piece of metal adjacent to the cover to prevent stepping on it and marking it "no step". Mine was broken and all the tubing and the alcohol injector was full of grit. The springs on the isolation valve of the alcohol injector appear to rot out so even if you don't open the valve, it may open by itself. If it does open that is a direct shot right into the air system. There is also a technical bulletin that the air line that runs from the air pressure regulator that is attached to the frame rail to the air tank side of the truck tends to rust out from the inside out. The bulletin recommends replacing it with stainless steel tubing. I elected to replace it with copper nickel tubing. Some prior repair person had installed 3/8" copper tubing in place of the 10 MM tubing using lots of Teflon tape to get it to seal. While working on the air pressure regulator, I found a lot of corrosion inside the fittings. The system still had issues so I ended up removing and cleaning most the tubing and the secondary air regulators. When I put it all back together after hooking an air compressor up to the piping, it started working again.

Given what I found, I would recommend considering a similar clean out of the air system if your system is balky. At a minimum it may be worth removing the plugs on the tanks and blowing out the grit.

The SEE will get parked for the winter pretty soon so I have all winter to track down an alcohol injector rebuild kit or swap it over to a more readily available unit. Still its nice to have this behind me.
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

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The actual midwest, NM.
Forum newbie

Hi all,
Now that I joined Steel Soldiers, hopefully I'll find the time to read through at least some of all the good info posted in the forums.
For now I'll be busy getting my "new" HMMH fully functional, once it arrives later this week.
Then it seems like a near must to park it next to my SEE for a photo.
 
Another Ahab

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
The FLU farm said:
Hi all,
Now that I joined Steel Soldiers, hopefully I'll find the time to read through at least some of all the good info posted in the forums.
For now I'll be busy getting my "new" HMMH fully functional, once it arrives later this week.
Then it seems like a near must to park it next to my SEE for a photo.
Click to expand...
Yes, a photo please of the "family".

And welcome from here in Virginia.
 
bchauvette

bchauvette

New member
810
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0
Location
Easley SC USA, 29640
Bucket Hydralic hose shut off valves

Found out the hard way why there are ball valves on the bucket hydraulic hoses. There are push pins shut off valves inside the nipple if there is pressure there you can't make the connection. The pin won't push in. You have to take the nipple off to relive the pressure. Working the control levers with 3 hoses connected didn't work. I accidentally opened the valve while trying to make the connection.

IMG_0417 - Copy.jpg
 
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