fuel filter and lines

[rsrxc700]

Looks like I still have original fuel lines, now weathered and cracked that need to be changed as well as fuel filter. Should I do a spin on conversion now or just replace the stock lines and filter.

Thanks !

 

[GunnyM1009]

That all depends on who you ask and what you need. If you need the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater then I would stick with stock. The main reasons people convert are for ease of finding filters or if the factory system is leaking. I live in the south so I did not need a fuel heater, plus I wanted the ability to find a filter that would fit literally at any place that sells filters. I honestly notice no difference in the vehicle performance from one to the other. Some people say there's starts easier or runs better after converting but I honestly believe they probably just had a leak or a bad filter before converting.

 

[ssdvc]

I didn't convert to a spin-on until my original filter block started leaking. I did keep the original block and will, at some point, refurb it. I used a simple spin-on head (no heater or water separator) sold by Gimmpyrob, as he had a great deal on a kit with enough filters to last me for years!!! I may, sometime in the future, upgrade to a filter head with a priming bulb and heater, as I do live in New England and it does get a little chilly up here. That said, I have not had any issues with fuel or starting down to ZERO, so I am not in a hurry to upgrade.

 

[rsrxc700]

Good info. I am in MN so heater probably a must. (I Better check if it even works) Stock filters a little hard to find, Both Napa and RockAuto show out of stock. Oreillys can order one for $45. Going to look into cost of a conversion kit. My lines and housing are not leaking yet but I assume they are original. Those OEM housings are probably hard to find and expensive as well.

 

[GunnyM1009]

Good info. I am in MN so heater probably a must. (I Better check if it even works) Stock filters a little hard to find, Both Napa and RockAuto show out of stock. Oreillys can order one for $45. Going to look into cost of a conversion kit. My lines and housing are not leaking yet but I assume they are original. Those OEM housings are probably hard to find and expensive as well.

You can get spin on systems with heaters as well. I recall it being a decent amount more expensive. I believe you have to get a filter head from a modern diesel that has a heater built in.

 

[rsrxc700]

Looks like OEM from a Duramax is around $120-150 w heater . Going to inspect my original housing for condition and see what makes most sense.

 

[adf5565]

I installed a Parker Racor 230R1210 in mine. It has an integrated WIF sensor and heater. WIF you can direct connect to the existing circuit, heater I used a relay. It’s a good setup but pricey, and if my factory filter setup wasn’t hacked by a previous owner I would’ve rather just used that.

[230R1210]Parker Racor FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR ASSEMBLY

[230R1210]Parker Racor FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR ASSEMBLY

www.dieselfiltersonline.com

 

[87cr250r]

What leaks on the housing? Can it not be repaired? I have not experienced this. The filters are from Stanadyne and cover a large range of vehicles. John Deere uses these on their engines. They aren't cheap but they're good filters. If you ever cut one open you'll see that they have a primary and secondary element with chamber for water separation. I have noticed the parts stores are selling Chinese knock-offs. The aftermarket used to say Stanadyne under the brand stickers. Having to use the starter to prime the filter is annoying but I see no other benefit to replacing the stock unit.

 

[GunnyM1009]

What leaks on the housing? Can it not be repaired? I have not experienced this. The filters are from Stanadyne and cover a large range of vehicles. John Deere uses these on their engines. They aren't cheap but they're good filters. If you ever cut one open you'll see that they have a primary and secondary element with chamber for water separation. I have noticed the parts stores are selling Chinese knock-offs. The aftermarket used to say Stanadyne under the brand stickers. Having to use the starter to prime the filter is annoying but I see no other benefit to replacing the stock unit.

It's usually just seals that go bad. Yes they can be repaired pretty easily but a lot of people prefer the availability of spin ons. Its the worst case scenario mindset. If your in the middle of no where and your filter gets clogged for some reason chances are uncle Freddy's parts store will have some spin on that will work. The box filters are just getting harder to find without having to order them. I guess the counter to that argument would just be to keep a couple of spare filters on hand.

 

[C130guy]

I got tired of my original filter, wasn't leaking per say but it was allowing air to get in the lines and I had to turn it over longer to start it. I cobbled this together and it works well. The pressure gauge doesn't work right now, but thats troubleshooting for another day. I would definitely go with a spin on conversion.

 

[C130guy]

I

Good info. I am in MN so heater probably a must. (I Better check if it even works) Stock filters a little hard to find, Both Napa and RockAuto show out of stock. Oreillys can order one for $45. Going to look into cost of a conversion kit. My lines and housing are not leaking yet but I assume they are original. Those OEM housings are probably hard to find and expensive as well.

Also howdy neighbor. I live just north of the Twin Cities. Don't see many CUCVs driving around here so it's cool knowing seeing that you're in the area.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I still have a few filter sets available. They are the FM100 style, so, a water in fuel sensor is available and so is the heater. I just don't have either of those here to sell with the kit. Ebay should have them but I bet any stanadyne dealer should be able to locate them for you.