Glow time?

[Screamer27]

I went through and installed all new 070's and then bypassed the resistors, I ran a wire staight from the front battery positive to the hot side of the relay. Now when I key on, I get 12v to all of the glow plugs, and the truck finally starts easily at 5 degrees out. When the wait light goes out thought, i still have 12volts to the glow plugs, The truck fires up, and I still have 12v at the glow plugs. I shut the truck down, came inside, searched for half an hour on here, and then decided to make a post Is this normal, should they go off after the high idle kicks down? Is something else up?

Nate.

 

[twright]

They will stay on until the engine warmes up watch your VM gauge you will see it go down them back up until the glug plugs cut off when the engine gets warm and them the VM Gauge will stay in the green.
AEC Rtired Tony

 

[Screamer27]

Interior volt gauge is dead. I'll just keep an eye on them with dvom on the plugs.
Thanks man.

 

[twright]

That will work do you need a gauge if you do MP me I think I might have one I will check on that and let you know. If you still have the GP control card and it works there is a temp. senting unit that is on the left head that sends a sigle to the card when it is at right temp it cuts the power off to the Glow Plugs,
AEC Retire Tony

 

[K9Vic]

Is yours a converted 12v system since you bypassed the resistors bank?


Not trying to tread steel, but my question is related to the resistor block since we are on the subject.
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My M1010 is a 12v converted system and my resistor bank is connected between the battery and GP relay and I only get about 5-6 volts to the glow plugs (all GPs are band new today). I tried the bypass as I found in the TM and it kept blowing my 40amp in-line fuse right away. Am I using a too low of a fuse, the TM did not say what size to use, or is there something else wrong? If I cycle my ignition 3-4 times the truck fires right up.