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Found metal in my transfer case

x-ray

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Which bolt do you use to suspend it? Seems like there should be more than one. This is the only part of the process I'm a little unsure on. Also, it looks like it's going to want to tilt backwards if you hook up to it anywhere where it is exposed through the floor. Do you need to catch it back by the e-brake, as well? I think you could get to that between the cab and bed.
Going to use the one off to the right side. Also plan on suspending from below with the ATV jack and wrap with a side.
 

x-ray

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Its one of the bolts on the T-Case front cover, on the top passenger side. Not from the cover plate.

Kenny Kublo showed me how he hoists - removes that one bolt, has a special long hook (die hook?) and lifts by that one location.

In fact the replacement T-Case I got has that bolt already out - apparently how it was taken out.
 

Mike929

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Wow, is that how the military TM does it? Sounds like I need to stop and do some reading.

From the position of the mounts it looks like it was lowered into place initially to install, but I assumed that was done before the cab and bed was placed on the truck. Never thought there would be a procedure to go up through the cab.

Which TM covers this procedure?

Thanks,
Mike
 

chicklin

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Swapped mine tonight with the help of a buddy. Couldn't have gone any smoother.

You have to lift it in from below if the mounts are attached to the case. The passenger side mount cannot drop down from above (well, it could, but it'd be a real pain to wrangle it in there). You'll see why when you take it out.

Passenger seat out, floor panels up, 11 o'clock bolt/nut out of t-case (as you look at the front), put something long in there to suspend from the engine hoist poking through your passenger door opening. Unhook all drivelines, speedo cable, air connection and parking brake linkage. Support from below and pull all mount bolts, four on each side. Remove/lower underneath support, lower engine hoist and it's out.

Install is the reverse. Use that same lift point and get a couple of the front mount bolts in, then lift from below to "pivot" the whole t-case up to get the rear mount bolts in, then you're home free.
 

Mike929

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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DFW, Tx
Swapped mine tonight with the help of a buddy. Couldn't have gone any smoother.

You have to lift it in from below if the mounts are attached to the case. The passenger side mount cannot drop down from above (well, it could, but it'd be a real pain to wrangle it in there). You'll see why when you take it out.

Passenger seat out, floor panels up, 11 o'clock bolt/nut out of t-case (as you look at the front), put something long in there to suspend from the engine hoist poking through your passenger door opening. Unhook all drivelines, speedo cable, air connection and parking brake linkage. Support from below and pull all mount bolts, four on each side. Remove/lower underneath support, lower engine hoist and it's out.

Install is the reverse. Use that same lift point and get a couple of the front mount bolts in, then lift from below to "pivot" the whole t-case up to get the rear mount bolts in, then you're home free.

Sounds like a rebuild is in my future. I pulled the seat and floor panels, but would like to find a TM with detailed maintenance instructions before I drop it and open it up. Also need a parts list for Bearings and seals if anyone could point me to a listing.

Found a website that allows me to do searchs, this is what I have found:

TM-9-2520-246-34P which shows the military parts list, if someone has COTS equivalents that I could buy at NAPA, etc., plase let me know.

TM-9-2520-246-34-1 This looks like it gives me details on how to work on the transfer case.


I will start a new thread when I rebuild it and try to show step by step details. Here are some basic pictures using my cell phone just to show access to T-case through floor:
 

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x-ray

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I got my old transfer case out and new transfer case in tonite.

It took about 3 hours with 2 friends to complete and get things back in and together. In prep though, I took out the passenger seat, access panel and removed the universal joiunt nuts and bolts, lever linkage pin/bolt, and removed the spare tire a few days before.

I used a 1 ton chainfall from Harbor frieght hooked to a steel beam accross the cab to support the old transfer case down and the new one up. I also found the ATV/cycle lift from Harbor Frieght worked great for moving the TCs around and into position. Having the spare off is a must and made it easy to move things in and out. Chainfall definately made the job easy.

In summary My SOP was:

  1. Remove passenger seat
  2. Remove rear floor panel
  3. From above - remove Front Upper U joint bolts and T-Case lever linage bolt
  4. From below - A ) Remove Airline from T-Case B) Remove Tachometer cable from T-Case, C) Disconnect E-Brake cable from drum area. D) remove front U joint bolts and lower shaft to grount. E) remove Back U joint bolts and lower shaft to ground.
  5. Remove spare tire and get it out of the way
  6. Affix beam accross cab (we used steel beam)
  7. Set Chanfall in place
  8. Remove 11 o clock bolt from T-Case to be removed. & affix pin & lift hook (welded our own) and hook in chainfall to t-case
  9. losen the T-Case mounting bolts There are 4 longer bolts on the driver side and 4 shorter bolts on a plate/mount on the passenger side.
  10. after bolts are out, you can freely lower the T-Case with the chainfall. In our case, we lowered it onto the ATV lift and rolled it out of the way
  11. We muscled the new T-Case onto the ATV lift
  12. Moved it into position under the truck and hooked it to chainfall hook
  13. lifted up and aligned the new T-Case. Fiddle with it to get mounting bolts and holes aligned (swearing may help) :wink:
  14. We used blue loctite on bolts - apparently there was some on the bolts when they were removed and felt it prudent to make sure they didn't vibrate lose.
  15. Re Mount All U Joint bolts, E- Brake cable, and linkage.
  16. Disconnect Hook and remove beam and hoist.
  17. Fill up T-Case with fresh GL-5 Gear Oil Used pump from Harbor frieght (spent a few bucks there) that pumps it right from the bottle into the filling hole - called agear oil pump - every deuce owner should have this.
  18. Inspect for anything we forgot and re check all connections.
  19. Pick up tools and items under truck
  20. Start Truck
  21. Inspect T-Case and verify working by using in both high and low range & Test drive
  22. Celebrate a job well done.
If anyone in upstate or Western NY needs to borrow tools or needs a hand with this - drop me a PM
 
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