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Front axle seals and boots stepXstep

oddshot

Active member
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Jasper, Georgia
I replaced the boot and seals on the left side of my truck today.

Thanks to this thread I had an idea of what to expect and had the stuff that I was going to use to make a puller at hand ... all I had to do was cut it to fit.

The cross piece is an old steering wheel puller ... I had 2 so cutting down one was no big deal.

The length I cut it down to is 2 1/4 inch. At that dimension it fit against the seal perfectly.

The bolt is from an old harmonic balancer puller ... it threaded into the steering wheel puller so I didn't have to harm this at all.

The bracing piece is just an old piece of 2X5 channel I had in the junk pile. I just had to drill a 5/8" hole in it.


I just stuck the bolt through the brace ... inserted the cross piece behind the seal and held it in place with a finger while I threaded the bolt into it. I tightened up the bolt by hand ... and positioned the brace against the housing. Once everything was in place ... I tightened the bolt with my 1/2" air gun until the seal and retainer popped out. Worked like a charm.

Next week I'll do the right side.

oddshot
 

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JCKnife

Well-known member
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Kentucky
Ok this may be a dumb question but here goes:

I've got everything back together and all I need to do is bleed the brakes...BUT

When you turn the passenger hub forward, the driver side one turns backward and vice-versa.

Have I done something horribly wrong?

Edit: OK me and Soldier B turned both wheels forwards at the same time and that did work, so I'm freaking out a little less. My heart was in my throat there for a few. Still would like to hear that this is normal.
 
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clinto

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New seals said "outside" on one side
FYI, the seals clintogf got from Erik's Military surplus last week did not have any writing on them (see image 0687).


Much thanks to Banshee for writing this epic thread!



I have a strong recommendation for you guys about to do this: Buy a parts washer.
 

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Wildchild467

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Milford / Michigan
I need to do my boots (seals too while I'm in there) but it might be a next summer project. It's getting cold out there and too many projects going on. Still good to read how all you guys are puttin your boots on! Thanks!
 

aaron379

New member
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Location
junction city ky
somebody please tell me why I've fixed my axel seal twice and its still leaking? I've done everything like I'm supposed to do..... now its pouring again
 

Clay James

Member
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4
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Location
Reno/NV
Check your spindle bushings. My buddy and I both just did our front axle seals( well I did his for a case of M855) and there was a TON of play. Took the spindles and axles to a 4x4 place and had them ream the bushings out and now they're good to go. Also check the end play on your knuckles. My truck had a lot of that as well so I replaced the kingpin bushings and the bottom plate on one side that was worn down. The front axle is TIGHT now. I hope this will finally stop the seals from leaking. Either of these or especially both combined will really stress the seals and cause them to fail quickly because of the axle shaft moving around so much.
 
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Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Ok this may be a dumb question but here goes:

I've got everything back together and all I need to do is bleed the brakes...BUT

When you turn the passenger hub forward, the driver side one turns backward and vice-versa.

Have I done something horribly wrong?

Edit: OK me and Soldier B turned both wheels forwards at the same time and that did work, so I'm freaking out a little less. My heart was in my throat there for a few. Still would like to hear that this is normal.
Certainly normal for open axle differentials. You will have to disassemble a differential to see why...but basically, the input shaft wasn't turning so when you turned a wheel, that side gear rotated. Since the ring gear wasn't turning, this meant the spider gears now were turning on their pivots which causes the other side gear to rotate in the opposite direction.
 

Clay James

Member
524
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Location
Reno/NV
But its only been mabey 10 days since replacement..... shouldn't fail that fast should it??.... ill pull the vent tomorrow and clean it too
That's how quickly mine failed last time. I just took it driving a few times and that was it, they started pouring gear oil. Definitely check the vents. I replaced all my rear seals axle and thought the vents were okay but the seals starting leaking gear oil the first drive because of the pressure. Took the vent off and it hasn't leaked since. These axles can build up pressure just sitting there so it's essential to keep the vents clean. I'm going to install vent lines on both my trucks so they won't build up any pressure.
 

aaron379

New member
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junction city ky
That's how quickly mine failed last time. I just took it driving a few times and that was it, they started pouring gear oil. Definitely check the vents. I replaced all my rear seals axle and thought the vents were okay but the seals starting leaking gear oil the first drive because of the pressure. Took the vent off and it hasn't leaked since. These axles can build up pressure just sitting there so it's essential to keep the vents clean. I'm going to install vent lines on both my trucks so they won't build up any pressure.
Ok thanks ill deffinetly clean my vent and try that first then replace my spindle bushing if it still leaks
 

Motorcar

Member
271
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Location
San Antonio, TX
I just did my inner axle seal on the M35A2 which began leaking just recently and thought I would add my 2cents. This thread was a great help in getting it done and I would encourage anyone else contemplating the task to read it twice. My seal had all of the appearance of not having been apart since overhaul in 1989. The inner retainer holding the sear was glued in with some sort of sealer, really old RTV...? The small slide hammer I had wouldn't even touch it, I ended up borrowing the BF slide hammer from Auto Zone, three hits and out it popped.

I might also add that it is not necessary to disassemble all of the brakes to change the seal, just swing the brake back plate with all the shoes and brake line still attached out the way and hang it on the tie rod end or a jack stand. Then your spindle will come off allowing the axle to pull out free.

I'm not wanting to step on anyone's advise here, all well intentioned, let me just say I believe you need grease in the inside of the knuckle hub where the axle U-joint spins. The U-joint will not get grease inside it by spinning, the important thing that gets grease is the thrust washers that contact the seal retainer and back side of the spindle. There is also a bushing inside the spindle the axle rides in, all of which require lubrication on their friction surfaces. Grease is good.

Lastly, do not park in front of the wife's parking spot in the garage to do the work, if you don't finish on time and the weather goes bad she will not be happy...and you know what that means. :-(
 
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Clay James

Member
524
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Location
Reno/NV
I'm not wanting to step on anyone's advise here, all well intentioned, let me just say I believe you need grease in the inside of the knuckle hub where the axle U-joint spins. The U-joint will not get grease inside it by spinning, the important thing that gets grease is the thrust washers that contact the seal retainer and back side of the spindle. There is also a bushing inside the spindle the axle rides in, all of which require lubrication on their friction surfaces. Grease is good.
I put red grease on the U-joints for the heck of it and put wheel bearing grease on the spindle bushings and behind the thrust washers since it will stick there pretty well.
 
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