Glow Plug Replacement

[Ramzi]

Update:

Replaced all 8 GPs with 3/8" Wellman plugs from Mike at Black Dog Custom - who was very helpful.
Unfortunately only one GP did not spec-out bad (0.8ohm).
Charged both batteries fully and we still have only a single brief flash on the "WAIT" light and no GP charge.

After talking to Tobash - who was also very helpful - he pointed me to Cam of Camoteck who sent me "the goods" very quickly and well packed.

But Ive got to wait until next week to see if we're cooking with diesel or not.... taking the '66 Fiat 500 to Cars and Coffee in Archer City, TX...
...If you know where that is you win a 10mm GP.

Will report back next week.
Thank you all for the excellent help so far!
r-

 

[taskunitbruiser]

One on the pass side, I could not budge to loosen as it is rusted on the head. I applied too much pressure and the head is now a bit rounded and a 3/8 won't grip it anymore.

I would try a propane torch and maybe some channel locks or specialized removal sockets. The welding idea sounds like something to consider as well, perhaps can weld some rod perpendicular and use as a lever to spin it out or weld a larger nut and get another socket.

One on the driver's side, I just put a socket on it and it literally disintegrated instantly and has no head to grip and just the center electrode sticking out.

Was it rusted? This one sounds tougher. It is fully threaded down? Maybe heat again and then some light pressure with channel locks if they fit. My thought is you may end up spinning the electrode and separating from the thread which could leave a hole in the head, i.e. no pressure.

 

[taskunitbruiser]

Update:

Replaced all 8 GPs with 3/8" Wellman plugs from Mike at Black Dog Custom - who was very helpful.
Unfortunately only one GP did not spec-out bad (0.8ohm).
Charged both batteries fully and we still have only a single brief flash on the "WAIT" light and no GP charge.

After talking to Tobash - who was also very helpful - he pointed me to Cam of Camoteck who sent me "the goods" very quickly and well packed.

But Ive got to wait until next week to see if we're cooking with diesel or not.... taking the '66 Fiat 500 to Cars and Coffee in Archer City, TX...
...If you know where that is you win a 10mm GP.

Will report back next week.
Thank you all for the excellent help so far!
r-

If your Smartbox goes out, Camoteck is the way to go.

 

[FlameRed]

I would try a propane torch and maybe some channel locks or specialized removal sockets. The welding idea sounds like something to consider as well, perhaps can weld some rod perpendicular and use as a lever to spin it out or weld a larger nut and get another socket.



Was it rusted? This one sounds tougher. It is fully threaded down? Maybe heat again and then some light pressure with channel locks if they fit. My thought is you may end up spinning the electrode and separating from the thread which could leave a hole in the head, i.e. no pressure.

The consensus of the knowledgeable forum members here is to leave these two glow plugs alone, and to not touch the remaining two others that I stopped at. Since I live in the Florida inferno it starts fine except for the smoke. I successfully replaced four.

I kind of agree with them as I can easily turn the rig from a starting and running rig to a non-runner. I do get a lot of blue smoke on startup now that I did not get before. Let's just say I don't have $3-$4k of cash to have a shop get the heads off and to a machine shop. I did find one shop willing to R&R the heads but only on an open ended basis at $145/hour since they did not know what else they were going to run into. Might be a better idea for me to try to save up some $ for a 6.5 engine swap.

My other problem is I cannot weld. And I am not sure what material the glow plugs are made out of can be welded to, easily at least.

Of course I could try soaking it in penetrating oil for days, and they put some dry ice on the glow plug to see if that will loosen it up. Warming up the engine too might help. But if I grab on the electrode and open it up, yup, I have a open cylinder and a non-runner.

 

[FlameRed]

Not that I am going to try to do anything more to further aggrevate my glow plug broken situation, but I did a bit of searching and when you search on Duramax glow plug stuck or broken, you get a LOT of information that is interesting, but not applicable to the HMMWV.

• You can get a air hammer socket adapter, which I did not know existed, that you can use to help get the glow plug out before you break it. So in addition to heat, cold, PB Blaster, you use this little do hickey on a air hammer to supply vibration while you attempt to gently remove them. Might have issue getting access on the pass side for this.

• Reference:

• If the glow plug disintegrated, like me, the next method is to try is to weld a nut on to the what remains of the glow plug sticking out the head.
• Reference

• The next method that will not work for us, are special kits for Duramax, Mercedes, and some others that will allow you to drill it out properly and extract it while saving the threads in the head. None of them that I saw would seem to fit the HMMWV. I would think it would be hard to use these on the pass side even if they fit as there is no room.

• Another method that did not seem to work was to use an Easy-out. But as you saw in the second video, it is more likely to break than work.

• Then there is the last ditch effort of drilling it out, and using a standard tap to clean out the threads and get all the garbage out of the cup! Your got to be lucky to pull this one off without something to center it and get the exact angle.

• Next would be to remove the head(s).

I cannot believe the Military did not develop a special kit for broken/stuck glow plugs like are available for Duramax/Mercedes. I guess DoD just replaces the engine if one gets broken!?!?!?!?

 

[Coug]

*snip*
I cannot believe the Military did not develop a special kit for broken/stuck glow plugs like are available for Duramax/Mercedes. I guess DoD just replaces the engine if one gets broken!?!?!?!?

Would you trust going out into a combat situation with an engine worked on by a teenager that never even looked under the hood of a car before they joined up 6 months previously?
Doing a job like that right can sometimes take almost as long as just yanking out the engine and shoving in a new one.
Remember, it isn't their own money that they are spending, so why do it the hard way?

 

[Ramzi]

The simple solution is usually the best.

This is by no means a solicited endorsement.... I just want to share my expericence.

Cam's Camotek systems Start Box solved the problem(s) - the truck starts like it should. No more worrying about IF it will start on a cold day.
Installation was painless and quick - Im sure you can YouTube dozens of folks who've already done it but I just read the instructions (weird, I know).

The thing which stood out the most on the Camotek box is the attention to detail. From the packaging to to the lock tight on the jam-nut for the remote push button - these are built right - and solid. The hardest part was drilling the hole for the optional remote push button because the steering wheel is in the way... other than that it was 100% straight forward.

The lesson learned hear is to ask questions before beginning any project if youre new to this world. There is a wealth of knowledge here and people willing to help and be aware of what you are buying.

Cam (Camotek), Mike (Mad Dog), Tobash - thank you for helping me to get back on the road.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Not that I am going to try to do anything more to further aggrevate my glow plug broken situation, but I did a bit of searching and when you search on Duramax glow plug stuck or broken, you get a LOT of information that is interesting, but not applicable to the HMMWV.

• You can get a air hammer socket adapter, which I did not know existed, that you can use to help get the glow plug out before you break it. So in addition to heat, cold, PB Blaster, you use this little do hickey on a air hammer to supply vibration while you attempt to gently remove them. Might have issue getting access on the pass side for this.

• Reference:

• If the glow plug disintegrated, like me, the next method is to try is to weld a nut on to the what remains of the glow plug sticking out the head.
• Reference

• The next method that will not work for us, are special kits for Duramax, Mercedes, and some others that will allow you to drill it out properly and extract it while saving the threads in the head. None of them that I saw would seem to fit the HMMWV. I would think it would be hard to use these on the pass side even if they fit as there is no room.

• Another method that did not seem to work was to use an Easy-out. But as you saw in the second video, it is more likely to break than work.

• Then there is the last ditch effort of drilling it out, and using a standard tap to clean out the threads and get all the garbage out of the cup! Your got to be lucky to pull this one off without something to center it and get the exact angle.

• Next would be to remove the head(s).

I cannot believe the Military did not develop a special kit for broken/stuck glow plugs like are available for Duramax/Mercedes. I guess DoD just replaces the engine if one gets broken!?!?!?!?

Trying to get an air hammer to line up with a glow plug in a HumV... Not going to happen IMO.

What I have been reading lately... Jack hammer the whole engine out.

Knock yourself out, CAMO

(not personally directed, guess it's worth a try?)