• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

911joeblow

Active member
507
68
28
Location
Utah
OK newb question... The center master off switch in my truck seems to do nothing. I would assume that with it off, the ignition would NOT get any power. I my truck I can start the truck and drive away with everything working with the master off. Is it jammed in the ON position?
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
OK newb question... The center master off switch in my truck seems to do nothing. I would assume that with it off, the ignition would NOT get any power. I my truck I can start the truck and drive away with everything working with the master off. Is it jammed in the ON position?
There was a quantity of those switches (125) on the auction block a few weeks ago. I'm not sure if anyone on this forum got them, but it's a possibility
 

911joeblow

Active member
507
68
28
Location
Utah
I am missing the skid plate under the front of the truck, does anybody have one? Also a pic or two would be nice also so I know what I am looking for! Thanks!
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,291
1,225
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Do you mean the FLU flu?

Or do you mean the flu flu?!
It's the FLU flu. The one I bought last Wednesday arrived this morning (the model from Australia was bought later the same day, in a celebratory sort of way).
Of course today started at 1:30 AM, and has been a bit bittersweet. That's when I was woke up and asked if I could dig a grave first thing in the morning.
Not even for me, but for a horse that had to be put down last night.
Not overly popular, but I had to meet up with the driver at dawn instead, to guide him to the homestead. Got the non-runner FLU10344 unloaded and parked, then fired up the SEE for a couple of hours of digging in rock.
Then swap to the tractor for back filling since there's no loader bucket on the SEE now.

Eventually I got a chance to start looking the HMMH over, and was impressed. Lots of new stuff, and with a few exceptions it's also very clean.
Long story short, I couldn't resist at least trying to start it. There was something funny smelling in the fuel tank. Not much dirt in the primary filter. But it wouldn't prime. Filled the primary again, primed again, and...it fired. Rough at first, but eventually quite smooth running. So much for its non-running status.

The fuel gauge doesn't work (looks like it has a new sending unit) and the Volt meter doesn't seem to read correctly (it won't go over 24 Volts), but the darn buzzer sure works.
Now I need to find a way to get my hands on an electrical schematic, and a hood. In my tired state, the two seem to be connected, somehow.

More tales to follow.DSCN1307[1].jpgDSCN1311[1].jpgDSCN1314[1].jpgDSCN1322[1].jpg
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,826
4,161
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
The SEE looks great!

But, in spite of that, I am sorry that you had to put an animal down.

Interesting rock that you dug up, all cobble; wondering if you're in an old glacial zone. It sure looks that way.

The Midwest might be one of their southernmost zones. Do you have any idea?
 
Last edited:

BigBison

Member
317
1
18
Location
Yampa, CO
The fuel gauge doesn't work (looks like it has a new sending unit) and the Volt meter doesn't seem to read correctly (it won't go over 24 Volts), but the darn buzzer sure works.
I was questioning the 26V my HMMH gauge always reports. At 800rpm idle, an external voltmeter (at the NATO plug) shows 26V, but anything over 1,000rpm says 28V. If I rotate the knurled faceplate of the buzzer counter-clockwise, it shuts off. Clockwise, turns it back on. Prolly just some corrosion or rat-nibbling, but I figure if the bevel's knurled it's meant to be turned? Wish I had access to my SEE for comparison.

Anyone know if the "proper" FLU batteries are gel-type?
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,291
1,225
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Interesting rock that you dug up, all cobble; wondering if you're in an old glacial zone. It sure looks that way.

The Midwest might be one of their southernmost zones. Do you have any idea?
I'm guessing that the little river (behind me as I took the photo) was noticeably larger at some point in time.
But it must've been a while since there's now a couple of feet of dirt on top, even near the river.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,826
4,161
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
The SEE looks great!

But, in spite of that, I am sorry that you had to put an animal down.

Interesting rock that you dug up, all cobble; wondering if you're in an old glacial zone. It sure looks that way.

The Midwest might be one of their southernmost zones. Do you have any idea?
I'm guessing that the little river (behind me as I took the photo) was noticeably larger at some point in time.
But it must've been a while since there's now a couple of feet of dirt on top, even near the river.
That rock sure could be from an old river, but apparently there was PLENTY of glacial activity all over Ohio, so who knows:


 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,291
1,225
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I was questioning the 26V my HMMH gauge always reports. At 800rpm idle, an external voltmeter (at the NATO plug) shows 26V, but anything over 1,000rpm says 28V. If I rotate the knurled faceplate of the buzzer counter-clockwise, it shuts off. Clockwise, turns it back on. Prolly just some corrosion or rat-nibbling, but I figure if the bevel's knurled it's meant to be turned? Wish I had access to my SEE for comparison.

Anyone know if the "proper" FLU batteries are gel-type?
In the SEE I usually have to play with the disconnect switch for a while after starting it, or it'll go to 32 Volts - not good for the new Optimas.
Got a new switch the other day, but have yet to install it. If it even is the actual problem.

Since the charge light goes out, I'm suspecting the Voltmeter. One of several things for tomorrow's fun and games.
Cleaning and tightening the fuses might fix a few of the electrical issues. The buzzer is the easiest fix - just unplug it. Although, this HMMH seems to build and hold pressure so well that I might let the buzzer stay intact for a few days. As thick as the paint is, it'd be hard for anything to leak.

I don't recall the name for the correct size batteries, but they're basically square wet batteries.
Interestingly enough, the HMMH had two regular car batteries in it, both showing 12.7 Volts. Never did check again after all the cranking, and then driving a bit.
Another odd thing was the LED work lights in the rear. Now I don't feel so bad about having switched to (much cheaper, I'm sure) LEDs on the SEE and the "old HMMH".DSCN1316[1].jpgDSCN1324[1].jpg
DSCN1320[1].jpg Oh, and someone wondered what the skidplate looks like. Nothing much to it.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
It's the FLU flu. The one I bought last Wednesday arrived this morning (the model from Australia was bought later the same day, in a celebratory sort of way).
Of course today started at 1:30 AM, and has been a bit bittersweet. That's when I was woke up and asked if I could dig a grave first thing in the morning.
Not even for me, but for a horse that had to be put down last night.
Not overly popular, but I had to meet up with the driver at dawn instead, to guide him to the homestead. Got the non-runner FLU10344 unloaded and parked, then fired up the SEE for a couple of hours of digging in rock.
Then swap to the tractor for back filling since there's no loader bucket on the SEE now.

Eventually I got a chance to start looking the HMMH over, and was impressed. Lots of new stuff, and with a few exceptions it's also very clean.
Long story short, I couldn't resist at least trying to start it. There was something funny smelling in the fuel tank. Not much dirt in the primary filter. But it wouldn't prime. Filled the primary again, primed again, and...it fired. Rough at first, but eventually quite smooth running. So much for its non-running status.

The fuel gauge doesn't work (looks like it has a new sending unit) and the Volt meter doesn't seem to read correctly (it won't go over 24 Volts), but the darn buzzer sure works.
Now I need to find a way to get my hands on an electrical schematic, and a hood. In my tired state, the two seem to be connected, somehow.

More tales to follow.View attachment 647201View attachment 647202View attachment 647203View attachment 647209
I'm waiting to see that fiberglass hood you are planning for the newest member of your FLU family. Will it have an ornament, like a chrome hand grenade or something? I'm thinking you might consider building a school bus barn, but for your FLU collection. Utah Green looks to be a fine HMMH you have there Jimmy
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,291
1,225
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I'm waiting to see that fiberglass hood you are planning for the newest member of your FLU family. Will it have an ornament, like a chrome hand grenade or something? I'm thinking you might consider building a school bus barn, but for your FLU collection. Utah Green looks to be a fine HMMH you have there Jimmy
Nah, the 'glass hood will go on the (former) parts SEE. It has a rusty, never painted to be exact, hood which I can paint OD to match the new "parts HMMH".
And once again it seems like the "parts car" actually is nicer and/or better than the one it was supposed to complement.
And I did start looking for a way to cram the new one into the garage. Where there's a wheel there's a weigh...or something like that.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Oh, the SEE from Australia is likely way too small to tow anything. It supposedly looks like the one in my avatar.
But today I got the real FLU. Again. It's a sickness.
I thought about buying one of those models, but thought about what I'd have to do to make it look realistic (thick mopped on paint that's chipping, rust spots, vines growing up through the engine cowling, chewed wiring , and loader bucket full unknown parts from another poor MV) We ALL want to see pics once you have it properly displayed at the actual Flu Farm
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks