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Got my 395's mounted (finally!)

spitfire_pilot

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Perrysburg, Ohio
I don't know about the deuce, but put a set of 44's on a pickup or an excursion in my case and you have to toe in the alignment. The guy's at 4 Wheel Drive Diversified told me they will wander because of the aggressive tread. It worked wonders on my ride. I will be finding out about the deuce this year when I put super singles on her.
 

ivbeenrokd

New member
423
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Location
knoxville, tn.
Looks great!

I currently have 42psi in the front and 36psi in the rear. I'm thinking of going to 40 and 34. Mine drives fine the way it is but the tread isn't wearing perfect.
 

Alredneck

Banned
1,494
15
0
Location
TN
First the sidewalls are way to stiff to notice any movement, Second im not sure what the exact toe specs are but have been a lil toe in actually helps ( talk to the ole timers to verify ) if not the no toe should work ( measure from e the same spot in the front between the two tire then measure the back from same reference points. ( sidewall to sidewall, center to center ) If the back measurement is more than the front than you have toe in, if its the other way you get the picture, turn the draglink to adjust. Third the hubs on the rear can be taken off the studs beaten out and then put back on backwards ( so to speak ) after the studs have been beat back in the right direction. Some say the is a have to, I disagree with thousands of mile on Apoc with out problems. I am going with the run out problem mentioned in my prior post. Reason being is when we use to sale used tires some would have some crazy wear patterns, offroad who care but if you run the roads alot then it will cause extra vibration and wandering. With there a tube being in the way no way to fix it. If you had one piece or combat wheels I would say throw a couple of ounces of Equal ( the tire balancer not the sugar substitute ) in em and try again. Love the Equal in all my mudders.
 

ranchand

New member
140
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Location
Spokane, WA
Deuceman, they grab and float in the mud. I put 15.5xls on miine and there is a 1000% diferrence in the mud. Rear wheel drive is better than stock all wheel. Mine are mounted on 10in rims with no offset and sit flush with the bed (hubs flipped). They do have a bit of "shimmy?" at high speeds but not at all bad and I have hit 50+ with a stock speedo. Pic is before hubs flipped.
 

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jrou111

New member
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Location
Birmingham, AL
Aired up the fronts to 45psi, rears still at 35psi. Went up to the range today. Still wandering all over the road. :(

Going to try 45psi in the back tomorrow. Still haven't checked the toe yet.
BTW, There's about 1-2" of slack in the steering wheel when it's centered. Is that too loose? I wonder if I have all the spacers in the drag link? Which TM has instructions on adjusting it?
 

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jrou111

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Birmingham, AL
Okay, the rear rears were at 40psi, the front rears were at 35psi. :-?

I upped all 4 of the rears to 50psi and the fronts to 55psi. I also tightened the drag link ends as far as I could, and lubed the drag link and tie rod ends real well.

The steering has always had that slack in it and would track straight as an arrow with the NDT's. If the pressure doesn't fix it I may try different tires on the front. I'm hoping in was that low pressure in the front tandem. It felt like the rear was trying to track off in it's own direction.

We'll see.
 

baxter

New member
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Location
salt lake, UT
Mine is 40lbs all around still wanders but my rearend looks all out of wack when I back up axles are all over, wonder if its torque rods or the bearing the rear end pivots on.
 

Haggar

New member
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Location
Oxford, MI
Okay, the rear rears were at 40psi, the front rears were at 35psi. :-?

I upped all 4 of the rears to 50psi and the fronts to 55psi. I also tightened the drag link ends as far as I could, and lubed the drag link and tie rod ends real well.

The steering has always had that slack in it and would track straight as an arrow with the NDT's. If the pressure doesn't fix it I may try different tires on the front. I'm hoping in was that low pressure in the front tandem. It felt like the rear was trying to track off in it's own direction.

We'll see.
Well, you do have the rears on a different path/track than the fronts. Sometimes big tires do like to follow ruts/depressions/crack/etc in the road. I wonder if flipping the hubs and reversing the rims to make the rears track the front would help.

Overall, a good time to go through everything to check if there's slop. Make sure when you are checking your steering components, you have the axle housing on stands to take pressure off. Loose wheel bearings, slop in tie rods, slop in the steering box, improper caster, improper toe-in, runout in the tires, etc, all can be causes. Worn suspension bushings as well.

Did you check the run-out of the tires? Thats easy to do without tools:

jack up the axle and put it on a stand just so its off the ground and can spin freely. Get a cinder block or similar, put it on the ground by the sidewall. Put a dowel, rod, screwdriver, whatever, on the block, so it just barely touches the sidewall, and put another heavy weight to clamp the rod in place. Now spin the tire, and see how much its shimmy-ing side to side. Find your two best tires and put them in the front. (note: I believe you just have a certain amount of sidewall ripple with these tires as well....)
 

tvoss

Member
38
1
8
Location
Chuluota, FL
Please forgive my ignorance, but has anyone flipped the front hubs? Seems like that would give you a wider stance while still having all tires track the same.

Is that just not possible, or really bad for steering or safety? Just curious if this has ever been tried.
 

Kohburn

New member
655
6
0
Location
SOMD
Please forgive my ignorance, but has anyone flipped the front hubs? Seems like that would give you a wider stance while still having all tires track the same.

Is that just not possible, or really bad for steering or safety? Just curious if this has ever been tried.
increased scrub radius is really rough for stearing especially without power stearing.
 

jrou111

New member
699
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Location
Birmingham, AL
Well, you do have the rears on a different path/track than the fronts. Sometimes big tires do like to follow ruts/depressions/crack/etc in the road. I wonder if flipping the hubs and reversing the rims to make the rears track the front would help.

Overall, a good time to go through everything to check if there's slop. Make sure when you are checking your steering components, you have the axle housing on stands to take pressure off. Loose wheel bearings, slop in tie rods, slop in the steering box, improper caster, improper toe-in, runout in the tires, etc, all can be causes. Worn suspension bushings as well.

Did you check the run-out of the tires? Thats easy to do without tools:

jack up the axle and put it on a stand just so its off the ground and can spin freely. Get a cinder block or similar, put it on the ground by the sidewall. Put a dowel, rod, screwdriver, whatever, on the block, so it just barely touches the sidewall, and put another heavy weight to clamp the rod in place. Now spin the tire, and see how much its shimmy-ing side to side. Find your two best tires and put them in the front. (note: I believe you just have a certain amount of sidewall ripple with these tires as well....)
Thanks for the advice. :beer:

I drove the truck to work today. I had the fronts at 55psi and both of the rears at 50psi. The truck was a little more stable, I was able to get it up to 50mph. I did remember that 50mph indicated on the speedo is actually 57mph. So I was able to do 57mph at 2000rpm :driver:

I do have a feeling that flipping the hubs might help.
 

jrou111

New member
699
1
0
Location
Birmingham, AL
Please forgive my ignorance, but has anyone flipped the front hubs? Seems like that would give you a wider stance while still having all tires track the same.

Is that just not possible, or really bad for steering or safety? Just curious if this has ever been tried.
It would hit the fenders when you turned too.
 
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