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GLOW PLUG nightmare !

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
Hi All,

I know this subjet has been discussed a lot but I was not able to find a solution for my issue.

My truck had low batteries last monhts so I was starting it with a booster. After a couple of times, I realised that the GP relay was "staying on" and he was almost burning.
It became crazy hot and made some smoke while the engine was turning...

I decided to replace the relay and bought some new batteries ;
when that was done, no more "wait" light in the dash, but I can clearly hear the noise of the relay.
The truck is starting well but after a couple of minutes, I can smell a "burning plastic or a bruning electrical wire smell".
Something else unusual : in the past, the voltmeter showed 28V after 2-3 min running ; now he's giving me only 24V and a little bit more if I push on the throttle.

I know a lot of issues comme from the Glow Plug card / module but I don't know if mine is working like it should or not. And I don't know how to test it.
It had one of the small resitors which was burned; a guy from an electroshop replaced that component and told me that he checked all the other ones. But he can't guarantee that the card is working like it should. He can just test all the small components (not the processor) individually without knowing what they are doing in the truck's system.


Does somebody had an idea ?

Appolgies for English, this is not my native language.

Regards
Nathan
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,263
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
First off lets see some pictures of the resistor and relay under the hood. What glow plugs do you have? And are you able to buy a glow plug card from a dealer? I mean a dealer in the US that sells the glow plug cards. If not I will help you get one to Belgium. Let me know. But let me see if you have any hacking going on. Chopping and modification of the wiring harness. Änderung der Verkabelung
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
First off lets see some pictures of the resistor and relay under the hood. What glow plugs do you have? And are you able to buy a glow plug card from a dealer? I mean a dealer in the US that sells the glow plug cards. If not I will help you get one to Belgium. Let me know. But let me see if you have any hacking going on. Chopping and modification of the wiring harness. Änderung der Verkabelung
Good evening Cucvrus,
Thanks a lot for your help !
I can’t make pictures right now because the truck is at a mechanicals garage. But to be honnest I’m afraid that I’m gonna spend a lot of money for nothing because people here are not familiar with these cars. Especially the military diesel version with a 24v system ... 😞

The relay is not the original one. But is the same that I was using since a year. The one where is written « made in mexico » on it 😅
I’ve never looked for the resistors and I don’t know what their function is but I assume they are original.

To buy a new card is impossible here. I’ve been looking on internet and I’ve found some new ones made by « hillbillywizard « . It’s a bit expensive but do I have another option ? I’m wondering how the quality from those is ?

I realy would like to be sure that the card is the problem before buying one. But I guess that will hard to say ?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,263
9,552
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
First thing I would do is remove the glow plugs and bench test them. Next I would check and see if you have current going thru the relay at the brake master cylinder. I think you said no wait light. Maybe check the sensor on the rear of the drivers side head upper side. Make sure the plug is secure and the wires are not shorted. I can think of many things to check. Is the fuse good? Do the Gen 1, Gen 2 and oil light illuminate when the key is on? Make sure all the fuses are good and check connections. Use a test light. It is the easiest way. I hardly ever use anything but a test light and get by well. Good Luck. When you get the truck back post some pictures. I will try and help if I can and yes the new cards are great. I have used a few. Take care.
 
Last edited:

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Rhein-Main Area, Germany
Forum member "antennaclimber" sells glow plug cards. They are newly made with some improvements, I've got them in most of my CUCVs and the work great.

....... the glow plug cards at hillbillywizard are from antennaclimber ...... as far as I know.
A few years ago I had to take also a detour to get my card to germany......... antennaclimber does not ship outside of the states.
But that doesn't change the quality, the cards are great
 

Rutjes

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Give the guys at usa2you.nl a call or e-mail. They'll get it to you. I had them handle 4 or 5 shipments. Their fee is 30 or 35 euros, so best to get more parts you'll need, but with their volume rates at FedEx and money saved on import fees it'll be cheaper then having it shipped by the seller or yourself. Then again, just a glow plug card can't cost THAT much in shipping and import fees...

I bought a glow plug card at hillbilly wizard myself, looks to be well build, but I haven't tried it yet though.
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
First of all, thanks to all of you for your answers.

Indeed hillbilly wizard doesn’t ship to europe :( But I have a friend in Florida, I assume he can get it and send it to me.
Most of you seem to be positive by the quality of these new cards ; that’s good news !
There are expensive but if they are a little stronger than the original one ; why not ... ?
From what I’ve read, A LOT of people have had issues with these cards. I wouldn’t be surpised that my problems come from there.
Is there a way the get these cards repaired ? Any feedback about that ?

The generator lights work. The « Wait » light doesn’t.

I was thinking about this scenario :
What if the glow plugs are working without interruption ?

That could explain why the truck starts eassily; why hive gives only 24v (the rest could used by the glow plugs) That explains also that I can clearely hear the « click » of the preheat solenoid.
And could maybe explain the smell of « burned glow plugs » ?
Only thing that this doen’t match is the « wait » light. But if the light bubl in the dash is just burned as well ?

Does that hypothesis sounds possible ?
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
Y'oure right, sorry ;
I'll try to share a maximum of pictures as soon as I can.

I'm so concerned about this situation,
my truck is in a garage and I'm pretty sure they won't find the solution but ask me tons of money for the hours of investigation.
I'm in contact with the guy and I share him all info i've found on the topic + technical manuals... I hope it will help him a bit ...

Do some of you believe that my theory could be possible ? Is it possible to run the truck for an hour or more with the glow plugs heating continuously ?
I've so many doubts about the GP controller card and I'm sure he won't try exclude that first.
Is there an actuel way to see if she does the job like it should be done ?
 

antennaclimber

Moderator
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
State College, PA
Too soon to start buying parts. Get it out of the shop before they do more damage, and get some pictures posted. We'll get you going. Got to take it one step at a time.
I agree with Marcus. Get the truck back so you can work on it.

Did you replace the GP relay with the proper one? It needs to be an isolated relay that has no common connection between the relay coil and the high current contacts. Proper replacements are a NAPA ST85 or a Trombetta 974-1215-011-09

Pull the GP card out of the holder, see if the GP relay still closes (it should not) and verify that the burning smell does not occur with the card out. One caution, do not use a pair of needle nose pliers or other metal tools to remove the card from the holder. And do not remove it with metal tools when it has power applied to it.

With the GP card out and the engine running, check the system voltage to verify if it has come back to a nominal 28 volts.

It would help if you had a voltmeter for any basic CUCV electrical system diagnosis and troubleshooting.

As for the GP cards, all New cards from Hillbilly Wizards are from my shop. Get them while they are still available.
Karl
 
41
11
8
Location
Germany
Y'oure right, sorry ;
I'll try to share a maximum of pictures as soon as I can.

I'm so concerned about this situation,
my truck is in a garage and I'm pretty sure they won't find the solution but ask me tons of money for the hours of investigation.
I'm in contact with the guy and I share him all info i've found on the topic + technical manuals... I hope it will help him a bit ...

Do some of you believe that my theory could be possible ? Is it possible to run the truck for an hour or more with the glow plugs heating continuously ?
I've so many doubts about the GP controller card and I'm sure he won't try exclude that first.
Is there an actuel way to see if she does the job like it should be done ?
Hi Nathan , my CUCV has been converted to manual glow , so without a controler card . It only glows when i press the button .
Maybe they can rebuild it for you in the workshop ?
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
I agree with Marcus. Get the truck back so you can work on it.

Did you replace the GP relay with the proper one? It needs to be an isolated relay that has no common connection between the relay coil and the high current contacts. Proper replacements are a NAPA ST85 or a Trombetta 974-1215-011-09

Pull the GP card out of the holder, see if the GP relay still closes (it should not) and verify that the burning smell does not occur with the card out. One caution, do not use a pair of needle nose pliers or other metal tools to remove the card from the holder. And do not remove it with metal tools when it has power applied to it.

With the GP card out and the engine running, check the system voltage to verify if it has come back to a nominal 28 volts.

It would help if you had a voltmeter for any basic CUCV electrical system diagnosis and troubleshooting.

As for the GP cards, all New cards from Hillbilly Wizards are from my shop. Get them while they are still available.
Karl
Hi Karl,

Thanks for your advise. I will try to take it back from the garage; don’t know how to explain that but i’ll find a way.

The relayis another brand than the ones you said. But it's the same than the who was in the car for more than a year. (When it worked)
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
How can I check of the i have 28v ; if the relay doesnt clik ; i wont get the engine started , right ?

You’re making those cards ? I guess you’ll tell me that the quality is good ? Are you able to send it to me in Belgium ?
 

antennaclimber

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,348
882
113
Location
State College, PA
Start the truck and then pull the card. Practice pulling the card out first with no power applied so you know how the get it out.

As for export shipping. See if you can use someone that is experienced with shipping items out of the US. There are people that can provide that service. I know that we have cards all over the planet, so it can be done.
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
Start the truck and then pull the card. Practice pulling the card out first with no power applied so you know how the get it out.

As for export shipping. See if you can use someone that is experienced with shipping items out of the US. There are people that can provide that service. I know that we have cards all over the planet, so it can be done.
Hi Everybody,

I’ve been to the shop where my truck is this morning. It started to obsess me 😅

@antennaclimber ; i’ve done the test you advised me.
@cucvrus I’ve made the pictures you asked for.

First of all : it’s not easy to remove that card without damaging it ... is there a specific tool for it ?

I think the test was very useful ; here bellow the first results :
-> No card = no relay click
(But when the engine was hot, I could start the engine without the card.) I guess that’s normal - No glow needed if the engine is hot.

-> Removing the card after have started the engine gives the following results :

1. I could hear the relay click when I removed the card ; I guess that click was the « switching off process» of the relay and the glowplug system.

2. No card = voltmeter showes +-29 V ..
Which make more sense than the 24V I had continuously when the card was in place.

3. This card is the orignal card I had in the truck.
But it went bad before and was repaired in a local electroshop. Now I noticed the same repaired component Melted and burned again. It’s in prety bad condition and could explain the smell (see picture). My second card is burned exactly on the same spot and it is since last week in the same electroshop for restoration.

about the card : the guy is able to replace components and test them individually but he cant test the processor and isn’t able to tell me if the cards are still working properly after having changed these pieces.

My conclusions are : There is something wrong with the glow process and it’s not coming from the alternators.

The card has an issu but is it the cause or the consequence of something else ???
I’ll probably buy a new one from hillbilly wizard but regarding the price and the difficulties to have it send here ; I don’t want to burn it right away.

Did I burn the cards by starting the truck many times with a booster ? I don’t know...
Or because of low batteries ?

I assume I drove at least one hour (maybe more) with the relay locked in the « on » position. That could explain why he was super hot.
I don’t know if he is damaged or not?
What about the glowplugs , I guess they where heating continuously ? Did they burn or swole, I don’t know. The truck started easily but the weather is quite warm for now and batteries new....

What are the pro’s advises and ? 😉🙏
Again, thanks a lot for your help !!!
 

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