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Glow Plug Control Card

GOOSE101213

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I have an 1985 M1009. The electrical system was shorted out when Advance Auto flipped a battery upside down and attempted to 'jump it off', and crossed the terminals and blew the battery up. This sequentially shorted out both alternators, the starter, glow plugs, glow plug relay and glow plug control card. Probably fried a few resistors as well. We've replaced necessary wiring, connectors, fus links, the glow plugs, both batteries, glow plug relay, re-built one generator, (going to re-build the 12 volt one next week), and re-built the starter...which is giving a nasty whine when cranking (what could be the cause of that?). I am still in need of a glow plug control card. I have mine, but I cannot read the value of the resistor or capacitor that is shorted out. Does anyone: 1. have a schematic where I can get the values? I have a technician that can fix it if we can get the values. 2. Know where I can get another one for a backup? And 3. Know what is causing the whine in the starter?
I can get you a picture via email or picture mail to show what the card looks like, and show you what is burned up.
Insurance is supposed to be paying for this, but as of yet, they have not re-reimbursed me for my expenses. I have been forced to retain a lawyer, so as you can imagine, I'm broke! Thanks for any help!!!:-D
 

Crash_AF

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Hi Chris,
You need to upload your file as an attachment, not an [IMG tagged hyperlink... the pic will help someone get you the value of the component that blew.

Sorry to hear that you're still having problems from Advance Auto's boneheads behind the counter.

Later,
Joe
 

GOOSE101213

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Knoxville, TN
Thanks. Here is the card, the quarter is to show size, and the two wires are pointing to the electronic components that are burned up, the one closest to the bottom just crumbled apart. :-D Can anyone help me to get me a value for them, or a schematic with values?

By the way, you guys have been very informative.
Thank you Luis for the phone conversation, I appreciated it very much.
Chris
 

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GOOSE101213

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Can anyone pull their card and read off the numbers, or values for me. I hate to pay 85 to 350 dollars for a part that I may not be able to return, because pictures are not included in the description. The parts needing replaced cost 1 to 2 dollars; I work for a school that has instructors in electronic engineering that can do the work, with the correct information. If someone has a schematic on that level would be good as well. I've researched each and every TM and they don't go down to that level. Or if anyone has a spare to sell, I would be thankful there, I could repair mine and have a backup.
Goose
:beer:
 

gaunt1969

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bessemer, al.
The one you showed that burnt is a diode. It is used to counter inductive kick from the gp relay when the magnetic field collaspes. This causes an induced voltage up into the thousands of volts to back feed in the circuit. This is the same effect an ignition coil uses to produce its high voltage spike. The diode gives the voltage a path to return to the gp coil without going back through the circuit. Just use a simple rectifier diode from radio shack, Like a 1 watt .
The usual cause for these to blow is to be reversed biased. Or to just have a defect from the start.
 

CARNAC

The Envelope Please.
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The one you showed that burnt is a diode. It is used to counter inductive kick from the gp relay when the magnetic field collaspes. This causes an induced voltage up into the thousands of volts to back feed in the circuit. This is the same effect an ignition coil uses to produce its high voltage spike. The diode gives the voltage a path to return to the gp coil without going back through the circuit. Just use a simple rectifier diode from radio shack, Like a 1 watt .
The usual cause for these to blow is to be reversed biased. Or to just have a defect from the start.

Uh, YEAH. What he said.

Wish I knew that magical art of electronics. :)
 

Crash_AF

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It blew because the boneheads at Advance Auto hooked up batteries wrong and sent a reverse polarity through the system, blowing up all sorts of stuff...

As was said before, the completely blown off item is a diode, it is typically used to prevent reverse polarity from going through the system, and enough current (amperage) will cause it to break down (or melt off in this case) which the high amp reverse polarity short caused by AA would do.

The other item is a resistor, the color bands tell the resistance value of it. I can't tell what color the third band is in the pics, it's either orange or red. Decoding the bands I get a value of either 51 kΩ (kilo-ohms) with a +/- 5% tolerance if the band is orange or 5.1 kΩ +/- 5% if the band is red.

As long as the traces on the back aren't too badly burned, you should be able to replace the two components and be ok.

Later,
Joe
 

GOOSE101213

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Thanks, will get this info to my tech guy and see what he can do. Just to recap:
The burnt (missing) diode's value = 1 watt
the resistor, if orange = 51 ko, if red = 5.1 ko +/- 5%?
Is the resistor going to burn up if I put in the wrong diode?
"Billet" sent a picture of a card, and that diode is in sequnce......
Green, orange, red and gold.
Am I missing anything??
Billet, can you show me a picture of the ENTIRE card?
Thanks guys, sorry to be so nitpicky, but like I mentioned before, this is an insurance job, and I don't want to 'burn up' the workd already accomplished.
Thanks,
Goose
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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Colorado Springs, CO
In the last picture, comparing the beige resistor to the blue resistor just above it near the chip, it looks like the band is red. The color bands are green, brown, red, gold which makes it a 5.1 kΩ resistor. The black thing with the silver band and numbers in the last picture is the diode that smoked on yours. In the post linked below, there is a pic of a glow plug card that does not have the diode in question at all, it has the location with the marking 'Z4' which suggests a Zener Diode, but the holes are tinned over and it looks factory. I dunno if you could get away with just cleaning up the burned mess and replacing the resistor without putting the diode back in the circuit or if yours (and both of mine) require it to function.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/33903-glow-plug-card-repair-4.html

Later,
Joe
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Schertz TX
The one you showed that burnt is a diode. It is used to counter inductive kick from the gp relay when the magnetic field collaspes. This causes an induced voltage up into the thousands of volts to back feed in the circuit. This is the same effect an ignition coil uses to produce its high voltage spike. The diode gives the voltage a path to return to the gp coil without going back through the circuit. Just use a simple rectifier diode from radio shack, Like a 1 watt .
The usual cause for these to blow is to be reversed biased. Or to just have a defect from the start.
Exactly. The terminology for that application is "freewheeling diode".

When repairing circuits, most printed circuit boards have component identifications listed to a bill of materials so "R27" just means a resistor off the BOM line 27. Actual values and tolerances are not printed on the PCB.
 

Stihl029

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Kodiak, AK
Yes there are two models of the glow plug controller card that I have found I have one of each. For the most part they seem Identical but there are some differences. One has a few more components than the other, seems like protection added to the circuitry.
 

gaunt1969

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bessemer, al.
you can get away with not replacing the diode and it will work, "for a while" that diode keeps a few thousand volts from back feeding into your circuit, just go to rat shack and get a rectifier diode I dont recomend a zener for this application they will work but are not as well suited for this. 2cents
 
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