anthkey
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since there is never a passenger.....
I'm tired of sweating my A** OFF.....
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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group
- Thread starter Migginsbros
- Start date
since there is never a passenger.....
I'm tired of sweating my A** OFF.....
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Smart move to leave the rod end attached, making it stay in a good position for working on it.
The downside was that you worked on it in the sun, which prompted the custom A/C installation, right?
rtrask
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Progress:
I am not sure which hit on the starter / solenoid did it., but it is off the street and in the back yard.
To start it, I need to run jumper cables from the battery to the engine block, and the solenoid. When I connect the negative cable to the block with the positive cable still insulated, there are sparks. That tells me two things. First there is no connection for the ground. Is that because of the master disconnect switch? Speaking of which, this is what mine looks like, no leaver to switch it on or off. The other thing is there is a positive connection, and there is a short somewhere.
I think from here I will pull the starter, change out the fluids, replace filters, put on v-belts and bleed the breaks, and remove the master disconnect switch.
I am not sure which hit on the starter / solenoid did it., but it is off the street and in the back yard.
To start it, I need to run jumper cables from the battery to the engine block, and the solenoid. When I connect the negative cable to the block with the positive cable still insulated, there are sparks. That tells me two things. First there is no connection for the ground. Is that because of the master disconnect switch? Speaking of which, this is what mine looks like, no leaver to switch it on or off. The other thing is there is a positive connection, and there is a short somewhere.
I think from here I will pull the starter, change out the fluids, replace filters, put on v-belts and bleed the breaks, and remove the master disconnect switch.
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Once you have the correct key for the master switch (which does interrupt the negative side), your starter may work.
EI has them. And get a battery box/hood key while you're at it, if you don't have one already.
Edit: If you want to make your own key for the master switch rather than wait for one, let me know and I'll give you the important measurements.
There's not much to it if you make your own, but any old key that fits may not be good for the switch, I've learned.
Modifying an existing "universal" (usually they have a red handle) key may be the quickest way.
EI has them. And get a battery box/hood key while you're at it, if you don't have one already.
Edit: If you want to make your own key for the master switch rather than wait for one, let me know and I'll give you the important measurements.
There's not much to it if you make your own, but any old key that fits may not be good for the switch, I've learned.
Modifying an existing "universal" (usually they have a red handle) key may be the quickest way.
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anthkey
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NA... had my cover..still lost @ 4 lbs.....
next time I will have my AC UNIT THERE...
View attachment IMG_2535.mov
911joeblow
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Start spraying Anti seize or WD40 etc into that master disconnect. Mine was rusted closed so yours might be rusted open. I have a new switch but since it freed up I have avoided tilting the cab a little longer with mine.
alpine44
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- Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
The master disconnect can be switched on for testing by pushing a bole into the hole. The dedicated key does the same via cam action of a radial pin.
You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking it through the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out to one side.
If you are really in a hurry, a tire valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
You can make a temporary key by pressing a bolt or dowel down and marking it through the end of the cam grove. Then, cross drill the bolt/dowel in that location and insert a pin that is small enough to ride in the grove. Pin only sticks out to one side.
If you are really in a hurry, a tire valve cap and a small screw driver will do the trick too.
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General Hood
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Good ideas, should be included in the unreleased revised edition TM for the FLU419
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Based on my experience with using things other than the real key, or at least something with the correct measurements, I would limit the use to brief testing.
It could certainly be a coincidence, but my switch is not reliable, and that could have something to do with using a twig at first, then one of those common keys with the red handle.
I tried spraying penetrants in there, shimming the depth for that common key with washers, but it wasn't until getting the correct key that the switch started acting better.
I'm guessing that too much use while having insufficient pressure (not enough depth in the "key") made it mad at me.
I did buy a new switch, but it does NOT look like fun to replace it.
Grab a screwdriver and test it, Ron, just don't push down too hard, or not enough, on it.
alpine44
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You can feel when the contacts close. The internal spring compresses a little beyond that. Too little pressure and you may get arcing, too much and you may crack the switch housing
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Exactly. And I suspect that I ran with too little pressure (the twig was a press fit in the hole, so I couldn't really feel the contacts) and got contaminated contact surfaces in the process.
rtrask
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I will try to test it later today, in the mean time I followed 911joeblow's advice and sprayed some PB blaster in the socket. I was not sure until I started getting responses if the key was removable, or if the switch was broken. I gave it a tentative poke yesterday and it did not seem to move, so trying to dissolve some of the accumulated corrosion makes since to me. I honestly did not try much so it may have been OK, but I don't think the lubrication will hurt anything.
I looked on EI web site, and was able to find the complete switch with the key, but not the key by itself. There are a lot of aftermarket battery disconnect switches out there for a lot less than the 82.50 that EI wants, but I will take one step at a time and now that I know the issue, I can work around it.
Thanks to everyone that provided insight.
I looked on EI web site, and was able to find the complete switch with the key, but not the key by itself. There are a lot of aftermarket battery disconnect switches out there for a lot less than the 82.50 that EI wants, but I will take one step at a time and now that I know the issue, I can work around it.
Thanks to everyone that provided insight.
alpine44
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Here is the key on the EI site. (They put it under Pinzgauer)
I would try to get the existing switch to work due to replacement cost and effort. There is really not much complexity inside these switches.
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peakbagger
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EI has a lot of inventory and not a lot of staff and getting everything entered in the right place is on going project. I think they are out in Europe right now. Best idea is if you cant find it on the website is start up a support ticket and they will get back to you when they return.
General Hood
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Diesel fuel dropped to $1.95 locally today. I loaded the SEE bucket with 5 gal scepter fuel cans and made a run to the Quick Trip. It's been a long time since I've paid under 2 bucks a gallon on diesel fuel
Another Ahab
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Dang! I should've bought that fuel bowser and headed your way. Then again, it sold for so much that it would've taken many, many trips to make it pay for itself.
scottmandu
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Just saw that episode today.. I wonder what became of it?
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Except for the window glass, tires, and hoses, it probably morphed into iron oxide. It is Hawaii after all.
Another Ahab
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You nailed it there, TFF. By default every steel vehicle is a "transformer".
It's all just a matter of time.
Pretty funny.
