Fuel Delivery System Overhaul

[donalloy1]

Had a feeling that was the shortcut. Wish me luck tamecrow! Will report back. Thanks...

 

[tamecrow]

Had a feeling that was the shortcut. Wish me luck tamecrow! Will report back. Thanks...

Just be careful removing the bolts from the small hole. If they fall in, you have to remove the timing cover or oil pan to retrieve them. I put a piece of blue shop towel or masking tape over the socket, then push it over the bolt to hold the socket to the bolt.

 

[donalloy1]

Just be careful removing the bolts from the small hole. If they fall in, you have to remove the timing cover or oil pan to retrieve them. I put a piece of blue shop towel or masking tape over the socket, then push it over the bolt to hold the socket to the bolt.

Oh MY! Received Loud and Clear. Proceeding with caution.

Side note: Where aproximately in Novie are you. My family has property in your neck of woods. Will pm you with coordinates. DMLII sends...

 

[Sharecropper]

donalloy1, I just finished this procedure myself, so here are my observations and suggestions -

I will assume you have disconnected both batteries. If not, DO IT NOW. Lay an old blanket over them to prevent accidental arcing.

You must be very carefull when removing those 3 bolts behind the oil fill tube. The tube removes easy, just remove the 2 nuts holding it on and it can simply be pulled out of the rubber grommet. Once you get the tube off, you will need a mirror to look directly into the opening, and then get a buddy to turn the engine slowly with a pull handle and socket attached to the crank pulley nut. Rotate the engine while looking into the mirror, until one of the 3 bolts lines up with the opening. Stuff a rag inside the opening along the bottom and sides to prevent the bolt, one removed, from accidiently falling down into the engine. If this happens, you will have to remove the entire front of the engine to get the bolt. I used a properly-sized socket magnet to hold the bolt in the socket while removing it (see photo). When you get the first bolt out through the opening, get your buddy to turn the crank again while you watch the mirror. Rotate the engine until the next bolt comes around and centers up with the opening. Remove it the same way, rotate again, and remove the third bolt. This will free the pump and allow it to be removed from the engine.

Hope this helps.

 

[donalloy1]

donalloy1, I just finished this procedure myself, so here are my observations and suggestions -

I will assume you have disconnected both batteries. If not, DO IT NOW. Lay an old blanket over them to prevent accidental arcing.

You must be very carefull when removing those 3 bolts behind the oil fill tube. The tube removes easy, just remove the 2 nuts holding it on and it can simply be pulled out of the rubber grommet. Once you get the tube off, you will need a mirror to look directly into the opening, and then get a buddy to turn the engine slowly with a pull handle and socket attached to the crank pulley nut. Rotate the engine while looking into the mirror, until one of the 3 bolts lines up with the opening. Stuff a rag inside the opening along the bottom and sides to prevent the bolt, one removed, from accidiently falling down into the engine. If this happens, you will have to remove the entire front of the engine to get the bolt. I used a properly-sized socket magnet to hold the bolt in the socket while removing it (see photo). When you get the first bolt out through the opening, get your buddy to turn the crank again while you watch the mirror. Rotate the engine until the next bolt comes around and centers up with the opening. Remove it the same way, rotate again, and remove the third bolt. This will free the pump and allow it to be removed from the engine.

Hope this helps.

Thank you all very much for coaching me. Have never been down this trail.

Have removed IP without dropping fastners into Pan. That would have been ugly.

Now to bring IP back to oem specs. Hope these guys do a good job. Looked at TM's and there is no way I can build with my tools. Time to fork over some $.

Still need to check/test Vacuum Pump, Fuel Pump, Service Fuel Filter Manifold and change out fuel lines that will die from WVO. Beer me PLEASE! DMLII sends....

 

[islandguydon]

Well here I go Fellow SS's. Hoping this Tread will help others? Reason for Fuel System Overhaul. Want to start running WMO/WVO. Any input is greatly appreciated as always.

I don't know what truck you have but since this is the CUCV thread I would assume its a GM 6.2

Your tank is a 20 gallon tank, In my past experience and others I would not run more than 5% WMO in the diesel mix. The 5% is there to lubricate the Ip since the diesel fuel has changed since the mid 80s and has less lubricity. I feel you may be asking for trouble with the WVO as well. In the winter you will have problems when its below freezing.

I am not picking on you, In fact I applaud your enthusiasm. I would leave the WMO to the multi fuel and even that I would Filter, Filter, Filter....!

 

[donalloy1]

I don't know what truck you have but since this is the CUCV thread I would assume its a GM 6.2

Your tank is a 20 gallon tank, In my past experience and others I would not run more than 5% WMO in the diesel mix. The 5% is there to lubricate the Ip since the diesel fuel has changed since the mid 80s and has less lubricity. I feel you may be asking for trouble with the WVO as well. In the winter you will have problems when its below freezing.

I am not picking on you, In fact I applaud your enthusiasm. I would leave the WMO to the multi fuel and even that I would Filter, Filter, Filter....!

Have M1009 w/27 Gal Cell. Have been blending fuel without problems so far. Once fuel system has been totally gone through. Why not take it up a notch? The Power Pack seems to like compressing most combustables. WILL filter filter filter!

 

[Keith_J]

Filtering will not prevent damage with waste vegetable oil. Period. It will corrode and plug any fuel system, even those plated in 24 karat gold. The only way to use it in any fuel system is to convert it to biodiesel. Even then, it will still polymerize.

Virgin vegetable oil will stick rings and leave deposits everywhere. But if you are trying to save 52000 in fuel costs, you will buy over $1000 in parts and work on the truck every 6 months.

The injector pump sits in a rather hot area of the engine. The fuel pump, filter and lines aren't exactly cool either. The tank is a terne steel unit, that layer of tin and zinc is very thin, it will fail and expose steel to the fuel.

 

[islandguydon]

Keith_J, I agree 100% with you. It looks like donalloy1 is driving a M1009 blazer, Gm 6.2 not a multi-fuel. I feel there is going to be trouble down the road. If anything I would add to my truck which has the same exact engine it, would be 2 gallons of used polished ATF. This keeps the injectors and the entire fuel system clean and lubed up.

Never straight WMO or WVO. I met up with Camp9 last winter in Fenton. His truck runs on WMO/DIESEL mix. He had to run a heat tape from the tank outlet to the IP then to every injector just to keep the fuel warm enough to make the engine not malfunction. There is alot involved to do this right.

 

[Keith_J]

Vegetable oil is a TOTALLY different chemical than any mineral oil. Vegetable oils and all biologic oils are triglycerides, esters in chemical terms. Meaning they are combinations of fatty acids and glycerine, a triple alcohol.

The reactivity is still there, the fatty acids are aided by their innate ability to combine with oxygen. Mineral oils don't have any carboxylate anion and very little have multiple carbon bonds.

If you want to run on boiled linseed oil, be my guest. Just don't blame the hardware when it fails.

 

[donalloy1]

Fellow SS's, I have read your posts and fully understand that a WVO conversion is NOT a good idea. How about I back up and better explain my ultimate goal on this end.

When I purchased my 1986 M1009 with 6.2 it had very low miles. More rust than I wanted to deal with but that is another subject. I like the Blazer platform. Much room for TALL kids, lots of cargo space, good mpg, little complex electronics to fail, and very capable off road. Love to camp, hunt, fish etc. Bonus for me was to occupy time working on project vehicle. Love wrenching. It takes my mind off day to day crap!

Stumbled upon this site and found many BLENDING Fuel in the 6.2. Never had I thought I would completely get away from pump! Let me repeat that my goal is to BLEND alternate fuels with pump diesel!

If WVO is that bad. Will avoid and go back to more economical fuel blending direction Waste Automotive Lubricants ( motor oil, trans fluid etc. ). Work for large contractor and Equipment Manager will give me all I can consume. All I need to do is clean it before feeding to 6.2 right?

Honestly my IP was probably shot. Had been leaking since I picked it up. Not sure about vacuum and fuel pump yet. Will diagnose and service or replace before I put back together. Replacing fuel lines other than metal lines would be a good choice while I am here either way. Material I will use is still up for debate? Still researching.

Ultimately want a Military Vehicle that is dependable and capable once complete with this project. Hope this explains where my head is at. Back to work. DMLII sends respectfully...

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I guess the problem with WVO is twofold:

1. It's inherently acidic. That's the nature of the beast.
2. Vegetable oils like to become polymers. That's why we use things like tung oil and linseed oil to finish wood. When it hits oxygen, it polymerizes, which means it becomes like plastic. Tough, clear, and protective.

It's hard for me to see how putting acids in a fuel system is going to work well over the long haul.

And a nice, hard plastic coating? Uh oh, those aren't exactly the properties we want inside a mechanical device that has small passages and tight clearances!

I'm not by any means an expert on WVO for fuel use, but I did research veggie oils as lubricants. Unfortunately, I did my research after taking the advice of a few people and using clean veggie oil in my chainsaw as a bar lubricant.

That was an expensive lesson. I learned that it's probably okay for professionals who use their saws every day, and so flush out the veggie oil constantly. As for the acids, well, for bar oil it probably doesn't matter because the usual dust, etc., is abrading things faster than the acids can, anyway. For occasional use, where the oil has a chance to sit and become plastic, it's a saw killer.


In an engine? <shudder>

 

[Sharecropper]

After reading this thread a few times, it finally occurred to me: The solution would be to use plain old pump diesel with a good diesel additive.

Just my .

 

[Keith_J]

Nearly all metals catalyze vegetable oil polymerization. That "boiled" term in linseed oil is usually replaced with a metal catalyst. Japan Drier is one such product, most types are cobalt (purple) or iron (red-orange). Lead has been used in the past, hence the lead-based paint issue.

I guess if you kept an argon blanket on the fuel system, you might have less issues with virgin vegetable oil.

 

[donalloy1]

Totally focussed on just getting her back to operational. Hopefully have IP back in a week for installation. Any hints on getting air out of system. Going to have air throughout. Maybe introduce pressure to tank and push fuel all the way? DMLII sends...

 

[Sharecropper]

donalloy1 - when you get your IP back, use your mirror as required and make sure the indexing stud on the pump rotor goes back into the mating slot in the engine gear. Then loosely attach the 3 nuts on the back side of the gear housing to hold the pump in place while you install the 3 bolts through the fill tube opening. Again, you must be carefull when you install these 3 internal bolts. The first hole should already be lined up from when the pump was removed. Use your mirrir to make sure, and cram a rag inside to keep from loosing a bolt down into the engine. Use the socket magnet if you have one. If you don't have one, go get one. It is THAT important. I used red LokTite on my bolts, which is not called for in the TM however I saw traces of red LokTite when I removed my bolts, so I used it when reinstalling. Get your buddy to rotate the crank pulley nut with the pull handle until the next bolt hole lines up in the mirror. Trust me, the mirror is invaluable in lining up the holes. Snug all 3 bolts up and then go around again with your torque wrench set at the correct setting (in the TM). After these 3 internal bolts are torqued properly, go back to those 3 nuts on the back side of the housing. Loosen these enough to permit the pump to rotate, and then align the timing marks. Factory timing is the exact alignment, however most folks advance the timing by the thickness of the line towards the driver's side. Once you get the marks the way you want them, tighten all three nuts wrench-tight (as tight as you can hand-tighten them with a boxed-end wrench).

Once you get the pump on and everything hooked up, open the air release knob on top of the fuel filter, hook up the battery and turn the engne over until fuel squirts out the drain port. I stuck a piece of small rubber hose on mine and pointed it down to the ground to keep from squirting fuel in the engine bay. Once the filter is primed, tighten the air release knob and crack open all injector nuts. Make sure your batteries are fully charged, and crank the engine for 15 seconds, wait a few minutes to allow the starter to cool, then crank another 15 seconds, etc. It will require about 4 of these cranking sessions to fill the system. When you see fuel leaking at each injector nut, everything is primed. Tighten all injector nuts and fire them horses up.

If I can offer any additional assistance, send me a PM.

Hope this helps.

 

[Skinny]

I just ordered Tygon F-4040-A translucent yellow fuel line along with single crimp stainless steel clamps from McMaster Carr. I also ordered a Stanadyne FM100 6" long 2 micron filter with a top load 24v heater. Hope this will be the last fuel plumbing I buy for awhile in the engine bay.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Hmmm. I just looked that stuff up and it's only good to 165 F.


Is that good enough in the engine compartment?

 

[Skinny]

Yikes, just saw that. Looks like I will be using something else.

 

[Keith_J]

I use a Mity Vac hand vacuum pump with reservoir to prime diesel fuel systems. Do NOT pressurize the tank, that is a good way to increase its capacity.

You can pull the fuel faster as you have a 14 PSI driving force, atmospheric pressure. I wouldn't put more than 10 PSI in a tank as these are designed for a Reid Vapor Pressure of 10 PSI, give or take a PSI or two. Besides, the vacuum is far safer.