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Got the old pins and bushings out, how do I get the new bushings in?

Napoleon_Tanerite

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Ok, so you probably remember my thread from a few days ago about replacing the door hinge pins and bushings. Well I ended up just taking the door off by removing the bolts from the door side hinges while leaving the body side hinge piece in place. I made short work of the old pins and bushings, but now I can't get the new bushings in. They're SEVERAL sizes too big for the hole, I'd estimate 1/8" too big. I can't believe I'm supposed to drill the hole out, so what's the trick? A quick whack with the hammer did nothing but bounce the bushing down into the body panel (gotta get the vacuum out when I'm done with this post).

So again I ask for help! This time the TM doesn't help me out.
 

73X

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Just update your old thread instead of starting a new one, too much clutter and fluff already.
Then go get the proper bushings they sound as though they are the wrong ones.
 

Napoleon_Tanerite

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ya, i think i'm in deep doo-doo....i went to change out my door striker... i got it about 3/4" out, then it felt like it broke loose, now it free spins and wiggles. Not sure how to fix this, and the TM doesn't provide any help
 

73X

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If you are talking about the nader pin. the nader pin threads into a square plate that is spot welded to the body.
In the past I have drilled six or so quarter inch holes around the edges and plug welded it back on.
If you do not have a welder or do not want to go that route the only other option I know of is to drill six or eight hols and put in
1/4-20 bolts with fender washers and lock nuts.
 

Napoleon_Tanerite

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ok, cut it open and saw what i broke.... basically there's a sheet metal bracket that holds a T shaped nut that the striker threads into. I broke the bracket loose from the frame. Some beating and welding and it's back in business
 

Napoleon_Tanerite

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Everyone I have fooled with was loose to allow for adjustment. I too am curious as to why the 1009 is not.
the bolt itself IS loose, but it is normally retained in a bracket to keep from falling down into the body when the striker is removed. The bracket has probably 1/4"-1-2" clearance on any side of the bolt to allow the bolt itself to move. What I did was I broke that bracket, thus there was nothing bracing the bolt so I could turn it to get the striker the rest of the way out.
 
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