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Fuel leak and Brake questions....

ATC

Member
152
0
16
Location
Roanoke, VA
First off, the fuel leak. Sorry I don't have a picture...it's cold and dark outside. There is a small...whatever it's called thing sticking out of the tube to the intake directly above the turbo. There is a plastic line that runs from it, across to the injectors. Fuel is leaking out of the end of that and right onto the turbo where is "burned" off (no flames, just smoke). It only leaks when running, not when the accessory switch is on.

Second. When I got this truck, the brake pedal felt awesome. The brakes would grab instantly (within the first 1/4" of travel), and dang near lock up around 7/8". Now, the pedal goes to within 2" from the floor before they start to grab. I can pump the pedal and get get more feel.

Now, I know part of it is my fault for not checking the brake fluid in a while...but I'm not sure how. The MC has a fitting on top with a hard line run from that to a "T" on the crossmember below it. I don't know if that's a breather or what. I was afraid to take it off for fear of getting air in the lines.

Any help would be great :grin:
 

crazyplowboy

New member
597
4
0
Location
Champion, Ohio
The leaking part on the intake manifold is the Manifold Flame Heater nozzle. I've heard of some guys disconnecting the fuel lines going to it and plugging them. I took mine off a few months ago for the same reason, replaced the o-rings inside, cleaned it up a little and have not had any problems since. You might also want to check the connection of the plastic lines to the nozzle, a friend of mine was having a leaking problem and found out that all it was was just a loose fitting.
The tube on top of the master cylinder is just a vent. Disconnect it at the top of the MC, and then remove the large cap that it goes into.
 

oilcan

Member
924
3
18
Location
Ohio
Good info up there.

Do yourself a big favor and download the manuals. They will help with details like the m/c vent line. That stuff is kinda important. :wink:
 

ATC

Member
152
0
16
Location
Roanoke, VA
Thanks for the help guys. I'll go check it out right now. I have to use it to bring home some very large pallets that our new Palletizer at work came on. 4x4, 4x6, and 2x6 Oak boards about 10-12' long... :razz:
 

ATC

Member
152
0
16
Location
Roanoke, VA
Well...I went down to the local Fastener place and all they had were 2 plugs for the manifold heater. They didn't have any to block off the port on the line that runs from the injector lines or to the other smaller line under the metal cover on the intake manifold. Anyone have any thread dimensions for them? I would really like to get it up and going by Wed. so I can grab some of those pallets before someone else beats me to them.

Thanks again for the help ;-)
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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NY
You can remove the Tee in the return line and plug the supply line down at the IP pump.
 

ATC

Member
152
0
16
Location
Roanoke, VA
I plugged the supply line at the IP (that was a job trying to reach with 2 huge hands and 2 wrenches...) But I still need to plug the return line somehow. I'm thinking about just plugging the fitting (the male end that threads into the Tee) with JB weld :?: It might be a halfassed way of doing it, but no one has a plug to match those threads...
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
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Just go to NAPA and get a foot long pies of DOT 1/4"od air line. Get 2, 1/4" brass ferrules and 2 of the in the line inserts, from HD or Lowes. Remove and replace the return line with the Tee in it with the new air line. Do not over tighten the ferrule nuts.
 
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