front wheel drive doesn't work

[m139h2otruck]

I agree with jwaller, there should be nothing in the vent hole between the two air shifter valves. If an open vertical hole bothers you (it did me) just screw in a 90 w/ a short length of hose/tubing directed down and out the back. Sometimes, the linkage connected to the air cylinder on the transfer is gummed up and the air cylinder does not have enough power to "work" the sprag shifter. Had this issue in the water truck after we first got it running. Original oil (1961) in transfer was like tar, and everything was very sticky. Changed the oil three times, including flushing with fuel oil mixed with motor oil. Now, no problems at all.

 

[Floridianson]

If an open vertical hole bothers you (it did me) just screw in a 90 w/ a short length of hose/tubing directed down and out the back..

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But if you went to all that trouble it would seem like if for some strange reason you did some deep water fording it would seem better to run it up high on fire wall.

 

[m139h2otruck]

That certainly could be done, we just don't intend to drive through 4-5' deep water with the water truck at this time (at least on purpose). When we did the clutch replacement, I just added a left over 90 and piece of plastic air line we had laying around so the air vented back instead or straight up against the floor plate.

 

[sterlun]

OK guys I need a little more help (such a newb). In the pic below; the black rings. What characteristics should they have? Mine are hard and feel like plastic with zero elasticity. Should they be more rubbery? Mine also spin around the brass cylinder with ease. Is that right or should they be tight?

Called Memphis Equipment. The guy was less than helpful and basically told me I couldn't believe anything I read on SteelSoldiers (nice). He also said the copper washers were the main failure in the unit and quoted me $70 for the pair + shipping. W-O-W! That's not a kit, mind you, just two thin copper washers that fit in the palm of your hand. Copper must be really going up. Does anyone have another source? What would I look for on the copper washers to deem them defective?

Basically, I can't visually see anything in this sprag cylinder that looks bad other than it had some dirt and grime. Maybe it just needed a good cleaning. your opinions are valued.

 

[73m819]

He also said the copper washers were the main failure in the unit and quoted me $70 for the[/B] pair + shipping. W-O-W! That's not a kit, mind you, just two thin copper washers that fit in the palm of your hand. Copper must be really going up. Does anyone have another source? What would I look for on the copper washers to deem them defective?

That is why Memphs is a LAST resort call

 

[doghead]

The seals should NOT be hard. They should be soft and flexible. Notice the seal lips(and they are opposite directions), the air pressure has to expand the seal, in each direction to work properly and not leak. I feel confident from your description, your seals are your problem(but what do I know, I post on SS).

You can probably reuse your copper seals.


Google search military truck parts, there are many other choices besides Memphis.

 

[sterlun]

Thanks DH. Yeah, what would you guys know? A lot. That's why I ask here.

Sometimes I think when some of the aged vehicles develop a problem the Army techs can't figure out, they decide to go ahead and run it through DRMO just to get it out of their hair. Which tells me you guys fix stuff they can't. That thought amuses me.

So does anyone know of a source for the seals?

 

[73m819]

We fix them, not because thay can't or don't want to, but because we HAVE TO, we can't park them and go get another nor can we afford to take then to the truck shop and say "FIX IT" (well a few members can ).

 

[EMD567]

If you have NDT'S or Bias belted tires on your truck, you will always have flat spots if your truck sits more than a couple of days. I try to drive my M814 at least every two weeks, and the 1st 10 miles are ALWAYS rough(like riding a bucking bronco when the the flats all line up) Once the tires warm up, shje rides like a dream.

 

[doghead]

CME Arma and Kascar should have the seals. Give them the NSN in the -24P1.

5330-00-832-8235 19207 8758294

 

[sterlun]

I'll do that Monday. Thanks. Maybe I can get the parts and get it back together for the MV show next Saturday.

 

[bevanet]

You might also want to call white owl trucking. I bought several small parts from them and thought that they were reasonable.

 

[sterlun]

Called several parts places yesterday. I did find some folks that were reasonable that I'll keep in mind in the future, but made the purchase from White Owl. Very good deal I thought compared to the others. Thanks, bevanet, for turning me on to them.

 

[sterlun]

WHAAAAAAAHOOOOOOO!!!!!

It's finally fixed. Yes, I know it takes me forever. Got kit #1 from White Owl. If you guys have ever done this, then I'm sure you know that stretching the rubber seals over the brass cylinder is a PITB. So, me being me, I broke one. Also broke a bolt off in the t-case. Am I good or what? (Note to self: A dirt-dobber can disable a 5 ton tractor.)

Ordered another very expensive little rubber seal and put it on today. Went to a spot I know gets me stuck and I didn't stick!! Air sounds good going in and out of reverse. Turned truck off and shifted in and out listening and hear a sweet lil "clunk" going in 1st and in R.

Thanks a HUUUUUGE bunch to all you guys that responded and an extra thanks to the two guys that offered their phone numbers if I needed some 1 on 1 coaching. SteelSoldiers are the best and I honestly wouldn't have fixed it without you guys. I'm very happy.