Geared hub in progress.

[DiverDarrell]

Don't forget to seal up the hole in spindle, or you will find oil in more in wanted places.

 

[Floridianson]

Thought it was the hub not the spindle we had to do. I left the CTIS hose on the back side of the axle housing. I will remove it and plug up to. Removed the hub line and the little fitting now to find the right size plug for the hub.

 

[DiverDarrell]

I guess as long as the air lines are sealaled all should be good to go. I'll likely remove my ctis as well to run higher psi in the tires.

 

[coachgeo]

... I'll likely remove my ctis as well to run higher psi in the tires.

You can keep the CTIS and run higher pressures by just adding more air in the tire can't you? Course you could always do as was discussed earlier in another thread and remove the CTIS computer and make it a manually adjustable pressure CTIS system

 

[Suprman]

I am thinking you can put a small resistor inline with the pressure transducer connection and trick the system into higher pressures.

 

[Floridianson]

Yea if I want to get rid off all CTIS lines then I will remove the rubber lines and plug up the back side line/hole. For right now I can leave the rubber line and not worry about the spindle hole just the wheel hub so I don't loose gear oil.

 

[DiverDarrell]

Well I know my rubber lines filled up with oil when the seal failed, my frame is well lubercated where the ctis vents. I would cap the lines to prevent losing oil out of them. Personally I would like to get the higher pressure ctis controller if I could find one that didn't cost so much.

 

[expeditionnw]

The CTIS can be set to run higher PSI. I got the info somewhere. I personally love my CTIS, cant imagine why anyone wouldn't want it. its such a great system to have if you are actually working the truck. Suppose not much need for parade duty.

 

[Floridianson]

No need to go off road with my tractor trailer grossing 36k as of yet. Have plenty of other MV's to get stuck with or tear up also getting rid of the inner grease bearing so both bearings are oil floating. Also my CTIS system was not working and I changed out the MTV rims for new combats I had because the rims bolts were rusted very bad.

 

[Floridianson]

Got one side of the milked axle done with all new bearings and hub gearing. Here on the cross you can see where water made it on both sides of the CTIS seals trashing both side bearings and gears. Even had rust on the hub shim. Problem if you get water on the inner bearing you will not know till you pull the hub. Yes you could check for water on the gear side by just putting the fill plug at 6 but you will be guessing about the inner.

 

[Floridianson]

Just about rapping it up and once again thanks to NDT getting me the last thrust washer that was left out. I have been using the O rings for the cross that came in the two kits. Needed two more sets so I used my Hyd. kit and #913 looked the best fit. I know it was sealed with lots of silicone but I am using and no leaks High Tac brush on. I just clean both hub and spindle with brake clean and only apply the High Tac to the hub and no leaks so far. I cleaned the hub bolts real well and used nothing on them as they are blind. I will run the truck awhile and if all good will take out one at a time bolts and use blue thread locker and 40 foot pounds. Been a learning thing and all seemed to go as Steve showed us. Well maybe the inner hub seal through me off but got all new seals and I am glad this is coming to a end.

 

[f8617]

...It took four tries to get the correct shims in but believe I got it correct. Had to use the Mexican micrometer to gage the size. LOL
I use High Tack gasket sealer on hub and end cap....

2 questions: Where, exactly, are you making the measurement? Is the TM wrong, why isn't the axle nut torqued to ~400ft-lbs to seat the bearings & seals?

 

[DiverDarrell]

The shims set the gear lash from one of the hub gears to the 4 spider like gears. There is the PM way to do it, and then there is Steve 6x6x6 way to do it. Both ways need special type tools. Proper set up is key to long lasting and quiet hubs. The spindle nut is only 20 ft/lb of torque. 400 would bind and lock up the hub. 450 ft/lb is used for the wheel nuts.

 

[Floridianson]

All of mine were finger tight when I opened it up. I was able to get the 20 on most of them and not have to back off one spline. Sure seems like it should be tighter. I did notice on one of the outer bearings it looked like the bearing was spinning on the spindle because of not being seated well. As said I just did what it called for.
Glad I did mine with the water intrusion and very little grease in the inners. As said the front I left inner greased and the two back are now oil floating. Even if my CTIS was working I much rather have oil floating than a CTIS system. It was not a bad job with the right tools and even having to go back on the front axle and redo the hub seals. Just wish I would have asked before about them.
Maybe Steve could tell us why the TM has the preload so low. I would fell better if it was closer to 35 foot pounds. If we could bring that number up I have no problem going back in.

 

[DiverDarrell]

My thought to the low torque value is tha due to the diameter of the nut and the thread count, is clamping force is higher with less torque.