Fried fuse block and starting problems, M1009

[chmee]

I purchased a 1985 M1009 from an online auction. The fuse block is melted just above the flasher located in the lower rigt of the block. Also the turn signal lever only clicks down (left) 1 position and will not click up (right) at all. The headlights and flashers do not work at all. The glow plug light comes on, and shuts off after warming. The engine will turn over, but not start. I had to use a little ether to get it started in order to load it on the trailer.
My plan is to replace the fuse block with a new one and the turn signal lever switch as well. Could the melted fuse block be the problem that prevents the enine from starting? I am also concerned that whatever melted the fuse block may do so again if I am unable to determine the initial cause.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to the world of GM melted fuse blocks.

The CUCV fuseblock is wired differently than the civvy versions.

The fuse that is melted is for the headlights and also supplies power to the stoplight fuse.

You may find a member that has a spare wiring harness/fuse box.

Spend some time reading the CUCV Wiki and the Stickies in the cUCV Forum.

Download the free Techmincal Manuals and make sure you find the wiring diagrams in the Appendix of the manuals.

On the trun signal switch, check to see if the emergency flasher knob isn't engaged. The turn signal switch may need to be replaced.

The manuals has step by step procedures to check the no start problem.

Always make sure you have fully charged and load tested batteries before you start any troubleshooting.

DO NOT USE ether if the GP system is hooked up. You will BLOW UP your engine.

Tackle one issue at a time and you will prevail.

 

[chmee]

Thanks, I plan to try and locate the apparent short in the light wiring and put in an inline fuse rather than replacing the entire block. All the other fuses seem to be undamaged.

 

[bkwudzhom]

I can tell you from expirence that "WARTHOG RULES!" when it comes to electrical. Thanks again Wharthog!!

Here are a few tips I found helpfull:

1) Time and persistance needed when dealing with electrical. Have a rock handy to throw across the shop into an old metal garbage can. It will make al lot of noise and make you feel better without damaging anything.


2) Do yourself a favor and completely clean each junction/connection that you come to as you are trouble shooting. It will help you in the long run.

3) DO NOT assume you have a good connection because it just looks good. TRUST ME!

4) All the schematics are in the TM's and I found that getting them laminated extends their life in a shop enviroment, waterproofs them for when a nice cool beverage gets knocked over on them( don't ask), and allows you to keep up with where you are at and what voltages you get and where by writing on them with a grease pencil.

Good luck--letus know if you get stumped and some one here will be sure to lend a diffrent perspective and help you figure it out.