Genarater 1 light

[Wartburg]

My Generator One light does not come on until I rev the engine. Then it comes on and will not go back off until I turn the engine off and then start it again. I had the drivers side altanator tested on the truck and it did not show charing on the battery at the front of the truck. I took the Drivers side alternator off and had it tested again. It showed it was charging 17 volts. I then took of the passenger side alternator and had it tested. It read 12 volts. I know a guy that just took the engine out of a cucv and I went and got his passenger side alternator. It tested 12 volts also. I believe I read that the passenger side only needed to charge at 12 volts.
I also took the wiring harness and black light running system out of the other truck. My front lights had been painted before I got the truck and the switch had been black out light switch had been taken off along with a lot of other hot-wiring and jumpers under the dash. I was thinking about taking the wires harness out and starting over. Any suggestions.
I also read something on another web site that said that both driver and passenger Generators are the same. Then I read that the driver side is the same as a 78 Caddy and the passanger was different because it had Ground that ran to the ground block the fire wall


I no this has been talked about but I did a search with alternator and Generator as the key search word and could not get anything to come up. I also looked threw 17 pages and did not see anything.

 

[Crash_AF]

Both alternators are 12V and should put out 14V at idle. If they are more than that, the regulator in that alternator is bad.

The alternators on both sides are isolated ground alternators to simplify keeping spares for the military.

I would highly recommend going through the wiring harness and stripping out any modifications done. Removing the entire wiring harness from the truck isn't hard, just time consuming. I completely gutted my 1009 and replaced everything for just that reason. The only part of the wiring that is still what came with the truck is the harness from the fuse block to the taillights. Of course, that's the only part of the harness that actually worked as it was supposed to and wasn't hacked beyond easy repair too.

If you have any questions about CUCV wiring, feel free to PM me. I've probably already been through it... LOL

Later,
Joe

 

[Wartburg]

Thanks Joe. I am not certain that the tester was turning at Idling speed. I had took it off and put it on a belt driven tester in the store. It was probable turning a lot faster than the 6.2 at ideal. I am not certain it was 17 volts on the good one there was a mark on the gauge between 15 and 17 that said good. The other two (the one on my truck and the one I took off the other truck) both just pulled 12 volts. You are probable right that it is a resister on the number one Gen because it did not come on until I rev the engine. I am not looking forward to the coast of rebuilding three Altantors.

 

[Wartburg]

I took the gen #1 and #2 off and the new one I picked up too the rebuild shop. They tested them again there. Gen #2 and the used one are both reading good. So I am getting the old gen #1 rebuilt for a spar. Auto zone did not know how to test a generator with an external ground. I also found two blown fuses in the fuse panel. My voltage regulator is working again.

 

[TyJustice]

To save me from pulling all my fuses...What two fuse were blown, as my voltage regulator is not working as well.

If you could narrow it down to the fuse # would help.

Thanks

 

[Wartburg]

The one that your looking for is marked as a 20 amp on the top left side (second from the top) under the hazard lights. It is marked engine con. The other fuse box i found had a 25amp fuse in it

 

[TyJustice]

Thanks...

Checked that fuse and it was fine.

I guess I need to trouble shoot a little more.