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Gen 2 light / Alternator trouble fixed the hard way

tmike

New member
20
1
3
Location
texas
Warning to all folks that have a "GEN 2" light not working - and no charge from Alt 2:

If you tested and changed the bulb, replaced an alternator, replaced the gen 2 relay, and tested all circuits per TM and it still doesn't work ----

drum roll please....

Then sand down the GEN2 brass bulb socket leads and install a confirmed good bulb. Then sit back and enjoy while the fat lady sings!!! fat lady sings

and after the elation has worn off -- have a good cry for all the unnecessary misery you just went through.:cry:

TMike

PS - No I didn't actually replace all that but I was on the verge of tearing my alternator down and checking the diodes. As Luck would have it -- I got distracted with replacing bad bulbs in the instrument panel, and decided to sand down the brass leads on one of the bulb sockets that was flickering. Then I thought "gee whiz, why not sand down the GEN2 socket?" So I did. The rest is history --- lesson learned.
 

AlexFolino

New member
60
0
0
Location
Pittsburgh Pennsylvania
Im going to give this a shot, i rebuilt my pass alternator xmas eve, installed 2 new relays. One of the relays was totally missing this whole entire time i owned the truck! My own stupidity for not checking. Now i do have a GEN2 light but its always on and never goes out. Still putting out battery voltage running. When i get home im going to try cleaning this socket.
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
1,630
49
48
Location
Riverside, CA, USA
I'm resurrecting this thread to say THANK YOU! This weekend I decided to resurrect one of my CUCVs that has been sitting idle for at least a couple of years. I was surprised to be able to recharge the thoroughly-dead batteries enough to (barely) crank over the engine and get it started, and then disappointed to find that my right alternator wasn't charging the rear battery. I was pretty close to deciding to pull out the alternator to inspect and repair it when I found this thread.

Sure enough, cleaning the contacts on my gen #2 bulb made the alternator start working again! :beer:

On the topic of cleaning electrical stuff and replacing rubber stuff, I have another CUCV that had "transmission slips" written on the inside of the driver's door in grease pencil when I got it from GL. I haven't driven that one a lot, but I think that I fixed the slipping problem by replacing a decomposed rubber vacuum plug.
 

salt6

Member
363
0
16
Location
B'ville, OK
Spent a day cleaning all the lights on the exterior and volla everything now lights and flashes as it should. :mrgreen:

Cleaned all the contacts on the instrument panel when I installed one, mine was awol when I got the truck. I also cleaned the fuse box and the ground above the parking break after I couldn't turn it off. Now it shuts down just fine.

So, clean electrical and replace rubber is a GOOD motto for the CUCV.
 
Difference betweeb gen1 and gen2 bulbs

Anyone have a ohmmeter that can test both bulbs and post the results? The tm's say they are different wattages, but wondering if there is enough of a difference electrically (vs brightness wise) to matter if they get replaced over time with the same bulb... or a different one as I am switching to deuce instrument panel lamps to free up the panel for 2 gauges.
 

Warthog

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Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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63
Location
OKC, OK
Anyone have a ohmmeter that can test both bulbs and post the results? The tm's say they are different wattages, but wondering if there is enough of a difference electrically (vs brightness wise) to matter if they get replaced over time with the same bulb... or a different one as I am switching to deuce instrument panel lamps to free up the panel for 2 gauges.
Already covered this


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/63308-instrument-cluster-questions.html

Post #6
 

vtjumpr

New member
8
0
0
Location
Starksboro,VT
Alternator not turning on

Having trouble with the alts not turing on. Both bench test fine and batterys are new. HELP!!
1986 M1009
 
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Warthog

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The trucks where designed that way.

Take the instrument cluster out and clean it. It needs it anyway at is has 25+ years of dirt on it.

Use the troubleshooting section of the TMs to find your problem.

No need to reinvent the wheel. The design works.

One thing you do need to do is the Starter Relay upgrade. Also known as the Doghead Relay upgrade. . It will save you from possibly burning down your truck.
 

donalloy1

New member
673
1
0
Location
Martinez Ca
Instead of Sanding Landings. Just a suggestion. Try liberal coats on all connections w/Burndy Penetrox A-13. Introduce with acid brush. Trust me, you will be very happy with results2cents
 

Warthog

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Instead of piggybacking this thread why don't you start a new one. Looks like we will need to do some troubleshooting on your system.
 
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Warthog

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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OKC, OK
Sorry for the poor wording of my earlier post.

As a site member you can start a new thread. Just go the Forum you want to post in and the click on the "New Thread" button towards the top of the page.

We will be glad to help you work thru the issues you are having with your truck. I just didn't want your problems to be lost inside this thread.
 

TedO

Member
123
7
18
Location
San Diego, CA
Its seems odd that everybody has corrosion specifically on the gen 2 socket. doesnt it??? My gen2 light isnt working either. Someone below says something that implies that the faulty light prevents the gen 2 from charging the battery. Is this true?? I thought I would just leave it alone, since it doesnt seem to be giving me any problems.

I noticed when driving at night, when I turned the fan up full blast, that I see a faint red glow coming out of my gen 1 light. Is this normal??
 
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