fuel in crankcase

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Floridianson

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You know I am a big fan of your work and the 6BT swap plus the restore is fantastic.
In the video you said we had to remove the four bolt timing advance window. You said for the head to come out it had to be 1/2 tooth off so we would be sure not to get the IP 180* off.
Do believe we only have to line up the scribe mark on the head to the head pointer. It does not matter about the disc on the advance window at this time. We only use that for checking the timing. So as said to remove the head at any time just line up the head pointer and the head scribe mark and remove the head. Correct timing will be crank on it's pointer, advance window on it mark and head scribe will be just about a tooth off to the rear of the pointer. What we are trying to do when we line up just the head scribe / pointer is to get the cut out slot in the washer to the open point. If you try to remove the head and the pointer/ scribe are off you can bend that washer. Hard to see in the pic but the cut out is the one with two arrows coming in from the top.
 

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Jeepsinker

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I've mentioned that I've seen some that must be perfectly on the pointer to come out, some like a half tooth forward, some like a half tooth to the rear. What is consistent though is that if it isn't perfectly aligned where it wants to be, it isn't going to lift out without prying it out, and yes that certainly will damage the denial washer on the quill shaft head. It should lift out with no effort.

I've done a few of these videos and sometimes I'm much more specific and descriptive than other times.

The four bolt advance window cover removal is not necessary, but is helpful to give the technician an idea when the hydraulic head tooth is getting close to where it should be.
 

Floridianson

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Myself I always rotate the crank the same way the motor runs. If for some reason I pass the head marks buy just a little when I reverse rotation I go well past head alinement and then rotate the crank in correct rotation again and try and hit the head marks. Never had a problem on head removal pointer dead on. Had a problem on install one time. The head would not drop all the way in and bottom out. Just had to turn crank just a hair and watch to get the denial washer so the cut out was equal on both sides and quill shaft gear was pointing dead center to the IP tappet assembly hole. I had wondered if this was because of slight gear wear.
Myself I like to use the harmonic balancer mark / pointer and the #2 exhaust valve thing when looking for the head scribe. ( Thanks Chris easer than removing the front valve cover and watching #1 cylinder). The heads I have replaced I had a helper watching the #2 valve and when it starts to open they let me know and I know I am coming up on the right stroke/ TDC compression and the Head is getting close to alinement. Also this way I am also set up for complete IP removal and or timing check.
As said as long as the head scribe and it's pointer are on mark the head can be removed and replaced and no worries about 180* off. To get 180* off one has to remove the whole IP not on TDC compression stroke but set the IP back up for install the way they way it is called for.
If the whole IP was removed you also on install after adjustment of the IP using the center bolt to bring it to time your IP drive gear and bolt slots must look like in the picture.
 

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tommy spinco

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can you help me with your video on how to fix injecter pump while on the engine?i watched part 1of your video and i dont know how to subscribe to your video list thank you for your time tom
 
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