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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Migginsbros

Well-known member
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Berlin-Germany
To clean the original screen is not the problem. I use a needle to free the pore.
IMG_5918.jpg


But we don´t want to remove the tank, remove the sending unit to install the filter.:wink:
Perhaps some day if it is absolutely necessary to pull the tank we install a filter.
Previously we storrage both filters.
 

Foxyjosh

Member
53
0
6
Location
Northeast /OH
Well If you ever get to the point to pull the tank, there is a way to clean the inside.

I restored a Trojan wheel loader (proof of concept model only 500 were built), anyway the tank was full of rust. Once we had the tank off, we put large square nuts in the tank. (The hex nuts don't work as well) Then we strapped the tank to the wheel of a tractor, got the wheel off the ground and ran the tractor in first gear for about an hour. That removed the heavy rust. Then we used a Locktite product to kill the remaining rust after pouring out a pile of rust and the square nuts.
 

The FLU farm

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I've done the mechanical tank cleansing (although it wasn't for rust) using chain, and it's no fun.
For rust I'd use N-Terpinal, Evapo-Rust, or something similar. If one is really lazy, fill the whole tank. Otherwise, with the tank removed, I'd put enough in to cover one flat section at a time.
But since it's reusable, there's no real reason not to fill the whole tank, other than having to buy enough to fill it to the brim.
 

Nick30605

Member
31
0
6
Location
Atlanta GA
Question about the front loader. I finally got the truck running and the front bucket will curl up and down perfectly. Although, the boom on the front loader will not come up. I checked the travel lock pins to make sure they were not locking anything in place. I previously greased all the zerk fittings. I checked the level of hydraulic oil in both tanks and it appears to be fine. I’m still not able to raise the boom on the front loader. Am I missing something?
 

alpine44

Member
397
16
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Question about the front loader. I finally got the truck running and the front bucket will curl up and down perfectly. Although, the boom on the front loader will not come up. I checked the travel lock pins to make sure they were not locking anything in place. I previously greased all the zerk fittings. I checked the level of hydraulic oil in both tanks and it appears to be fine. I’m still not able to raise the boom on the front loader. Am I missing something?
Are the handles of both valves close to the QD fittings (left front of vehicle) aligned with the fittings/hoses?
 

alpine44

Member
397
16
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Both of those valves are open. Parallel to hoses.
There is a safety relief valve on the cross member close to the hood. It connects the hard lines for raising and lowering. If that is stuck open, you will not get pressure on the loader cylinders. The rubber hoses will move slightly if you are building pressure against the pistons of the loader cylinders.

If the loader cylinders are stuck you will hear a hissing/squealing sound from the pressure limiting vale behind the cab when you move the Up-Down lever.
 
Last edited:

Nick30605

Member
31
0
6
Location
Atlanta GA
There is a safety relief valve on the cross member close to the hood. It connects the hard lines for raising and lowering. If that is stuck open, you will not get pressure on the loader cylinders. The rubber hoses will move slightly if you are building pressure against the pistons of the loader cylinders.

If the loader cylinders are stuck you will hear a hissing/squealing sound from the pressure limiting vale behind the cab when you move the Up-Down lever.
It's working now. I had to move the boom up and down 1 inch at a time for about 20 minutes to loosen it up.
 

IdahoFLUzer

New member
1
0
0
Location
Idaho
Hi ! Just picked one up this summer and have been moving dirt for two months with (almost) no problems...
Garden Valley, Idaho
1990 FLU419 SEE
3200 mi , 680 hrs
 

FarmMOG

New member
42
1
0
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
Interesting find today working on the front hydraulics. Ever since I bought the SEE a few months ago, the front hydraulics were not working correctly. The bucket would tilt like it should, the arms would go up but not down, and the float position was inop as well. Even the electric switch on the back station wouldn't work correctly. I really started trouble shooting everything yesterday by switching the hoses around, thinking the servo pack was messed up and wondering how much it would cost to rebuild. I finally narrowed the problem down to something in front of the quick disconnects. I looked up the check valve from the TM. It called for a LTF-8-125, so I called the local hydraulic shop and he said bring it down so he could look at it. After some research, he found out it was not a LTF, but a C something(can't remember exactly). It turns out this was a one way only check valve, and that what was causing the fluid lock when trying to lower the arms. I bought an adjustable relief valve which is what all they had. After installing it everything works like it should. It is crazy to think the loader never worked correctly after rebuild. The valve was painted, so it was used for at least a short time. Every hose except one had been replaced, probably thinking that was the problem.
I just thought I would share this story with you, as there sure could be some other wrong parts installed from the overhaul facility. A picture of the old valve is included below.


Check Valve.jpg
 

FarmMOG

New member
42
1
0
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
If it was installed backwards, which it sounds like, did you try turning the check valve around?
It had a big arrow painted on the side showing one way fluid transfer. The hydraulics shop guy took the valve apart and compared it to several different types of Parker valves, which is what this is. He showed me the shuttle valve and how it was not the correct one. It was designed to only allow fluid to go thru one way, and not both ways as required for the loader arms to go both up and down. He said it was a completely different model than what was listed in the TM.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Hmm. I recall seeing them referred to as check valves elsewhere, and I think I've seen the arrow on mine, although stamped, not painted. Do you have a part number handy for your old one? It'd be interesting to see if it matches anything I have.
By the way, my loaders' valves are plumbed differently, so in theory one of them shouldn't work. Both do, but it did make me research those valves some time ago.
 

FarmMOG

New member
42
1
0
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
There were no part numbers stamped on it at all, which is why he printed out several pages of different valves and came up with his finding that it was wrong. The new one works like a champ and also allows me to adjust how fast the loader arms lower.
 

FarmMOG

New member
42
1
0
Location
Texas/Oklahoma
I do have a question about the front hydraulics. The fluid really heats up after driving it around some. I was hoping that fixing the issue with the loader arms would correct this problem, but it didn't. I took out the top filter and looked at it. There was some buildup of dirt, so my next thought is to replace it. I have looked online and the only thing I could come up with is request for quotes from different companies, I assume to buy large quantities of these, but I only need one. Does anyone have any suggestions or know where I can find a front hydraulic filter for sale. Part number is HC8700FUN8H. Thanks.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,286
1,212
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I looked for the front and rear filters initially, and found them to be painfully expensive. Thankfully, once I pulled one out I realized that there's no reason to replace them, just treat them to a simple cleaning - if even that is necessary.
Never did see even a spec of dirt on any of them, so in your case a flushing of the system may be in order.
 
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