Fuel Leak In the Valley

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HoveringHMMWV

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I returned from a casual 45 minute drive today and noticed a puddle of fuel after parking. After raising the hood and removing the doghouse, I noticed the valley of the 6.5L NA GEP was wet with fuel and the puddle was under the oil filter. I had recently changed the injector bypass hoses and found those connections still dry. I have begun my reading regarding a faulty IP and/or output connections. Time to dig deep into the TM's. I have attached a few pics with questions for input from others more knowledgable.
Thank you in advance.
- HoveringHMMWV

Are these the valley drains holes?
IMG_5209.JPG IMG_5198.JPG

Would the leak be at the base of the pump or from one of the lower output lines?
IMG_5211.jpg
 

Milcommoguy

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Those are some good pictures. Looks a little nasty / crusty around the servo-advance piston. (lower components of pump) It's a place that can leak.

Outputs looks dry ? with some corrosion on some of the fittings. (cylinder feeds 2,5,6,7,8 ) But not wet. Could get up in there with crows foot & extension and re-torque. 15-25 FT LB's

This level of the crud is a bit worrisome IMO. Do the easy and check the rubber hose and clamp. Not sure, change it all out to new and check the box.

If IP is going to take a dump... It couldn't be any harder to get at, CAMO

GOOD LUCK, Work Smart.
 
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BLK HMMWV

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Your more then likley going to find it is the part circled above.
I'm not exactly sure what it is called.
I think it is like a accelerator pump ? or something.
At least on my engine that part leaked and gave me a similar problem.
I had the pump rebuilt and was told it was a common problem on the injector pump that was in my 6.5
Apparently the manufacturer used an aluminum piston in a steel cylinder. they had to bore it out and sleeve it with something from what I remembered.
Also make sure the drain hole isn't plugged in the valley .
 

HoveringHMMWV

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Had a chance to get the M1097A2 outside and look for the source of the fuel leak. The leak appears at the base of the pump below the throttle cam (?) The drips were approximately 4-5 per min which equates to about 4-5 oz of fuel per hour (pardon the public math). Engine RPM and throttle movement did not appear to affect drips/min. However, the drip did not seem to begin until the engine ran for several minutes. Was hoping for a loose fuel line but not the case.
Pic attached.
Have been reading up on the IP swap. Should this be a plug and play "operation" or will some sort of pump timing be required?
Thanks again,
- HoveringHMMWV

IMG_5227.PNG
 
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Retiredwarhorses

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Pull the intake manifold and replace it, the oil filler needs to come off to gain access to the 3 metric bolts holding the pump on the timing gear. Put in new intake gaskets as well.
Set the pump dead center on the timing mark or a hair to the drivers side, the mark is on the pump and the accessory housing.
 

Milcommoguy

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Welcome to the HMMWV headache number 214. It's easy stuff, just a pain in the butt. Newbie to this engine?? Some tips before one starts IMO >>>

Grab the TM s and study it (OK look at the pictures) to program the brain. Clear out a big clean spot on the workbench. Snap some pictures before and along the journey.

It's not hard, just a lot of tear down / clearing stuff out to get to the bugger. Helps to be a contortionist, working around and getting up close to the action.

Couple of tips. This may not make sense... Set the brakes. jack it up safely, pull off the front wheels, lower it down on jack stands setting the front low to the ground. Shove a tire under the front. Your not going anywhere anyhow. Pull the BIG FAT air box.

WFT....... I KNOW... sounds like more work, but it's a lot easier to get at it from both sides. OR build a bridge out of plywood between the air lift loops and over radiator to lay out on. (I would fall off or fall to sleep)

Label and tag everything. Sounds DUM, But your going to have a fist full of bolts / studs out of the intake holding this and that. Snap lots of reference pictures. (TM's can help here too with drawings) Tag wires coming and going with locations. I have seen good mechanics with an impact wrench the whole thing like a NASCAR pit stop , only to be lost trying to figure what went where later.

Tag the injector lines and pay attention to IP locations or it can turn into a puzzle. Watch the three bolts coming out thru the oil filler access per RWH. Get the rubber grommet out of the way. Take GREAT care not to drop / loose them to gravity in the timing cover housing.

Things to get >>>

Get ready
Get organized / time. Don't Get in a hurry
Get a head start with the TM's
Get the intake, IP gasket
Get a new pump or stand-by for the rebuild return
Get some masking tape or wire tags for labels
Get a good mirror & light to see IP to T gear bolts at first of feel around. ( I didn't say that )
Get some aspirin
Get some gloves
Get a band-aid or two
Get some tunes
GRAB a BEER and GET going, CAMO

GOOD LUCK and make it FUN
 
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HoveringHMMWV

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I appreciate the informative and motivational replies! I've been doing a lot of reading in preparation (smarter instead of harder), gathering/printing out TM procedures, and pondering over techniques (actually thought about the wooden platform and air intake too).

Are there any recommendations for a reliable rebuild/reman shop for my IP pump (Stanadyne 2831-5149)? What type of turn time should I expect if shipping my core in for rebuild? Or should I expect to buy first and mail in the core after removal?

Thank you again for all of the input!
-HoveringHMMWV
 
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HoveringHMMWV

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The "Fuel Injection Lines Bleeding" procedure in TM9-2320-280-34, section 4-4, page 4-5 does not mention installing any other components, intake manifold or otherwise, before performing. I would think that FOD ingestion would be a concern or am I mistaken? I do notice that a line leak would be much easier to correct before a complete reassembly.
 

gem1410

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I did take pictures along the way and marked the injector lines--easy to get lost--I used steam pipe thread sealer on the intake bolts--bought the stuff from home depot--The sealer worked great and the bolts went back in smooth--With the pump removed you can clean and paint the valley---
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Time for the job depends on how clean everything is, if it’s a mess, you want to take the time to pressure wash the engine and that area ahead of time. Than there is the old intake gaskets, they can be quite crusty and stubborn to get off all the old gasket, the intakes have to be blocked off with towels. Also corrosion on the intake bolts wire wheeled and cleaned up. Only 4 bolts get sealant as they are not captive, they go all the way through.
i also paint the intake manifold while it’s out with cast aluminum color.
 

HoveringHMMWV

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IWith the pump removed you can clean and paint the valley---
Yep, am already planning on cleaning up and repainting that valley. Not planning on hours, but rather resigned myself to the fact that this will be a multi-week project. Will post pics and notes when completed.
Took the M1097A2 out for one last short drive before the teardown begins.
Appreciating all of the input.
- HoveringHMMWV
 

TOBASH

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Yeah MicroJeep, I agree. I thought the title of this thread sounded more like an EPA news headline fueled by tree huggers.

I was picturing Starbucks drinking unwashed sandal wearing hippies rioting while carrying signs and chanting about endangered snail darters, polar bears and California condors.

Get a few uneducated rabidly liberal musicians like Miley Cirus and Ariana Grande to launch a televised benefit with albino guitar playing undocumented "dreamer" kids as the back-up band, and we got a great bleeding heart news clip!

LOL
 
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