FMTV Replacement Door Handle Upgrade

[BERZERKER888]

I certainly wasn't suggesting anything that was $300 (that's what the scalpers are raping people for the old pot metal NOS junk handles S&S used). I'm sure the same scalpers are getting $300 for the Trimarks by tossing them up on their sites as "super rare LMTV door handles". LOL. The new style handles can be found for fractions of that price, that's what I was suggesting. I had some in my cart awhile back that were $50 but then the A1R fell in my lap and it already had them. Very sorry to hear that you cut your finger, though.

I've found that the S&S door handles are reasonable robust... it's the cheap ass pot metal "actuator arm" is the weak point... the Trimarks would certainly do the job..but watching Dr. Neil and his surgical precision... i thought "that's a sure fire way for Berzerker888 to lose a limb"..! lol

 

[B-Dog]

You can't install those Trimark handles without the bezels. The handle is installed from the inside, the bezel goes on the outside and sandwiches everything together. They're well made. $200 is reasonable IMO. I don't believe those handles come with keys but I could be mistaken.

The picture austin hardware shows is misrepresenting. The bezel is shown in this picture, the handle is circled:



Here's the handle only. Drawings are available on trimarkcorp.com including the cutout template:

https://www.trimarkcorp.com/en/media/additional/030/30940-pg1.pdf

 

[BERZERKER888]

here is how Lord Neil V did the conversion.

 

[SrqRyan]

Yeah, I saw that video. Im the kind of guy that doesnt like throwing out a whole assembly when one tiny part is broken. A forum member showed me their fix, which is exactly what I had in mind. I can model that, and send them to a plasma table and have dozens and dozens of them burned out for a couple bucks each (mainly setup fees). In which case, I can mail them out to other people who have this problem and dont want to drop 180 dollars.

Not my first rodeo on that kind of thing. Replaced a number of failure prone plastic parts on exotic automobiles with fabricated aluminum before. It is my first rodeo on an LMTV though. This is fun.

Bringing up an old thread but since I can't PM, do you have any info on the actuation arm or have you had any luck?

 

[Ronmar]

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[BERZERKER888]

Bringing up an old thread but since I can't PM, do you have any info on the actuation arm or have you had any luck?

I fabbed up an aluminum actuator arm...easy peasy..been working perfectly for the last 2 years... let me dig around for the photos..

 

[charlesrg]

Here goes attached the bolt pattern for the Trimark door handle 30940-01 and 31853-06 in PDF letter paper, print and you have the cutout pattern ready to go.

 

[hike]

We finished building the last of the linkages this morning for our new Trimark's.

What an improvement over the MME versions: which had been installed reversed (passenger on driver; driver on passenger) and upside down, including the door catches, internals and a jury-rigged interior lock mechanism some one added since the interior's levers were all backwards inside the door. The Trimarks are all metal, no plastic cap for a locking mechanism and solid.

Now that we returned the door catches and internals to their original doors, built new linkages for the Trimarks the doors and paddles actually feel solid. @BERZERKER888 youtube was helpful and @Xengineguy machined doorlock buttons are going to look cool, too.

The only challenge is getting all six bolts in the Trimarks and tightening them up. Thank goodness for allened torx wrenches and patience—

 

[Third From Texas]

One of the best mods that I did to the truck was redesigning the linkage between latch and handle.
I'd tried replacing the OEM A0 plastic retainers.
I'd tried using metal Ford carbonator rod clips (basically what the A1R used).
All of which failed in very short order.
I even welded tiny washers onto the ends of the rods (which held up somewhat better but were a real PITA to tack on working inside the door).

I did away with using clips or inserts of any sort and went from 1-3 failures per year to zero (going on three years of daily use now).


The upper connection makes a "dogleg" that simply feeds thru the hole up on the latch.
It cannot fall down nor can it be pushed up out of place.

The lower connection (at the handle) is basically the same "L" bend as OEM, but instead of a plastic insert or metal retainer clip, the rod is threaded and retained by a locknut.

Again, I went from tearing open the doors and having to fix the damned things a couple-three times a year....to zero.

I've pulled the panels recently to check out speaker mounting options and while in there I pulled the rods (one nut, out the slide) and there is no wear on the rod nor on the handle/latch ends.

Here's a pic of the prototype I first tested, but you get the idea. The rod material is about .25" longer at the bottom (to accommodate the threads) and about .25" longer at the top to account for the dogleg. I wanted to remove any potential flex, so I doubled up the rod (but honestly, it might be overkill).

Anyway, just sharing for anyone tired of fixing their door latch rods.

 

[Ronmar]

In the one door I reworked I switched to toyota rods(larger diameter, commonly available clips) to go with the toyota 4runner handles I used. the trimark claw latch control was already setup for that diameter rod... been a few years of casual usage now, but havn't touched it since installation. been running toyotas for decades daily and have never had a door handle failure. There are currently 3 in my driveway, and my daughter and two grandchildren run 4 of them, one 86, two 2000 and one 2008, all the same latch and control config, without any issues...