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fuel pump replacement

2deuce

Well-known member
1,479
147
63
Location
portland, oregon
I pulled the fuel pump off because it was leaking, unfortunately it wasn't the hose. It is a very tight place to work. I can't see the pushrod. I left that alone. It looks like the replacement pump can be bolted back in place without concern about the pushrod according to the TM. but wanted to make sure.
Thanks
 

ohfisherman

New member
95
0
0
Location
cleveland, ohio
if the rod falls down take the plate off and just take it out and dip the end of it into some grease and stick it back in. its not as bad as it looks. hopefully you got the cam on the low side and it will only take a little pressure to get the pump back on. insert the pump on a little bit of a downward angle and kind of roll it upwards to make sure you get under the pushrod. it sounds confusing the way i am describing it but once you do one the rest are pretty easy. at least you have a cold motor to work with!
 

2deuce

Well-known member
1,479
147
63
Location
portland, oregon
I'll feel around in there. What you say makes sense. The cam may be on the low side because the rod wasn't pushing out the pump when I took it off.
Thanks,
Greg
 

2deuce

Well-known member
1,479
147
63
Location
portland, oregon
If the pump goes in, the pump should be in correctly and if the pushrod is too low or falls down then the pump won't go in? I've been working on this outside after dark after work which makes it all the more interesting.
Thanks,
Greg
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
I usually unplug the injection pump and have somebody bump the starter while I hold the rod up in the hole to catch it when it is all the way off the lobe. You are correct, that is a miserable place to work. Make sure you attach the lower fuel line before installing the pump as they are almost impossible to put on later. Check that lower hose thoroughly for any signs of cracking, hardness, etc... That lift pump is my least favorite job so far on these vehicles. Glen
 

tomc

Member
35
0
6
Location
Jonesborough/TN
We just replaced the fuel pump pushrod (old one was broke in two). Seems that the engine is struggling to turn over now. What would cause this? When the old broken rod was in (we figured out the electrical problems) it turned over rather good. Now is seems to struggle.
Tom in TN
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
low batteries? i had no problem getting the lower line on. just make sure you have a new clamp and a long extension with a 1/4 socket.
I think you are talking about the hose from the filter to injection pump. The hose on the lift pump is under the pump, which sits in a cup at the corner of the frame and cross member, behind the lower radiator hose and ahead of the right engine mount. Glen
 

2deuce

Well-known member
1,479
147
63
Location
portland, oregon
That whole job is a PITA. Especially reattaching the flared fitting on the pump. I've been working on it after work with a flashlight, for 3 evenings. I haven't started the truck, and check for leaks. I have to bleed the air out first, but right now I want to feel like the I'm done.
Thanks for the help.
 

allrevup

Member
271
2
18
Location
Delaware
Electric pump & blocker plate
DITTO, that mechanical pump is not worth the time and effort ( I replace mine when I purchase the m1008, oil was leakink out and no amount of tightening would stop it, probably a bad diaphram)
Just replace it with an electrical pump and a easy to get to line prefilter somewhere in the right frame. I could not find the tread and photos with parts but is in here somewere, if I recal correctly it was in keeping with future plans for higher fuel delivery needs.
 

2deuce

Well-known member
1,479
147
63
Location
portland, oregon
I think I will go with electric if there is a next time. It would make it easier to bleed air out of the filter after a change also. When I started the R&R I didn't think it would be quite the pain it was.
 

tomc

Member
35
0
6
Location
Jonesborough/TN
Fuel Pump on M1010

Hello to all once again,

Have been down for the past 5 or 6 months recovering from surgery and then the weather went bad here in NE TN.

Replaced the fuel pump on the M1010 and still no fuel to the filter. Had a retired motor sgt here a week ago and he said that if I had put a new pump and push rod on the engine and still have problems to get an electric fuel pump and replace the mechanical fuel pump with a plate. Well I took the mechanical pump off and lo and behold the new push rod was broken just like the one when I began this post last year.
Have two questions:
1. Only found half of the push rod, will the cam push the other half out of the way or should I try and use a magnet to find it and get it out???

2. Where is the best place to locate the electric fuel pump, anyone done this on a M1010?

Thanks,

Tom in TN
 

M1008driver

New member
522
3
0
Location
Great Falls, Montana
Some body here went with Stanadyne. I found a dealer two blocks from my house and plan on using them too. They don't like the 6.2 diesel engine because of the Frito-Lay fleet, but I think I just found a new source for parts too. SRM
 

kassim503

New member
383
3
0
Location
Stony Brook, NY
With the electric pump upgrade, would the system still be self priming if you put it inline post primary rectangle filter and pre secondary spin on? That could help keep two primary filters out of the system.
 

tomc

Member
35
0
6
Location
Jonesborough/TN
Replaced the push rod and it broke again. Picked up a pump from Advance Auto (replaced it twice) ended up getting a heavy duty one installed. Had a good mechanic replace the push rod again and it broke a third time. Not sure what is going on but will take the pump out and just run the electric. May pick up a spare to have in the vehicle in case the installed on craps. Also need to replace the fuel pick up line in the tank, checked it visually and it looks fine but the truck seems to be out of fuel after using about 5 gallons. Put 5 more in and it starts and runs fine. Debating if I should sell it or not, have been out of work since July.
 

tbearatkin

Member
495
24
18
Location
SouthWestTennessee
I can see why people replace it with a electric fuel pump. I finally got my old one off NO THANKS TO THE TM's how is it they can confuse a 10mm bolt with a 11mm(7/16) bolt?

No way in heck would my 10mm socket fit the head of the bolt. 11 mm fit the front one and if I had a 1/4 drive 11 mm socket it prob would have worked for the back one. BUT I all had was 1/4 flex shaft and a 7/16 socket and that worked to get the bolt out.

From the TM.
INITIAL SETUP:
Equipment Condition MaterialslParts
Both battery negative cables disconnected. One fuel pump gasket
(See paragraph 4-38) One mounting plate gasket
Alternators, alternator brackets, and Grease (Item 26, Appendix C)
mounting hardware removed (M1010). Tie-down strap (Item 44, Appendix C)
(See paragraph 4-3)
Too/s/Test Equipment General Safety Instructions
10 mm socket DO NOT perform this procedure near
fire, flames, or sparks.


Not sure if its worth standing on my head and aggravating a already bad back to put a new one on.

Not even sure if this is my problem with low power and white smoke(it is unburnt fuel) out of both exhaust pipes. But the cheapest fix. Next will be replace the injectors and then if that does not solve it then I guess it will be replace the Inj pump.

Question I have is if I replace it with an electric pump does it come with a blank for where the mechanical fuel pump is or do I need to manufacture one myself?
 
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