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Gas in Oil ?

dads6x6

Member
45
0
6
Location
HONEYVILLE, UTAH
my M37s oil smells like gas. I was told that the fuel pump may go bad and do that. The part that worries me is it wont start and the engine wont turn very fast. I was also told that gas in the oil can ruin barrings. I hope not. please let me know ideas.
 

dads6x6

Member
45
0
6
Location
HONEYVILLE, UTAH
it may have gotten driven 2 miles. It really worries me that I have burned the barrings. I have not had to really work with it. I will drag it in my shop, drain the oil, and rip out the fuel pump. i have a kit to rebuild it.
 

just me

Member
322
10
18
Location
phoenix,az
When you get it home, see if you can turn it by hand.
If you absolutely had to, you could replace the bearings in frame. At least if the crank is still Ok.
 

Evil Dr. Porkchop

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,952
269
83
Location
Colchester, VT
When was the last time you changed the oil? If you check the oil regularly and nothing is abnormal about the level in the pan then you probably don't have any major engine issues at this point.
If it was way overfull with gas I'd be worried. If you keep the oil level correct and it hasn't changed I wouldn't freak out just yet.
 

rosco

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,102
28
38
Location
Delta Junction, Alaska
Those fuel pumps were always problematic (& its a cramped place to work on). Usually the vacuum assist for the wipers was the 1st part to fail, that or one of the many valves to be contaminated by spects of dirt. Also the little heat shield was very important in helping to prevent vapor lock. I put an electric fuel pump with adapter fittings, so that I could keep the original fuel lines original, in the event that I wanted it to be "stock". Then I rebuilt the original pump & put it away for future use. You can also replace it with a "civi" one for the 230 ci engine, but the "vapor lock issue" is real.
 

NAM VET

Member
40
2
8
Location
Rock Hill, SC
When you drain your oil, try to drain it into a clean container, then push a magnet around in the bottom. As above, carefully check your pre-drain oil level. And save a sample for an oil analysis, will tell you how much gas is in oil, and other contaminates. Look up Blackstone for their oil analysis kit. When I recently did an engine-out rebuild of my truck and the sheet metal as part of my restoration, I decided I would use a block off plate for the mechanical oil pump, having heard about the high risk failure of the sea mostly due to age and modern gas, with a 24 V Facet electrical pump. Even had my stock mechanical pump rebuilt to modern standards. It sits in a box now.

I know how sick and worried you must feel now. At the least, you will need to clean out your oil filter too. It is not too hard to pull the sump pan from below, and replace the bearings and seals, and at least do a visual inspection of the crank when you can see it. If you have hurt your motor, it can be repaired or even perhaps rebuilt to a better than new standard. I did my restoration in my garage and driveway. Took time and money, though. I suggest you do a search on the other M37 forum, lots of pictures and experiences with what may be necessary. I would't try to start the motor until this is sorted out. These trucks have forged cranks, so the steel is pretty tuff, and the bearings are designed to take the wear first.

Try to keep some hope for your motor, and remember, if necessary, it can be fixed. Start looking over what and how to do this on:

http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/

let us know what you find.

here's hoping..... NAM VET
 

just me

Member
322
10
18
Location
phoenix,az
A pump failure will usually very quickly FILL the crankcase with fuel. (It can pump over a pint a minute) To the point of pouring out at the seals and any other opening. If your dipstick wasn't above the full mark, you caught it very early. (or it isn't actually a problem) Oil can smell like fuel if you have flooded the engine a time or two and it washed down the cylinders. It may be cranking slowly because of a loose electrical connection or bad battery. It MAY turn out to be a non issue. You just need to check everything if for nothing more than to ease your mind.
 

OutpostM37

Member
76
50
18
Location
Goldfield, Az
Be careful with the NOS fuel pump kits. These have components that are not compatible with todays blended fuels. You will have a reoccurring issue in a couple of seasons. I sent my fuel pump out to get rebuilt with diaphragms/components that will resist degradation from blended fuels. Then and Now had the pump back in 10 working days. You will receive your old pump internals back for inspection. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
Then and Now also has the flex fuel line in stock if yours needs to be replaced.
After you drain the oil, drop the pan. Inspection can be performed by removing a main cap or two (or more) and connecting rod bearings for inspection.
Best of luck
 

NAM VET

Member
40
2
8
Location
Rock Hill, SC
If you decide to pull the pan from below, here is a picture showing what you will see. You can only really get to one of the mains, and several of the rods, as you don't want to pull off a rear or front main cap just to check them. The oil pickup and crossover hinder some access. We are here to help you. I rebuilt my motor out of the truck. There are differing opinions on how to seal up the pan when you put it back on. For instance, the four pieces of the sump gasket tend to squirm around when you are trying to line up the pan holes and the gaskets. I put studs in the block corner holes, they helped to keep things lined up. ARP 1/4 20 thread studs have bullet heads to make starting a nut on them foolproof, and impossible to cross thread. A lot easier to start bolting things up. Let us know what you are finding.

NAM VET

 

RMSm37

New member
8
0
0
Location
Richmond BC Canada
keep in mind that the douglas valve is the lowest point in the manifold . any excess gas in the manifold will drain through the Douglas valve and into the crank case.
 
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