fuel line cracked

[kungfu dave]

Hello all,

I managed to crack my manifold fuel line just above the banjo fitting. (above and to the right of the lift pump) Part # is 3922117 I think. The replacement part is in the $400-500 range so I will NOT be doing that again. Anyway, that kind of cash is not currently in the budget. Can a line like this be repaired? Is a used one a possibility? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Almost forgot, 8.3 Cummins 6CTA motor

Thanks in advance.

 

[WillWagner]

That is the return from the injectors. Very little fuel is returned through that line, but, it does dump into the line from the lift pump to the filter, so there can be upwards of 35 psi in the line, I have repaired them in the field and the repair held for as long as I knew the rig was on site....4-5 years. Braze it carefully, make sure all fuel is out of it DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean the line, that stuff puts off nasty vapor when heated, use starting fluid and let it sit a day or so before you heat it. The metal melts easily.

I am sure someone out there in SS land has some parts engines. Maybe try a parts wanted ad in the classifieds?

 

[simp5782]

I told you to braze it puddin. Don't be scared to lose your eyebrows

 

[kungfu dave]

That is the return from the injectors. Very little fuel is returned through that line, but, it does dump into the line from the lift pump to the filter, so there can be upwards of 35 psi in the line, I have repaired them in the field and the repair held for as long as I knew the rig was on site....4-5 years. Braze it carefully, make sure all fuel is out of it DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean the line, that stuff puts off nasty vapor when heated, use starting fluid and let it sit a day or so before you heat it. The metal melts easily.

I am sure someone out there in SS land has some parts engines. Maybe try a parts wanted ad in the classifieds?

/Thanks for the advice. Would you just use regular silver solder with MAP gas?

 

[Jbulach]

Can you post a pic of what you have going on? I may have a line that I could trade you. I would use bronze, but I think you will need o2 to get enough heat. Other than that if you can solder a refrigerant line you should have no problem brazing.

 

[frank8003]

4710-01-339-0584 3922117, 3915695
Do you have photo of it and or a picture of it from a TM, would help.

 

[simp5782]

.

 

[WillWagner]

Depending on how big the crack is, silver solder might work well. If it is cracked at the line/fitting joint, another option would be to finish the break, put fuel resistant line on it and clamp the hose.

IIRC, the return manifold was the same from 1985 when it was introduced to 1998 when it was phased out for the ISC, weather aftercooled, non aftercooled or charge air cooled. The material was changed to a flexible hose between the nozzles and the last leg to the filter inlet. I just called my old place of employment, the number is still good, no supercession.

Again, there has to be someone out there that has a wrecked/blown up truck. Have you tried a local to you truck bone yard?

 

[kungfu dave]

Depending on how big the crack is, silver solder might work well. If it is cracked at the line/fitting joint, another option would be to finish the break, put fuel resistant line on it and clamp the hose.

IIRC, the return manifold was the same from 1985 when it was introduced to 1998 when it was phased out for the ISC, weather aftercooled, non aftercooled or charge air cooled. The material was changed to a flexible hose between the nozzles and the last leg to the filter inlet. I just called my old place of employment, the number is still good, no supercession.

Again, there has to be someone out there that has a wrecked/blown up truck. Have you tried a local to you truck bone yard?

Will, I have not tried a bone yard yet. Are you telling me that the newer version of the part is a different material? I didn't quite understand what you trying to say about the newer version. Thanks for the help.

 

[frank8003]

Just replace it with Swagelok tube and fittings and be done forever.
What is the ID/OD and both ends connections, Is it NPT or strange stuff?

 

[WillWagner]

Will, I have not tried a bone yard yet. Are you telling me that the newer version of the part is a different material? I didn't quite understand what you trying to say about the newer version. Thanks for the help.

Yes, it is different material. The one you have is all metal....don't ask what kind, I just know it is thin and will melt fast. The new style one has the same steel banjos but between them it is a flexible tube. They were prone to cracking hence the part revision

 

[simp5782]

Will, I have not tried a bone yard yet. Are you telling me that the newer version of the part is a different material? I didn't quite understand what you trying to say about the newer version. Thanks for the help.

Newer model engine type

 

[WillWagner]

Newer model engine type

Same engine, C6 8.3, just a newer part that was prone to failure. As said before, about 98% that ALL were the same, turboed, aftercooled, CAC. All the nozzles, mounts and return points were the same. So, if there is a bone yard by you that has a truck or piece of equipment in it that has a C series in it....1984 to 1997-early 98, the manifold will be the same and work on your engine.

 

[kungfu dave]

Well the line has multiple connections, 6 or 7 so I don't know enough about Swagelok to know if it would work. In my opinion the metal is most likely aluminum. I will look for a bone yard...

 

[WillWagner]

It is some alloy, it is magnetic and will braze.

 

[LCA078]

You can probably soft solder (like solder for electrical contacts) to seal the leak but it may crack again soon as soft solder has little structural strength. Silver solder and brazing are strong but require some experience to do it without burning or melting your item.

At 35 PSI, I like the option of installing a section of rubber fuel line (get the good stuff with a blue liner) and double clamping each end. The flex in the rubber line may even help alleviate further damage on the good sections. I just don't know how easy it is to add the rubber line....but probably easier than anything else