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Glow Plug issues, round 2.

Screamer27

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Already searched for about an hour....

About a month ago, I had all 8 glow plugs burned out. I replaced all the plugs. I checked the Relay, and it was ok. The controller card was working fine, so I just guessed one plug went, and caused all of them to go. Well I ordered all new Wellman 070's. I put them in, and bypassed the resistor bank. I ran a new wire straight from the front battery to the relay, (12v) to help cause this issue to not happen again.

Well about the 9th or 10th start, it was being a pain again. I checked again, and have 4 bad plugs. I'm already getting tired of throwing money into plugs. What could be causing the plugs to go bad again. I know the controller cycles a few times yet after it first starts, I've checked, and its 12v's. The connectors on the plugs are a little loose on some, but since it's bypassed to 12v it shouldn't take them out that way. Any insight, before this 6.2 gets ripped out and thrown in a ditch, and replaced by a 350.
 

doghead

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Bad GPs. Try some AC60Gs.
 

tommyboy

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I had the same thing happen it was the controller card was staying on
and burning the glow plugs out I put ac g13 plugs in it and a push
button to man control the glow plugs it works great I drive the truck
every day the g13 plugs have been in there for a year.
last night -5 deg. truck started right up.
I think most glow plugs burn out because controller card is not
shutting off and over heats plugs.
by the way AC G13 plugs is the OEM part for the truck.
 

gaunt1969

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bessemer, al.
and I would tighten up those connectors on your glow plugs and make shure All of them are getting voltage. If they are loose and one is not makeing contact or one not getting voltage, It will burn em up.
 

Screamer27

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Well I got some new ac60g's from Napa. Got some new female spade terminals, and a switch... wish me luck.


lets start a chant.... there will be no swollen plugs,
There will be no swollen plugs,
there will be no swollen plugs,
there will be no...
 

Screamer27

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Of course cyl 8 had to be stuck, only took 2 hours with a prybar and vise grips. It finally came out. All ac60g's are in... now its time to fix the rest of the problems with it.
 

robesetz

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NC
AC 60G's

So is it ok to file down the blades on these plugs? I bought some AC 60G's today but took them back when I realized the blades where to big. should I try to find some AC 13G's? Does anyone know where to find them? Should I just order the GO70 wellmans from www.indusadist.com ?
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
So is it ok to file down the blades on these plugs? I bought some AC 60G's today but took them back when I realized the blades where to big. should I try to find some AC 13G's? Does anyone know where to find them? Should I just order the GO70 wellmans from www.indusadist.com ?
If you have push button glow plugs I think most would say the delco 60's....someone on here recommends using a dremel to file down the ends, or buying the correct females and soldering them on.2cents
 

robesetz

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Location
NC
I just purchased my M1028 and everything is OEM. All the components tested ok, just need plugs. I remember seeing a post stating the wellman plugs are better for an original setup. Does that still hold true? I just hate to buy something new and then having to modifying it to work. Maybe with a CUCV I should get used to it!
 

jakwi

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Location
Colorado Springs
You know it could be the controller card, or the relay sticking. If you think they are staying on an easy way to check is to hook a
light up to GP side of the relay. The Light will be on when there is power to the gp's. I did that and what I see is that the wait light goes out, but the GPs stay on for an additional 20 sec or so after the engine starts. I set this gp "indicator light" on my dash

If you find that the GP's are staying on move the light wire to the control pin on the relay, This will tell you what the GP card is telling the relay today. i suppose you could hook up two lights at the same time. One for the gp side of the relay and the other on the
control pin on the relay. They should go on and off at the same time. If either light stays on for more than a few seconds you either have a bad relay or a bad card, depending on where the card is you'll know which.

As a caveat if it's the card you might check the temp sensor that the card reads.

In anycase you'll have a better idea of what's going on. FWIW I us the AC60g's and they've worked good for me. As a plus
Advanced/checker/oreily has a 1 year warranty on these which could help you while you figure out your problem.
 
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