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Glow plug threads damaged

oilcan

Member
924
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Location
Ohio
I have a 6.2 with one buggered-up glow plug hole. The GP threads in and will stay in place when it's running, but there's too much leakage around the threads for that cylinder to fire properly.

Is there a specific helicoil (or other) kit for this application, or just hunt down the generic 10-1 metric kit?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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Giddings, Texas
Adam,
I have never tried it on glow plugs, but a helicoil like you mentioned should work. They work on high compression gas engine spark plugs with aluminum heads. Is it one you can get to or one you will have to pull the head to even get a drill into? Might as well go with the new head then.
 

oilcan

Member
924
3
18
Location
Ohio
I have a total of 6 engines laying around in various states of repair, so a spare head isn't a problem. The glow plug hole in question is right out there in the open... An easy fix, if the thread repair would hold up to the 400 psi.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
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Try it, what do you have to loose? A bit of time and $30?
 

Jersey4x4

New member
298
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0
Location
Absecon, NJ
I was always told that the threads did not do any sealing, it was the collar on the end of the GP that actually crushed down when torqued properly to make the seal, that is why there is no sealant on the threads. I was also told never to remove a GP and use it over again because of this same issue. The casting may be different in each hole so definitely don't move them from cylinder to cylinder. Of course we have all done this but I guess maybe there is certain situations that a problem will occur. At least that is what we were told at Ohio Diesel Tech. I do have a 6.2 GM engine book and can look in there also but it makes logical sense about the crush factor of the collar.

I have a 6.2 with one buggered-up glow plug hole. The GP threads in and will stay in place when it's running, but there's too much leakage around the threads for that cylinder to fire properly.

Is there a specific helicoil (or other) kit for this application, or just hunt down the generic 10-1 metric kit?
 

Wildmax

New member
22
0
0
Location
Athens, Al
I was always told that the threads did not do any sealing, it was the collar on the end of the GP that actually crushed down when torqued properly to make the seal, that is why there is no sealant on the threads. I was also told never to remove a GP and use it over again because of this same issue. The casting may be different in each hole so definitely don't move them from cylinder to cylinder. Of course we have all done this but I guess maybe there is certain situations that a problem will occur. At least that is what we were told at Ohio Diesel Tech. I do have a 6.2 GM engine book and can look in there also but it makes logical sense about the crush factor of the collar.
My sons GMC Yukon blewout a spark plug yesterday. Doing some research I found this kit for Glowplug thread repair.

++ TIME-SERT Thread Repair ++ Glow plug thread repair M10x1.0 glow plug thread repair M10x1
Time'Sert is the best. I bought one and used it to do a 4.6 mustang spark plug in place. Complete success. The best kit on the market.
 

oilcan

Member
924
3
18
Location
Ohio
I've used the ford spark plug repair kits before. (a LOT of people have!) My dad's "retired" highway truck has blown two spark plugs out in the last year or so. Luckily, it didn't rip the fuel rail open and cause a fire. And still no recall, as far as I've seen.



Ok, so I've decided to replace the head down the road, but figured I'd try a few bubba fixes just for fun.

First off, a guy mentioned pipe dope... Yeah, I thought the same thing, but what could it hurt? Nuthin', that's what. I swabbed the glow plug with the stuff, screwed it in, and let it set for a day. No dice. The stuff is good on plumbing, but not so good for holding engine compression! Now we know, and knowing is half the battle.

Now what's the shadetree mechanic's second best friend? (I couldn't figure out a good way to use #1, duct tape) That's right, it's JB weld. First, I had to clean all the gunk out of the gp hole, then I lightly coated the plug with grease so the epoxy would release when I need to unscrew it. Mix up the goo and blob a thin coat on the threads, then a little thicker around the chamfer where it's supposed to seal in the head. Screw it in until it just barely bottoms out, and let it cure. Once it's good and set up, tighten it down and test fire. BINGO! So far, so good, but I'll need to run it more than I have to see if it holds up.

You know what they say... There's nothing more permanent than a temporary repair.
 

Jersey4x4

New member
298
1
0
Location
Absecon, NJ
With the heat JB weld may burn/power out. if it does I know "Marine Tex" does not. I have used it on exhaust manifolds and it did not burn off and mixes just like JB weld
 

oilcan

Member
924
3
18
Location
Ohio
Marine Tex... I'll keep that in mind. I've put the JB Weld to some high heat before, but not heat and high pressure. We'll see how it holds up soon enough.





On a side note, I used JB Weld and not JB Quick since the original stuff is supposed to be more durable. Just thought I'd put it out there.
 
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