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glow plug controller bypass

Warthog

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What a piece of engineering.

If you want to "fix" it do the following:

1 - Remove the white wire from the GP relay
2 - reconnect the light blue wires - ground
3 - reconnect the pink wires - 12v power that is always on with the key
4 - replace the GP relay with a new unit. Yours is more than likely is burnt out by having 24v applied to it (may be good, will have to test)
5 - move the white wire to the small post with the light blue ground wire
6 - move the green wire to the mounting screw for the relay. This assumes that the wire goes to one of the terminals on the manual switch

The switch will now manually control the relay

7 - remove second green wire from manual switch. Assumes it goes to the wait light
8 - disconnect both green wires at wait light (where does the second green wire go?)
9 - reconnect the pink wires
10 - find the cut blu wire and reconnect blue wires
11 - replace burned out light bulbs - type 168 (you may have many burnt bulbs because of the 24v feeding thru the system)

When you have yor wiring guru work on the truck, make sure he consults the wiring diagrams before he starts hacking up the wiring more because he doesn't understand the system

I had to fix a friends M1009 a couple of weeks ago. His truck was broken into and the batteries stolen. They cut the battery leads so they had to be replaced. He had his car repair shop work on the batteries. They hacked it and rewired it back to 12v without making the proper changes. Also put in some small civvy batteries and used zip ties to make the bentup battery hold downs fit. They are professionals.
 

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Warthog

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Super Moderator
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The easiest way to add a manual switch is to just add a wire to the terminal with the light blue wire, run that to a HD manual switch and then to ground. Easy Peasy.

That way the GP controller card can still function and you have a manual backup if needed
 

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5moker

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Niceville/Florida
Very good! I will have tms pulled up for my guy. He is a friend and understands dual batterties parallel and series wiring. My IP was rebuilt and is now 12V (prior to my purchasing it) I Believe he will want to redo gp to factory first and start trouble shooting through the tms. I work with him on the boats now and he deals with multiple battery hook-ups running 12v and 24v systems,his prior experiance was in automotive electrionics now marine with 15 years exp. I am sure he will put me on the right path. I have been talking to him all week and he may tell me to go get a starter (last 24v Item in the truck) and go to a 12v system. IDK. He may tell me to pull the harness so we can build a new one? He is a perfectionist! My alternators are not charging either. I am getting 27 volts at passengerside and 12.5 on driver side at idle. I feel another major project will soon take place just don't know which way he will send me with the electrical. It may have a marine grade fuse/junction box in it before it is done LOL. At least it runs good and strong now!!! It will look decent by Sunday. Then to the rest of the bugs!!! Thanks for bringing the fire hazard to my attention!!! A lot of work behind me and a lot to go! I will get it worked out eventually! Thanks for the advice. In hindsight my first post was crap! Thanks warthog for the advice! I have been focused on so many other issues I haven't even addressed the electrical. I should've realized what you said, but I am running my self ragged between work and this project. Hoping to have it ready for the summer. Anxious to get it titled and on the road, but I want it reliable and SAFE first!
 
Last edited:

charlietango

Member
505
20
18
Location
Winnipeg
I was told that the card on my truck was fried, so the button was installed. Seems to be good to go, why they didn't ground the wire from the button under the dash is kind of weird but at least its done right. I think I have a bad front battery which is making it very bitchy to start. it cranks, smokes, but doesn't catch until many many tries later. Then it catches in such a way that I have to hold the key on for a bit longer than normal.
 

5moker

New member
37
0
0
Location
Niceville/Florida
What a piece of engineering.

If you want to "fix" it do the following:

1 - Remove the white wire from the GP relay
2 - reconnect the light blue wires - ground
3 - reconnect the pink wires - 12v power that is always on with the key
4 - replace the GP relay with a new unit. Yours is more than likely is burnt out by having 24v applied to it (may be good, will have to test)
5 - move the white wire to the small post with the light blue ground wire
6 - move the green wire to the mounting screw for the relay. This assumes that the wire goes to one of the terminals on the manual switch

The switch will now manually control the relay

7 - remove second green wire from manual switch. Assumes it goes to the wait light
8 - disconnect both green wires at wait light (where does the second green wire go?)
9 - reconnect the pink wires
10 - find the cut blu wire and reconnect blue wires
11 - replace burned out light bulbs - type 168 (you may have many burnt bulbs because of the 24v feeding thru the system)

When you have yor wiring guru work on the truck, make sure he consults the wiring diagrams before he starts hacking up the wiring more because he doesn't understand the system

I had to fix a friends M1009 a couple of weeks ago. His truck was broken into and the batteries stolen. They cut the battery leads so they had to be replaced. He had his car repair shop work on the batteries. They hacked it and rewired it back to 12v without making the proper changes. Also put in some small civvy batteries and used zip ties to make the bentup battery hold downs fit. They are professionals.
OK. This is where I am. I rewired the gp relay and light to factory wiring. I turn the key on and wait light/relay cycles for what appears to be proper. When I start the truck the wait light flickers (only while running). We got the generator lights working properly and generators charging (gen 1 starts charging after a short rev of the motor and is only 13.7 volts not 14.4.). he suggested a rebuild on gen 1. What would be causing my wait light to flicker like that? Controller card? When I ground the relay (as if it were through the push button)I get no wait light at all. What would you do? Oh yeah we stripped 4 unfused accessory wires that were all unfused and installed a fuse box for 12V Accessories. Feel safer now!
 
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